workaholic

I was looking at that mirror for a while. Then I discovered you can get the overhead console from a ZJ that has all those functions and then not only get 2 interior lights but 4 and get a couple small storage compartments for sunglasses and garage door openers etc. on top of the fact that it would probably run you about $80 or so for everything (based on prices I have seen). Tom PS: I would also be interested in this write-up. Sounds like a slick setup.

Ok so just to make sure I do this right. I should use #2 welding cable to go from the alternator to the battery and then a 4awg to go from the starter to the battery. Use a (in my case I have a 105amp alt instead of the stock 65IIRC) 120amp inline ANL fuse between the alt and the battery. Then for the ground run again a #2 welding wire from the ground on the battery to say the frame under the bed? feerocknok: how did running that ground to under the seat mess up your electronics? Thanks, Tom

How big of an ANL inline fuse should I use? Would linline be best or should I use another method? Thanks, Tom

You didn't have to put an inline circuit breaker or fuse inline or anything? Tom

I would like to relocate the batter from the engine bay to the toolbox on my MJ. does anyone have any links to a writeup on how to relocate the battery? Thanks, Tom

all fixed now! thanks guys!

that fusebox is a 95 on up cherokee fuse box. the one in your truck is under the dash next to the brake pedal on the driver's side. should house all of your fuses. if not there, you need to be taking pictures and posting them here so we can help you out...cause somethin ain't right then! Excellent, found it. Thanks, now if I could only figure out why my taillights won't work. I have turn signals but no reverse lights or taillights. Thanks, Tom

Ok from the Haynes/chiltons manual I should have my fuse block on the pass side fender well inside the engine bay. Well all my MJ has are 3 fuses and a jumble of wires, I have searched all over this rig to try and find a fuse block to no avail. Is that another place that it would be? The MJ is a 1990 pioneer 4wd AW4 column shift longbox. Thanks, Tom

Thanks for the info, I'm there!! can't wait. gonna have to start savin the fundage so I can get some stuff. Now if only I would quite finding these deals on parts to lift my MJ...... Tom

do you know of somewhere I could get info on this swap meet? Truck looks like its coming along nicely, I would love to see some pics of it when you get the it all put back togethor. Tom

The 8.8 in the 2000 ranger and the explorer is the same rear end. The only difference is that the explorer got discs earlier (95) than the ranger. That and the fx4 rangers 8.8 is 31 spline. It should work just great, I would run cuz of what it is then the fact that its free makes it no question. Tom

It would be great to see some pics of how it performs. Cold snap? you're tellin me i'm lookin out my window at 7+in of snow on the ground in WA!! Tom

So since the concencius is that This particular Dana44 is not something I should try and use. What do you all think its worth so I can now sell it? Thanks Tom

So i've started out with a totaly stock drivetrain 1990 MJ longbox, 4.0, AW4, NP231 4x4. Well This truck came stock with a Dana 30/35 diffs. I purchased a Dana 44 out of what I beleive to be a 74+ wagoneer widetrack. This diff measures 63" from outside of drum to outside of drum. Right now it has a 6x5.5 bolt pattern, I would like to convert it to 5x4.5 (So I can still use my set of 5 15x8 black rockcrawlers). I have narrowed down to two possible options. Go widetrack: This would require purchasing a Matching width dana44 front axle and building that as well. Also would require fabricating in order to run coils (I would like to keep the nice ride of coils). In addition this would require a signifcant amount more money to build the other axle as well as largely increased downtime for the jeep. It is currently in bad need of some suspension work (several blown bushings as well as the need for new brakes) . Narrow the Dana44 I already have and go stock width: This was the first thing That I had thought of as it would be less expensive since I would not have to build another axle. As well as I could (possibly) use the drums already on my dana35 and if not then get ones of a xj/mj dana44. This would have a much lesser investment as well as much less downtime for the MJ. Now I'll state my intent with the MJ. I plan to take it out on trips with the local NAXJA crowd and any other wheelin trips that seem appealing. All though I'm NOT hard on any of my vehicles, in that regard i'm a bit of a wus and don't like body damage so it would not be used for rockcrawling or for wheelin in areas that have a high potential for carnage. I know I know, you say then how do you expect to really wheel? well I guess thats just how I am. Scratches, some dents, little things like that i'm fine with but destroyed rocker panels, ripped of gutters etc are not my thing. Anyways, that is currently where I stand on things. If anyone sees any info that is incorrect or has any peices of info or guidance as to what I should do then please by all means post up!! This is my first experience with a 4x4 (typically a BMW guy) so i'm pretty new to this stuff. Thanks Tom

great, thanks for the pics. Is there any particular reason why you chose to weld on the universal TJ shock mounts instead of using the factory ones? and also What exactly is a LSPV and is it something I should be concerned about keeping it? (bit new to the 4x4 world) Thanks Tom