carnuck

A 6 speed with 2 overdrives is needed. I got clocked in my otherwise bone stock '87 MJ with 33" transport tires (no longer available) 3.08 gears and wound up to 3100 RPM in 5th gear at 140 mph (Old Airport runway) I drove the truck this way to and from work for 8 months (S. Seattle to Poulsbo, WA) with an average of 22 mpg. '87 has a great bottom end cam to accomplish this. It would take me about $3500 in parts to push my truck past 150 mph. (without stroking it even) I could have more fun if I took a 232 and 4.0L to build a different configuration.

Sounds like the tcase needs an oil change. My driveway is 2 miles long and qualifies as a class 2 trail in winter (I even managed to roll my '73 J4000 when I had to swerve to miss a horse in the middle of the road. This was at 11PM at night on a downhill switchback above Sunset falls on the Skykomish river in Wa. Just across the river from Reiter Trails )

I found the vacuum motor for these axles is still available brand new at my work (NAPA)

There are 2 plugs on the AX-5. The fill is on one side for 4x4 and on the other for 4x2. This trans was originally designed for Toyota Corollas, Coronas and pickups.

I'm going to the '91 up performance rotors (requires upgrading my axle knuckles and calipers at the same time)

If you have your heart set on a stronger trans, finding a Dakota with the 2.5L will get you the bellhousing and flywheel needed (probably starter too since it's an '86)

I put V8 springs in the front of my '86 4 cyl MJ and got nearly 3" of lift (rode like a buckboard off road too!) That's the one I have for sale right now BTW.

YJ in front works well with my 6" lift. An '88 Dodge B series van gets you 25" for a rear hose.

$2.39 here in Seattle

Make sure the crank pilot hole is the size you think it is. Jeep changed the size @'91.

Having dealt with and gotten rid of death wobble, it's a combo of a couple things. Lifting the Jeep changes the caster angle AND changes toe-in towards toe-out. Any play in the tracbar will increase the vibes. Power steering also adds to it. I had to take my PS belt off my '86 when I came back from Ouray to stop it from wobbling so bad I couldn't control it. (the wobble makes the steering column twist slightly, which reacts like turning the wheel the opposite way. The harmonics then make it go back past center, so then the steering box reverses the pressure to the opposite way and it picks up speed till the wobble gets out of control. Ever pushed a shopping cart with the wobbly front wheels? Same process to fix. I took out the spacers on the back of the lower arms (at the frame) to put it back closer to OEM caster and adjusted for more toe-in. Wobble disappeared. My '87 is lifted 5.5" and I put in lower arms, coils, YJ hoses, an adjustable tracbar and only adjusted toe-in. (need to do a camber adjust/alignment after I get it back on the road)

Franco: And now my friend, the first-a rule of Italian driving. [Franco rips off his rear-view mirror and throws it out of the car] Franco: What's-a behind me is not important.

Hello? If it only lasts a year, you'll be buying a new one! It's called planned obsolescence (if you call their phone line, most will tell you to use the better fuel) Fuel is also different over the past few years. Used to be that was enough. We supply a lot of small engine repair shops and they are experiencing major problems with all the small engines due to oil changes and fuel changes.

I got some super bumper from a military rig (it may end up on my '51 Willys instead. We'll see) Found these links (without trying hard) http://www.hitchestogo.com/Jeep_Hitches.htm http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007VNZMM?smi ... nkCode=asn

Like I said, you gotta watch what you do so you DON'T get carried away!

235/75/15 = 28.8" tall. http://4lo.com for calculators

yup. Almost anything will work

premium gas and racing oil (it still has zinc)

You probably accidentally unplugged the CPS on the driver's side.

You can swap to external slave very easily with a couple parts. I got a shift pivot ball from the "Help!" section (not sure if it was NAPA or CSK Schmucks) and drilled the hole in the bell where the OEM ball sat in my other trans, then used the arm and slave with the spacer sleeve from an '86 to make it work 9and it still works! My son's GF drives it every day)

Check the lines just before the rear brake hose for rot out. Mine was broken and I had $#!++y front brakes only for almost a year! The second line that goes back to the front gets air in it and keeps you from being able to bleed all the air out unless you open it at the front valve. (I had EXCELLENT brakes after that till I lifted my Jeep)

D30 was used '68 to '73 with closed knuckle 5 on 5 1/2" and drum brakes. The pumpkin is on the wrong side for an MJ swap. You want '80 or newer FSJ axles (preferably NOT from a Jeep pickup or wide track 2 dr '80 to '83) If you read some of that stuff on the IFSJA site, especially old or current posts on the yahoogroups or http://offroad.com (AKA ORC) sites going back to '97, you'll see Carnuck in a lot of posts.

Mine was caused by a bent clutch pedal arm. They twist sideways (and my son's even broke off!)

Ditto on the relief valve. I could see the filter if it was a Fram, but Napa Gold (AKA WIX) have a bypass valve.

My 2wd yoke for the BA 10/5 didn't fit the NP242 I put in.