schardein

I disagree here. In my first post I describe doing exactly this. The adjustable valve gave me the ability to further reduce what the stock valve was already doing. But since the OP is starting from scratch, this might be the best solution: https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd?itemno=260-11179

Thanks Eagle, i always forget about the rear prop valve.

Do a search on here, and you will find many threads on this topic. Some quick points: 1. XJ 4 door seats do not flip forward, if that matters to you. 2 door XJ and MJ buckets do flip forward. 2. XJ and MJ floor brackets are different. You will need MJ seat brackets, or cut the brackets off your bench seat. 3. Later XJs, the seats changed, around 94 the front bolts go in horizontally. They don't bolt on to the MJ seat bases. Good luck!

Since you have a custom set up, I'll say two things: The stock prop valve (or more properly, combination valve) is nice because it incorporates a brake warning light if either the front or rear circuit develops a leak. I would consider replacing your adjustable prop valve if it is seized. I've done several disc brake conversions, but the first was on a 79 K5 Blazer with 3/4 ton axles, Chevy 14 bolt in the rear. I used an adjustable prop valve AFTER the stock combination valve. There was a coupling in the brake line half way back along the frame that was a perfect place to put it. It was there so the same front line could be used on all the trucks, but different rear line depending on wheelbase (Blazer, long bed, short bed, suburban). Most of the aftermarket adjustable prop valves can reduce braking pressure up to 66%. I had to turn that adjustable prop valve almost ALL the way down to even out the braking effort. That's how effective the new disc brake setup was. By retaining the factory combination valve, I still had a warning light, with no detriment to braking ability. Best place to test is a straight gravel road with a slight downward grade. Get going about 15-20 mph and hit the brakes. If the rear locks up first, it will try to slide around. Be ready. Then adjust the pressure to the rear down until the front locks up just before the rear, and the rear doesn't try to swing around.

It's a temp spare.

Yes to all this. Not so much my MJ, but I've contemplated custom building the entire wiring harness on my CJ using modern sealed connectors. With the 5.3 LS conversion, every connection I added or modified got a modern type sealed connector, so it's mostly done.

I have 4 that are original to my 91 XJ. But they are pretty rough. The tires have a little life left in them, but when they are replaced I'll be putting the Turbines on it and the 5 stars will be for sale. Whatever walmart used as lubrication to mount the tires stained the wheels.

Last week I picked up the original Saginaw steering gear from my 1983 CJ-7 after having it rebuilt by Marty at http://www.powersteering.com This is the second box I've had done there. In both cases, he replaced the original slow ratio internals with a faster 16-13 variable ratio. Improved the steering feel in my old CJ. I haven't shopped rebuilt steering box prices, so can't say if this is competitively priced. I feel like aftermarket boxes, you don't know what you are going to get. I've recently been reading up on steering gears, here is an interesting article that is recent: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/additional-tech/1904-we-test-four-different-ratio-saginaw-power-steering-boxes

I do a lot of wiring work, and will save this as a resource, but... wish they included oem part numbers. Search function is practically useless. From my limited browsing, prices are ridiculous. $28 for 10 terminals, $100 for a connector? No.

These are my least favorite oem aluminum wheel, perhaps because mine are pretty worn looking. They do look nice when in good shape. I plan to replace mine with refurbished 10 spokes eventually.

Good to know. In the event they don't want it back, I'll be able to pass it along to someone who can use it.

Exactly... but even so, I've never heard of repairing a cable by replacing the core. Thanks for the heads up. Will check this tomorrow.

That's an impressive recovery. I've done a few myself.

Somewhere in here there is a thread where Hornbrod did his, and if I recall correctly, that is how he did his.

I had the same questions you did. I eventually found some pics on the internet. I cut my own, trying to minimize the size to only what was required. I swear I took pics while doing it, but I can't find them. So I took some just now of the finished install. From what I recall, the factory cuts aren't anything fancy. Do you have the angle pieces to replace the clip nuts? I hate those darn clip nuts, they can make removing the bumper a nightmare when the break.

I ordered two new parking brake cables for my MJ D44, Raybestos part number RAY94370. When received, I inspected the parts. One is a complete cable assembly that looks right. The other... looks to be the core only, with the swaged on metal ends. Which would be impossible to place in an old cable sheath, because the ends are swaged on, and I've never heard of repairing a parking brake cable in that manner anyway. Went through the online return/report a problem procedure, and end result was they are shipping me another part at no extra charge. There was a message asking that I hold onto the defective part for two weeks, as they may ask that I send it back. The procedure was simple and took 5 minutes. I recently had to return another part, where I ordered the wrong part. I paid return shipping, which was fair, and was issued a store credit. The whole process only took a week. So at this point I'm fairly confident this will have a successful outcome. I'm just glad I checked and found the problem. I easily could have let the parts sit until I was ready to use them, only to find the problem after the return period had expired (30 days).

Now that's good info, thanks. That knuckle in the eBay listing doesn't even have the bolt on caliper mount.

I don't want to beat a dead horse, but several commenting here are correct, it's a bad idea to use a press for driveshaft and axle shaft bearings. Vise or large c clamp will work, give you a better feel for what you are doing and much less likely to damage parts. I learned this the hard way myself. It's hard to make a good call from a picture, but I think I would replace that shaft with the damaged yoke. A complete set of aftermarket shafts are expensive, and may be overkill for your use. If you are on a tight budget, I would do a search for a used part on ebay. You may find different casting numbers, but as long as the part is from the same or a compatible application, you should be good.

Thanks, but: Cost= No Unnecessary level of performance for my use= No Minimum 16" wheel required= No

I am working towards converting my 1991 2wd MJ to 4wd. I have a factory D44 rear, 4wd AW4 trans, 231 and 242 cases (plan to use the 242), and a 1985 XJ Dana 30. Plan is to have 3.73 gears and 30" or 31" tires. The Dana 30 is high pinion, non disconnect, factory 3.73 gears. I have XJ 1996 shafts and unit bearings to go in it. My question is the knuckles. They are two piece, see picture. Initially, my plan was to use "1991" parts so that down the road, when it came to to replace rotors or brake pads, I could use "stock" parts. I do have a 1993 XJ D30 I could rob the knuckles off of. Either way, the axle will get new ball joints, rotors, calipers, and pads. Are there pros/cons to retaining the early knuckle with bolt on caliper mounts, other than it won't use "factory 1991" parts?

In my off road Jeep, I've bashed/smashed/broken enough auxiliary lights that I don't even bother with them anymore. I installed some good headlights, fed them operating voltage through relays, and called it done. I've never broken a headlight, although I did have some H4 housings develop rust inside after being submerged under water that eventually required replacing. I run old school halogen Hella 550 driving lights on my Chevy, XJ, and MJ. They produce some extra light to help, is about the best I can say about them. But again, I installed the Xtravision headlights in the XJ and MJ, and they do ok. I have hid bulbs in the low beams of the Chevy and they do great. Moral of the story is I made a decision a long time ago to only spend money, whether it's a lot or a little, on aux lights after I upgraded my headlights.

There are "blank" plugs to fill the hole on the right of that lower one. I have found both those styles in stock MJs. I amy have an extra plug, would have to look.

I deleted the valve on both my XJ and MJ. Later, I completely went through my AC, but was underwhelmed with the results (on both). They do ok on max setting. I agree that an additional 7 degree reduction is significant.