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    Comanche Aficionado

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    santa monica
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  1. good to know. i guess you never know unless you try em. :D
  2. yea, i was going to go with the TRxUS before i got these. all the reviews i read online were horrible. thats why i chose these. i guess they have alot of problems. after what i read i would steer clear of em' off road, i guess they are pretty good. i just have to drive so far on the street to get anywhere to take the chance.
  3. I'm excited, can't wait to get the thing out in the hills. i was told they are 8 1/2" rims. i like skinny the skinny tires. :D rockhound, yea I'm sure they are TSLs. but they are the radial TSLs maybe thats the diff? not sure.
  4. here's mine, hope not to offend.
  5. got some new tsl 32 x 10.5 x 15's today and had em mounted. 4" taller than the tires i had on there and alot more aggresive. :D it was dark when i left there so i couldnt get good pictures, but they will come!! what a difference in at least looks, can't wait to head to the hills
  6. I'm game either way. i have a few more things to get done before i can take the mj on the freeway. then I'm all in. it will be mid feb. before i can get everything done. lets set a date. how does the last weekend in february sound to everyone?
  7. Don't Rusty's arms accept stock bushings? They'll last a LOT longer than polyurethane, because they flex more. I'm not sure. ive got it all put together now with the polyurethane and the little larger bolt. i think it was 7/16" didnt drill anything and fit perfectly. used grade 8. if i had to do over again id go with stock bushings. I'm so disappointed in the rustys stuff. I'm done with em. i wish i had the money to scrap the control arms all together, but right now i need to find a rear axle. ill bet the oval trac bar hole is the culprit to the minor wobble i have. even though the bushing in the track bar is new (rustys) is seems a bit squishy as well. i wonder if a stock bushing fits in there. thanks for the oval hole info. ill take it in as soon as i can.
  8. the past few days working on the truck have been a bit unnerving. ive spent tons of time, but don't feel like I'm getting much done. so there actually is no brake noise. i took the brakes apart many times, used shims, anti rattle clips, new brakes and caliper only to find out it wasnt the brakes at all. i found out by taking the caliper off and zip tying it underneath the truck wrapped in a towel with a socket between the calipers so i would still have my left brake, and drove down the alley. the noise was still there. i should've done that first i guess. so i think at this point my noise is coming from the rear axle. i found yesteday the bearings are shot on the drivers side. that project will have to wait a little bit. so over the holiday i also worked on the control arms. i found that when i brake the lower control arm would move and make a knocking sound (different from what i thought was brake noise) so taking the control arms off. i found the bolt was a little bit small for the bushing. went and got new grade 8 bolts for all control arms. i found that 7/16" (i think thats what the were) fit the bushing alot better and would fit through the frame holes just barely. not sure why rustys don't tell you not to use stock bolts. i also discovered the axle track bar mount hole is oval. i need to figure that out yet. the track bar when torqued to spec moves the bolt back and fourth when i turn the steering wheel. so i didnt quit get as much done over the vacation as i had hoped, but its getting there, very slowly but very surely. i don't think I'm going to do the rear axle wheel bearings. i think ill take it in. i should just dump the d35 with something else. so many projects, so little time. :D

    Happy 2008!!!!

    happy new year everyone! my resolution this year is to get new tires oh wait thats not really a resolution :eek:
  10. :eek: Why would you even consider trashing the FRAME to adapt it to a pair of wasted control arms? That's a pretty backwards approach. The idea is to modify the cheapest, easiest to replace part, not the part that can never be replaced. If you have stock control arms, the bushings are replaceable, and even new stock control arms aren't that expensive from Crown Automotive or Quadratec. If you have aftermarket control arms, must either use stock bushings or rebuildable Johnny joints. IMHO you should fix what's broken, not mess with the frame of the vehicle to avoid buying a $20 part. yea, your right. i get it. I'm fairly new at this wrenching thing, so its good to get put back on track. thanks. so what do i do about a oval tac bar mount hole on the axle?
  11. Yepp. thanks eagle! should i use bigger bolts and just drill out the frame mounts? Which control arms? Upper/Lower? In either case. replace the arm bushings and/or the arms themselves. Do not drill out the frame mounts. p the control arms are rustys and the axle bushings are energy susp. poly (same problem with them) i have the problem with lowers and uppers
  12. Yepp. thanks eagle! should i use bigger bolts and just drill out the frame mounts?
  13. so ive got the d/w under control now, but if i hit the front right tire on a bump i get a little wobble for a few seconds. the only things i have found that are problematic right now are: control arm bushing holes are bigger than the bolts. can this cause wobble? left rear wheel bearings are bad. can this cause wobble?
  14. well the sound was a loose track bar.!!!!! i went over the ball joint over and over. couldnt find anything wrong with them. so i just kept on it and sure enough. the hd bracket was moving just slightly, grabbed a wrench and tightend right up. that helped oodles with the wobble i was having as well. check, then recheck everything!! so i have the brake rattle still. i can tell whats wrong, but just don't feel like fixing it right now. ill have to get a new steering knuckle which means ball joints. ill get to it, ill just be nice to drive for awhile.
  15. did it make alot of noise as well?
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