TNT

Really how is that? brandon for poop like this... i don't know how much wheeling you do or have done, but the seat belts like to lock up all the time and you can't even get a small peek out the window when that happens. with a half door, you can at least get somewhat of a good look out to see what your doing. plus like the others have said, you can see better out of it and its good for hot days (except for the fact that the flat black paint gets HOT on sunny days) yeah i understand about the seat belt thing even though i don't do much off roading. it seems its only a mod for tho's who do more off roading then street driving. The look has started to grow on me tho :D Brandon It is a great mod for summer driving too... as long as it doesn't rain I think he only swaps doors for wheeling. :cheers:

http://www.duplicolor.com :brows:

Your MJ#757 has made good use of the '95 HO AW-4 swap parts, the factory MJ D44 rear axle, the killer front bumper and the ton of other parts I gave you deals on. So how many times has the bumper been used as a battle ram. I slayed a few deer and some good sized trees with it no problem. Thats a great one of a kind bumper I built years ago. I miss it... :( I think it might have earned a name by now. What do you think? :cheers:

You change your plans all the time. Whats new??? :cheers:

When towing a something that is heavier then the tow rig it can get interesting. You'll want to tow use a car trailer with brakes and the proper weight distributing hitch set-up with sway control. Trailer brakes are a must for safety as MJ brakes can't hardly stop itself much less stop when towing a load that is heavier then your tow rig is. As for using a 4cyl MJ I wouldnt do it. A LWB 4.0 with metric-ton springs would be my choice. I wouldn't want to see how bad the tail can wag the dog with a cross wind. I would recommed a 3/4 ton stick shift V8 or a Cummins long box Dodge pick-up. Extended cab models are even nicer for towing.

The end that plugs into the trailer isn't... Unless you have the XJ 5-way connector that has power for back-up lights. Most Cherokee have seperate turnsignals so a converter is used in the trailer harness on them. Just make your own harness. I use a relay for the taillights and brakes/turnsignal since some trailers have a ton of lights. It takes the load off the switches and protects your truck wiring. :thumbsup:

Good black tape is 3M Super 33 plus. It sticks great, works below zero(still sticky and flexable). It is also extra thick and stretches out great. It also stays wrapped unless your hands are dirty or real sweaty. ;) Use heat shrink that has hot glue inside that creates a weatherproof seal. I bought a bag of it from Mopar years ago. I have found is in a few other sizes to fit from 20 gauge wire to 2/0 wire. :brows: :cheers:

So are you going to pad the top and insde edge for comfort and safety? You could run padding up the rear edge to protect your elbow too. ;) A cup holder could be mounted in the forward angle area cut in door still. :cheers: I really like it. My plans that also include plating the outside of the door. :brows:

Drive exactly the speed limit or slightly below to make a few more dollars for the last three weeks. Maybe get lost once a week or so too. They can track your speed and acceleration, so remember that too. Schnieder truckers found you can also block its signal so they can disappear at times for a few minutes or hours as needed. They block the transmiter but I forget how.

I have a flanger if you ever need to use one at some point(think cowl hood). I also have a couple of extra doors if you need them. If I ever finish my MJ I'll need to find another decent pair of 2dr XJ doors to make myself a pair. With the longer 2dr XJ window openings/extended cab I would like to try to keep the wing windows an inside handle of some sort, mirrors and some speakers. I also plan to add a deep cup holder that is insulated. It would need to fit my BPE free water bottle that has a great cover that will keep the dust out. The marine store has some I like. :brows:

Nice job, it looks good. :cheers: I would like to see it in person. :D

Put those lights on front bumper or guard and mount some flood lights upside down for backing up. Trees just love to tear off lights pounted on top of the roll bar and the glare on the hood can be an issue. Thats just my thoughts about it. :cheers:

The one thing I see in some of the flex photos is they can't steer lock to lock without rubbing. What good is that??? :shake: Here is a couple pictures of old pics of my XJ with 5" of lift 33/10.50x15's and cut fenders. It had 11.7" travel shocks and it maxed them out on extention. The shock under compression has 3/8" of travel left with the bumpstop fully compressed. It could steer from lock to lock without any rubbing when fully flexed. :thumbsup: Full stuff Close up of clearance and raised flare Full extention Ride height Link to the write-up http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/TPfenderFlares/FenderFlares.htm

The front HP44 from a 1972-1977 F-150 has weld on mounts with 1/2" thick axle tubes. Cast mounts started in 1978. Only the 1977 F-150 has disc brakes and the good axle tubes. All the above have a 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern. That is the axle of chose IMO. 1978-1979 F-150 Camper Specials have F-250 leaf spring housings with the 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern. The F-250's all have the 8 on 6.5". Keep what rims and tire sizes you have in mind when chosing. F-250 and Camper Special axles have a cast leaf spring mount built in that can interfere with the XJ/MJ LCA mounts and XJ/MJ spring mounts pads. Here is a good link for you. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/JAfrontD44arb/FrontD44arb.htm

If you put a bottle sized neoprene can cooler on it makes long necks fit and stay cold. They also work great for protecting the finish and keeping aluminum BPFE free water bottles cold.