schardein

I see, this design supersedes the old one. This definitely wouldn't work with a tow hook. I can't recall ever seeing one of these.

As you probably know, the longest one is for the hidden winch. The second set of bolt holes allow the bumper to mounted further forward. Any factory brackets I've seen 85-96 have been that style. The shorter one, I want to say I've seen those on a 97-01 XJ. Perhaps they shortened it and the hidden winch wasn't an option in those years? It's odd that the bumper bracket isn't welded to it. Ive never seen one that didn't have the bumper bracket welded to it. I've got a set of brackets that the bumper brackets are pretty bent up, my plan was to one day cut them off and get new ones. Not sure why the factory chose to weld the bumper brackets to the tow hook brackets, doesn't add any strength or support to the tow hook as far as I can tell. The shortest one I've never seen or heard of before.

Cool! Can you post a pic? I wonder if they stick down far enough so if they were put to use, would the strap clear the air dam, or screw it up?

You find some interesting things looking through the factory parts manuals. Has anyone ever seen these "towing eyes" on an XJ or MJ? I wonder if they were instead of, or in addition to the tow hooks?

So the crank was worn, and not the bearing? Is that a common 4.0 thing?

Awesome scores! It's been a while since I've seen a good early XJ or MJ in my local yards. In my experience, those XJ fuel skids are rare.

Rockauto isn't showing the Dorman brand for a harmonic balancer. Went with the Dayco that Jeep Driver mentioned. Also added this installer to the order: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8760876&jsn=357

I was writing this as you posted: My XJ is an auto. Even with the radiator out, I didn't have room to get my Dewalt cordless impact in to break loose the harmonic balancer bolt. I found it much easier to go ahead and remove the front bumper. Had a puller on hand to get the balancer off. Now to source parts, I did plan on doing the seal at the same time. On a separate note, I don't know what the spec is for crankshaft thrust bearing clearance on a 4.0, but after removing the bolt I grabbed the balancer with my hands and gave it a good tug. I was surprised when it moved noticeably. I thought maybe it was loose on the crank, but turns out the whole crank is moving in and out. Quite a bit, haha, like an 1/8 of an inch. The engine has 238,516 miles, and runs great.

Good info. I can't picture the slinger. I assume the belt failure would be due to the damper being out of plane (alignment) with the rest of the belt system? Yes on the age related failure, but a late WJ would still be 13 years newer than my 91 XJ (but still 16 years old haha). But yeah, at this price level, new is the only thing that makes sense. I think I have a crank pulley puller, if not I will buy one and add it to the collection. As it turns out, the radiator is already out, so there's some good news.

About a month ago, I started noticing a "tinging" sound from the engine upon startup. It didn't go away, and increased with engine speed. It sounded like something was hitting the mechanical fan. I looked with the engine running, but couldn't see anything. It still ran fine, so I drove it. About two weeks ago my radiator sprung a leak. I put some stop leak in it to stop a small leak back when I bought it in 2013, so I wasn't really surprised, and figured it was time to just go ahead and replace the radiator. That project is still underway, because I found the source of the noise. The rubber inside the harmonic balancer has started bulging out, just enough to contact the tip of the mechanical fan. I'm an experienced mechanic, but I can't recall ever changing a harmonic balancer on a Jeep 4.0. Does anyone have any pointers from previous experience? Rockauto prices range from $27-$51, or would I be better off with a oem used one ($21 w/ $2 core)? EDIT: This is on my 91 XJ.

Great write up. Here is a junkyard source for the connector:

I used this set off ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Seat-Heater-Kit-Carbon-Fiber-Universal-Heated-Cushion-Warmer-2-level-5-level/253250702661?hash=item3af6eb0d45:m:mXIrGvHoOIac5B-1Oe9G0IA I bought mine 4 years ago. The listing has changed since then. Mine uses a round button, has 2 heat levels, and has a pad for the seat base and seat back for two seats. I put them in the aftermarket seats in my CJ-7 and they work really well.

The radiator in my 91 XJ developed a leak in the core tubes near the top of the core. Before ordering a new one, I made a trip to the local u-pull-it and scored an aftermarket aluminum radiator. Problem is, the stock upper trans cooler fitting doesn't match the threads in the radiator. Has anyone dealt with this before? The ports were open when I pulled the radiator, the XJ I pulled it from was running an external aftermarket trans cooler. Also, can the lower fitting be removed from the stock radiator? Any help is appreciated.

The SEM camel was a perfect match for the interior of my 79 K5 Blazer. When I repainted my center console, the only way I could tell where was painted is it didn't have any chips. In this pic the door panels and dash pad have just been repainted and installed.

128393442105763647 Good till 22 March 2020

Free place to spend the night in zip 65570 if that helps.

The shift pattern for a 231J should be (front to back) 2wd--4wd high--Neutral--4wd low.

Help Comanche Club help you- add you vehicle information to your signature line. If you suspect your vehicle has mismatched parts, it might be best to pull the transfer case and verify spline count before going looking for a replacement. So no issues in 2wd? When you say slips, does it pop out of gear? A linkage adjustment can sometimes fix that.

Have you confirmed trans fluid level is correct?

I did my monthly junkyard run today and made a great discovery. While looking at the engine compartment of a Cadillac CTS, I found the same connector that is used on the taillight harness on my 91 MJ. I think it will be correct for 87-91 MJ. This will provide a cheap source for a replacement connector, or to make a plug-and-play trailer wiring harness that doesn't require cutting and splicing the factory harness. The Cadillac application has some wires in different locations than the MJ, so it will require unpinning some wires and moving them to the proper place. This one came from a 2003 CTS, but I suspect many early to mid 2000s models like the CTS, DTS, and STS may use the connector also (disclaimer: I am not a Cadillac expert). Included is a picture of where the connector is located. It required a 10mm (socket size) bolt to be removed from a retaining bracket before clipping it out of the harness. Additional previous discussion on this topic is located here:

This would have been about 3 years ago, I think. I didn't find a lot of Jeeps, but I did find a 91 XJ with a column shifter and the 120mph "police" cluster. Since I flew in, all I had a was couple screwdrivers and a 1/4" set, or I would have pulled the column also. Best I can remember, this was the Pull-N-Save in Glendale.

WOW. Beats my method of unscrewing the cap and pouring straight out.

My place is always open if the route brings you this way again. I trailered my CJ out to Tahoe last year and did the Rubicon Trail. Great junkyards in Denver, Salt Lake City, and Reno. I've also explored several good ones in the Phoenix area on a different trip.

The part number 56000032, when searched on Rockauto, brought up that WVE brand part. But I am not 100% sure it is correct. I will get pictures of mine today and maybe we can determine how to tell the difference by looking at pictures. If I ever get around to installing mine, I will document it. Because it was a pain to get it out. I hope anyone else who does the swap would document it. I've already added the delay box behind the kick panel, and swapped the stalk to delay type, just need to add the switch.

How much? Rockauto- $140.79 https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wve,1S4795,wiper+/+washer+switch,4856