schardein

I have an NV3550 in my CJ. I had an XJ one in it, then when I swapped in a Chevy 5.3, I used a TJ one. As already stated, I think the t-case clocking is different. The shifter stub (on the trans shift tower) for the XJ has a slight "s" curve to it, which moves it backwards slightly. It is square, and the shifter lever has a female end that slips over it and is secured by a set screw. The TJ shifter stub is straight, and is a round with a flat on one side. It also has a threaded hole going straight in the middle. The shifter stick has a rubber isolated piece on the bottom that slides onto the stub, and a torx head bolt goes straight in securing it to the shifter stub. The stick is actually welded to the steel encased rubber isolator. First pic is shows the shift tower with curved stub, and non-isolated stick. Second pic shows rubber isolated stick. Random pics from google. I didn't try it, but I bet you could swap shift towers if one worked better than the other for swap purposes.

Last pick-a-part run, I got a blower motor resistor pack from a Chevy express van. It uses a weather sealed connector, and incorporates a relay that engages on the "high" setting to route power directly to the fan motor. It also has 4 speeds. I plan to experiment a little to see if I can retrofit it in my CJ. The main issue I see, is the mounting tabs sit on a stand off (or boss) in the oem application, and not flush like the CJ. Overcome that and it's just splicing some wires.

In my open CJ7, I've had some pretty bad rust form on the terminals of the blower resistor pack. I've thought it would be good to find one that uses a waterproof connection, like most modern sealed connectors. So far I haven't found anything.

Only thing I could suggest is getting boxes from a store that sells rims and tires... you know, boxes designed for rims... of course these days 15" rims are probably kind of rare in aftermarket shops I suppose.

I have one, don't remember which side, but the studs are broken off. If interested I can get pics.

The blue module is the "chime" module to remind you to turn off your headlights. The silver box is the headlight delay relay. It won't turn your headlights off for you, you still have to manually shut them off. The two can be used independently of each other.

Reminds me of the book "The Ugly American", where the protagonist helps the local populace by converting old Jeep engines into bicycle driven water pumps to irrigate their crops.

Search "jeep cherokee outer stub" on eBay Literally the first thing to come up, $57.28 w/ free shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/OUTER-AXLE-SPINDLE-STUB-SHAFT-XJ-YJ-TJ-JEEP-1986-2006-DANA-30-OR-44/361489244711?fits=Model%3ACherokee|Make%3AJeep&epid=239504363&hash=item542a702227:g:BQ0AAOSwv-NWUPIx Rockauto has a a genuine Dana/Spicer for $43.89 plus shipping https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1991,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180055,drivetrain,stub+axle,11615

Those parts are not a part of the center console or its installation.

OK, someone correct me if I am wrong, but this is a standard bucket seat install, using correct era bucket seats, and MJ seat bases removed from a bench seat. The XJ/MJ bucket seats (with the rounded bottom frame) are all the same, regardless if they came from a XJ with rocker seat bases. A caveat to that is MJ/2dr XJ bucket seats have the flip forward feature. (and some differences in upholstery, headrest style, but not in seat frame design) On XJ "rocker" style seat bases, the added "rocker track" on the rocker seat bases make the seat base taller, but that is compensated for by the mounting brackets themselves being correspondingly shorter. Since MJs never had "rocker" type seat bases, there are no shorter brackets available, and adding the rocker track would make the seat sit noticeably, probably uncomfortably, higher. I'm only pointing this out, because I thought this thread was about adding rocker seat bases to an MJ (my mistake).

Thanks for sharing. Great pics. I now want to visit myself. I'll take the M38A1-M416-M2 combo, please.

I've used Alpine 4x6 speakers in the rear location of my MJ and 2001 Silverado. It is the stock size for both. They were relatively inexpensive compared to other brands of similar quality, and sound good with small amp (in the MJ) and a larger amp (in the Chevy). Obviously, the small speaker won't do much, but it rounds out the sound. I have Alpine 5.25 in the doors. Small Alpine amp and Kenwood HU. No subwoofer. Bass really suffers, but I hesitate to add one because my interior is in pretty good shape and I don't want to modify it. XJs with the factory Jensen Accusound stereo system had factory tweeters mounted behind the grills on either end of the kick panel. I don't know if MJs ever had them, but they could be retrofitted.

I agree. I wish the led light bar craze would end. I think some good old fashioned round KC spotlights would go best with our vintage MJs. I see you have modernized the look of yours (97+ front end, 97+ mirrors...) so perhaps a modern looking light would "match". I wouldn't spend a bunch of money on lights I would never/hardly ever use. As a guy who had the four KC spotlights on his 78 K20 back in high school, I can say they didn't get much use. But they looked cool. If you do a lot of night wheeling, then disregard my opinion. If I was to find myself with a truck & roll bar mounted lights again, I think I would control them off an old fashioned foot dimmer switch, so I could use them on the country roads I drive, and turn them off quickly for oncoming traffic.

I am looking at your pictures and want to clarify something. Did you remove the rocker part of the seat base to install the seats in your Comanche? If I am looking at the pictures right, I only see the "forward-backward" seat track, and not the "rocking" seat track. And your comment says "all rocker mechanism removed". If the rocker mechanism is removed, this is a standard bucket seat installation in an MJ. Am I missing something?

If you have the factory XJ/MJ center console, maybe something like this is an option:

Interesting. I've got a set of the rockers in my XJ, and a spare set for the MJ, but after looking at them decided it just wouldn't work. Guess I need to take another look at it!

I just did this on my XJ. Drilled them out and used 6mm bolts (the common ones that use a 10mm socket). Find a 99+ Chevy truck or tahoe in the junkyard with the door panels removed, and you will find a bunch of these bolts/nuts in the doors. If doing it again, I would put a small tack weld on each one so I didn't have to fight the inner fender liner to get a wrench on the back of them when tightening the nut.

SEM is great stuff. Burgundy is a match for the cordovan. Very early XJs had a red interior option (sometimes called "porno red"). I think it was still an option in 86?

As Pete knows, the factory bumper on my 91 does not have the surround trim.

Shipping isn't cheap, unless the package is under 16 ounces and can go USPS 1st class. Then it's pretty reasonable. Priority mail is expensive. If you have a really heavy part and can fit it in a Priority Mail flat rate box, it can be a relatively good deal. I think the boxes have gotten smaller over the years. I remember mailing a Dana 44 power lock differential in a flat rate box, from Hawaii to the mainland, when flat rate boxes first came out. The postal worker said it was the biggest savings (versus regular priority) that he had ever calculated at the time. I sell on ebay, and most of the stuff can go in a padded envelope and be sent 1st class. Even though eBay and PayPal fees add up (about 30% of total sales), there is the convenience of printing 1st class postage right off the internet and sticking it in the mail box for the postman to pick up. Years ago that was possible straight off the USPS website. Currently, you can only do Priority mail online on the USPS website, you must go to the post office to mail a 1st class package. It's a PITA. I suspect it's that way because people were abusing it (trying to send packages, claiming they weighed less than they actually did), but that's just a guess. With an accurate scale (accurate to .25 ounce), I've found I can calculate a price on the USPS website, and it will be the same at my local post office. The nice thing is it is a very small rural post office, just a mile and half down the road, and never a line. I don't miss living in town and standing in line at the bigger post offices. If you start selling more, you will find that shipping materials add up also: boxes, padded envelopes, bubble wrap, paper padding, printer paper, printer ink, packaging tape, ziplock bags... Free shipping isn't free, it's always factored into the cost of the item.

Saw this one at college (Automotive Technology) Fill the bottle with trans fluid. Run the hose to a vacuum fitting on the base of the carb. Hit the button get the biggest smoke screen you've ever seen.

I've passed on those mirrors in the junkyard because of that same issue, it seems as if the pivot points on the body are locked up. I assume they moved when new.

I think the piece that actually holds the tire/wheel assembly can be sourced from any vehicle with an under body tire mount, as others have said. Understand that you want an original, hope you find one. Bigger question (in my mind) is once you have that piece (original or not), how do retain it on the old cable? First post says you have nothing but a frayed end.

I didn't realize this was a high school parking lot. Getting physical was probably bad advice. That's how we handled things when I was in HS, but that was before social media. We live in a different world now. I don't have children, so I have no idea how this works these days, but I suspect if you report it to the school, they may make some kind of announcement to the student body, if there is a trend of this type of thing? Back in my day, the principle would have talked to us, but not involved local law except as a last resort. These days they would probably go straight to local PD.

Cool low buck rig with some not-so-low buck parts. I used to mud race when I was younger, but not in a dedicated rig. Ran my K5 Blazer, with a 350 for a while, and later a 454. Tough to be competitive in a daily driver, but I won my class on occasions. A hood and some type of cover over the rear would be nice before mud racing. And hopefully there are windows in those doors haha. HP, big tires, and wheel speed work in the mud. I never would have considered a doubler, I thought the standard low range in the 205 was enough reduction.