TajMan

THANK YOU! Issue fixed. I took out relays under the hood. Cleaned like 3 of them that had been wet and/or real corroded. Some of them were REAL bad I probably found the terminal, that was coming from other end of corroded brown wire on the ignition switch. Take note for future, IGNITION SWITCH AND IGNITION RELAY People should check connections/clean these before just replacing!

Ok, where do wires from ignition switch go to on the other end? Specifically the rather large brown wire on the larger blue connector that plugs into ignition switch?

Drains battery if I kill engine by stopping coil, but don't disconnect battery. I'd require 2 switches, 1 on ignition coil wire to kill engine, and 1 on battery (with solenoid no doubt) to turn off that power and not drain battery. Not feasible. I need to fix right.

New switch is in there and I'm sure its good. Problem lies elsewhere! My truck is an electrical mess BTW! Problem occurred hit and miss before, seems to be the same now.

REPLACED IGNITION SWITCH, $12 autozone part. 1 of the wires was corroded and connector slightly melted, I thought oh this is the problem for sure. Put in new Duralast switch, fixed connector on the 1 wire. First time I used car, started and turned off correctly right away, I thought yay fixed. Once I got home from AutoZone, turned off key and TRUCK KEPT RUNNING!!! Problem still occurring!!! H E L P !

Thats what I want, fix right, ignition switch then huh.. I already shocked the hell out of myself when I pulled the ignition coil spark plug wire off with my bare hands. I just did an ignition switch on a 95 Camaro and it was HELL, never want to do again. MJ anything like that, steering wheel removal? In this case I almost would just put a kill switch on battery though..

Help me fix newest problem plz. I turn off and take my key out, truck keeps running and brake lights etc on dash stay on! I've had to unplug connector on ignition coil to kill the engine. Lights on dash still drain battery. I replaced my headlight switch last week, but this problem cropped up after.. '87 Comanche Pioneer 4X4 I6 automatic

We're gonna call this one a NAPA bad! New part, started working intermittently then failed completely within a couple thousand miles. New Jeep part fixed :chillin: Also bad on NAPA's computer system, couldn't look me up and replace under warranty from my phone number (like say Autozone's system), I would have had to have original CPS receipt from them. Just means $43, a lot of stress, and a big F U to NAPA... but hopefully she'll be reliable for awhile on me now.

My guess would be "yes." I only buy CPSs from the dealer. It's too critical to take chances on saving a couple of bucks on a part that should last over 100,000 miles, but can leave you thoroughly up the creek without a paddle when it decides to not work. Talked with Jeep dealer, their sensor for $43 was better than Autozone's $44 anyway. Ordering from Denver dealer. Thing is they said the '87 is its own unique unit, unique part number. I know NAPA and other stores had more than 1 option, more than 1 pic, but no REAL way do discern which one was correct besides black or grey connector. I guess its possible I had the wrong one on there anyway. Worked sometimes hmm. My wirings already hacked now right to the 2 ECU pins. I'll get new sensor and solder wires up directly, see if it fixes my issues. Truck outside in the snow to work under, yay. :roll:

Its my birthday, I wish my vehicle would drive. :( Once again Sat. it worked, pulled into garage and worked on front fender flares, pulled out of garage and parked. Sun. it won't start again, still not now. I also tried taking NSS thing off again, got it kind of loose and wiggling around but couldn't get off. Knocked on it a bit and bolted it all back together. Still no-go of course. I guess I just have to know what I HAVE to do/test to go from here. :roll:

Pretty sure its not the NSS, I found that problem and cleaned/fixed that when I got truck running for the first time originally. Unless its possible for a cleaning to be just enough to get running.. but barely good enough to last just 3,000 miles before problem crops up again etc..

After last post, wouldn't work for a long time then 1 day it just started and ran fine. Last night I was driving it. This morning, another COLD morning, it won't start again. HELP! I need to find and fix this so it doesn't break on me when I go somewhere. Its like an electrical issue that causes no spark. Is it possible a CPS from NAPA is a malfunctioning unit that doesn't work when its too cold?

I realize a little diff but I don't think I'll be changing fenders myself

I hear the bottom edge in middle by bumper needs a mount fabricated or something, but the rest fits up.

I did my fix the other day and thought It was good ever since... Then yesterday morning, it had just snowed and truck was out in the cold, it wouldn't start again!! I remembered that some of the times it hadn't started in the past HAD been on very cold days then it worked later when I tried and warmer. 1 thought crossed my mind. That CPS is a new unit I got from NAPA I believe. Is it possible a faulty or weak new sensor could work intermittently or not work sometimes if its too cold/ice somewhere/etc? Its not powered and the sensor only picks up a .5V magnetic fluctuation doesn't it? to me makes since that it would be easy to mess up not getting ECU a good signal advice?