schardein

I served as a United States Marine for 30 years. I've handled the M16A2, and later the M16A4, and finally the M4 (among others) as my service weapon in training and in combat. Some may find it interesting that none of these weapons were full automatic, or "machine guns". The third setting was a 3 round burst- one trigger pull = 3 rounds down range. So you have safe, semi-auto, and 3 round burst. The idea was to provide a weapon capable of laying down a good volume of cover fire, but not full automatic so as to prevent wasting ammunition. Anyone who points out the civilian equivalent (AR-15) as a weapon that is somehow inherently evil is displaying ignorance. In fact, the AR-15 is easy to handle, even for woman and children. They can be fired by left or right handed people. Try that with the stereotypical bolt action "hunting rifle", most of which are expressly designed for right handed individuals. They can be very accurate right out of the box, and can be made HIGHLY accurate with a little bit of work. The design lends itself to modification, and many owners do that so the firearm better serves their needs, or simply their wants. These days they are available in different calibers, making them even more useful for different applications. I've done extensive marksmanship training while in the Marine Corps with a semi-auto only version of the M16, modified for accuracy, routinely engaging targets out to 1000 yards effectively. Does anyone else see a correlation with the characteristics that make Jeeps so popular? The 2nd amendment is about we the people having the right to protect ourselves from tyranny. Plain and simple. Anyone trying to take away that right can name reason after reason, but the truth is that they are trying to disarm and enslave the people. Anyone who can't see that is either ignorant, or letting fear influence their thoughts (I don't want to protect myself, someone else should do it for me). The extension of that thought process is "since I don't want it, no one else should have it either- it wouldn't be fair". That's why you have so many screaming for gun control, instead of simply saying, "I'm not interested in owning a firearm, but others can and should exercise their right to bear arms". Keep in mind that every politician that advocates for gun control, is protected by... men with guns.

When you're using a 3/4" drive breaker with cheater pipe, and it finally starts to move... But you notice there's no sound of a nut turning on rusty threads... At least it's off.

Here is some info:

I think it looks ok. Especially given that the color is pretty close to the powder coat finish on my wheels. Not sure they would look as good on a wheel with a factory finish. After taking the picture, I wondered how it would look if the center cap was painted black (or color match the truck, or whatever), mask off the center "Jeep" part and leave it silver, and then use chrome lug nuts. There could be a lot of variations there, black lug nuts for example, to get different looks. I don't think they look better than the originals, but maybe that's because I think the Turbines are the best looking OEM wheel for 86-06 Jeeps. Also, to run those center caps, I think even though it is a firm close fit, that would need the mounting screw holes drilled and possibly countersunk on the back to be permanently mounted. I don't think it would be hard, and an advantage that they couldn't fall off like the originals, and also you could remove the lugs (and wheel/tire assembly) without popping off the center cap.

This sparked my curiosity, so I went out to the workshop and did some tests. The two center caps on the right didn't fit, but the one on the wheel fit almost like it was meant to be there.

If you can't find a factory unit, you might try buying an aftermarket 12v buzzer. You only need two wires, crimp male spade terminals on them and insert into the proper openings in the plug where the factory unit would go. See blue buzzer in picture, positive to the lower left (headlight on input +), and negative to lower right (door switch input -). You would need to determine the corresponding holes in the plug, but that shouldn't be to difficult.

I bought a pair of these back in Dec. Great price. https://teamcherokee.com/26-spline-u-bolt-style-pinion-yoke-cj-1972-1986/

Good find. Nice to know there is a source, but seems expensive.

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No idea if this is even close to what you are looking for, but... I have a PDF of an old Bosch Relay Guide with over 40 pages of relay diagrams.

I had one of those in an 89 XJ Wagoneer. Gave me issue after issue. Intermittent work/non-work (ground, internal connections) and then the rewind mechanism started acting up. Ended up discarding it. I've thought of retrofitting one of the 90s GM truck lights which are similar, but have a manual switch and manual rewind less prone to failure.

Exactly, thank you. Hmm, I'll have to research some of the newer XJs on my next JY trip. Thank you, I thought it might be an asphalt based product, but don't have any background knowledge on that. This is helpful. I've kept the one in the picture on my XJ simply because it was there, and in ok shape. Once, I was driving and noticed some strange steering feedback. Upon inspection, it turned out the shield was loose and rubbing against the steering linkage. I considered removing it, but instead spent more time securing it with bolts and plastic "fir tree" clips. Pulled it out during my recent radiator and harmonic balancer replacement work.

For those that might be interested, here is a panel with the extended idle switch, from the "police package" XJs with the 120mph speedometer. I can get more pics if needed.

Junkyards are my passion as well, along with Jeeps, working on Jeeps, and off road driving in Jeeps. I attend several Jeep Jamborees every year, and plan my trips out so that I can stop at junkyards all along the route. Back when I travelled for work, I would do the same thing, even though my full travel costs weren't reimbursed since I chose to drive rather than fly. I do a fair amount of reselling, as an extension of my love for junkyards. There are some very mundane items out there that people are willing to pay for. The trick is discovering what they are, for me that's part of the fun. I also really enjoy finding an old, "true" junkyard with stuff that has been there for possibly decades. In my experience, those places will often price their stuff out of a sale, at least for me. The newer u-pull-it places might not have the cool older stuff, but I like the set prices and don't miss haggling with the guy at the counter like the old days. One my favorite stories is when i was stationed in Hawaii, and went to a junkyard looking for a pintle hook. I found one, the type with the removable ball as part of the pintle hook. Pulled it, and then as I was walking out, spotted another pintle hook out of the corner of my eye. As I got closer, it turned out to be a WWII Ford GPW that was on the ground with 3 cars stacked on top of it. The only things I could pull were the pintle hook (with cursive "FORD" script cast in) and trailer wiring plug housing. Paid $25 a piece for the pintle hooks. Walked away smiling.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen the sport bar light switch option before. You know there was also an extended idle switch option available on the driver side.

I’ve done some fabrication work in the past, and it seems to me the best way to do this would be to have the actual panel to test fit the overlay as you were working on it. I believe I have an extra panel if you were interested.

OK the picture is of the rubber(ish) mat that is clipped to the frame beneath the front of the engine. I am interested in the determining the factory part number for it. Looked through the parts manual but didn't see it. Also, and mainly interested in what it's made of and is there a source for the stuff new. There have been a couple times now when I wished I had a large piece of it to fabricate a piece for a project.

I don't think I've seen that type before. Not my picture, but I have some that look like this:

I have a couple sets of Turbines. Took my worst 5 in for powder coating. Wasn’t sure I’d like them. Extremely pleased with the results. Originally looked like the ones in the ad above.

Agree, owners are free to ask what they want, but that price is high. Those won't "clean up" well or easily, and doesn't mention if center caps are included.

I've got two "blue" clusters if anyone is looking. They are "3/4" clusters, with oil, volts, and temp gauges, but no tach. One uses the plastic clip, one uses the metal clip. Pretty sure the lower one is an 86 or older, as the temp gauge has a blue area at the "cool" end of the gauge that was only found on 86 and older. Not sure on the other one.

The Jeeps I own can be seen in my signature. I will never buy a new car/Jeep/truck, prices are beyond ridiculous. But, I'm glad that the Jeep brand is healthy. The last time we had three models of the "Wrangler" available off the showroom floor was 1983 (CJ5, CJ7, CJ8). I agree that all the whiz-bang gadgets are a horrible trend. Hopefully in the future a big manufacturer will do away with it all, offer a model at substantial savings, everyone buys it, and it becomes the "new" trend. I don't think the Gladiator is aimed at someone who really needs a truck. Single cab trucks with an 8' bed are a rarity these days. I do think it is well suited to the "overlanding" crowd. Personally, I'd like to see a new Jeep towards the smaller end of the spectrum. These are my favorite Jeep Concept models of recent years: