87Warrior

Pulling the floor from the XJ would be more work than it is worth. The number of spot welds you would have to drill out to get the complete floor out would be astronomical. I have used patches from a parts XJ for my MJ floor pans.

I bet the 6BT rips with the light weight body on the light weight frame.

Sweet! Buuuuut..... it still won't be big enough. My 30x40 is filling very fast

I dumped GL-5 gear oil in an AX15 in a YJ I had in high school. As most folks do, I was simply trying to preserve it for years to come and relied solely on the Chilton manual for advice. Within 1 year of the gear oil change, I had to have the transmission rebuilt since most of the synchros were toast. I sold that Jeep a few years after the rebuild (filled with synthetic 10w-30) and it was working fine. I also run synthetic 10w-30 in the AX5 in my 86 MJ. 10w-30 is cheaper than the Red line fluid, is readily available everywhere and is what Chrysler recommends for the transmission... I see no reason to play 'gear oil roulette' with my transmission. I do run the Penzoil Syncromesh in the NV3550 in my TJ and have noticed the bottle indicates it is safe for yellow (or soft) metals.

Hmmm, $179.45 Drug this into the shop the other day :)

That is awesome. Thanks for sharing! It always pained me to see an original classic destroyed for entertainment. The craftsmanship of that crown vic is phenomenal.

I am looking for a complete set of relays and fuses for a 97+ XJ, under hood PDC and interior fuse panel . My latest parts rig was stripped of all the relays and fuses by the previous owner(s) and I am hoping somebody might have a busted PDC or fuse panel I could buy the relays and fuses from. These are the relays and fuses I need....all of them http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Electrical/1997_UP_Fuse_Identification.htm Thanks!

I pulled the dash and HVAC box out of my MJ yesterday and kept this question in the back of my mind while working on the truck. I see no feasible way to fit a fresh air cabin filter that wouldn't require pulling the dash to change the filter. I have seen TJ's with a filter retrofitted to the hvac inlet under the cowl, but since the passenger side of the cowl is sealed off on a MJ/XJ, it is impossible to access. One possible filter location on the MJ would be on the underside of the cowl cover, in front of the driver. This is where fresh air is drawn for the hvac system. Moisture would be the biggest hurdle here since the filter would be exposed to the elements. Maybe some sort of open cell foam with activated charcoal could be fit under the cowl vent. The recirculation vent in the passenger footwell could probably be fitted with a small filter with a little work. This would not filter fresh air.

The taper and thus the frame mounted bracket is different between the the early model and late model trackbars. I discovered this when getting my '86 put together. I had a good used, 91+ trackbar I wanted to use to replace the worn out stock trackbar in the '86. The 'rod end' of the 91+ trackbar would not fully seat into '86's frame mounted bracket. It has been a few years, but I remember something like a 1/4-1/2" gap. The early frame bracket has a smaller hole than the later model. I simply installed a '91+ frame bracket and went on my way. The trackbars are identical at the axle end. I will root around the crap pile and see if I can locate that early trackbar...but it might already be recycled and living its life as a Chevy Cruze.

I didn't have any glaring problems with Pacesetter on this '99 4.0 with the horseshoe intake other than stripping the paint and applying real header paint. I did have to grind the cone washers some so they would sit flush.

That is what I was thinking.... I have visited the main page a few times: when I first came to CC, when finding the forum from a new device and when my bookmark for the forum needs updated. Please, please, please do not add anymore sub-forums. That makes finding anything much more difficult than it should be. I am not even sure what is in the 'popular threads' sub-forums since I've never looked deeper than the pub. There are few Comanche's out there and even fewer enthusiasts. I don't think CC will ever grow quite like some of the other Jeep Forums so simple sections will continue to work.

Figuring out where to 'stop' is always a challenge. Just as you said, it starts by stripping the interior to replace a floor pan and ends up with a full repaint, "just because you are in there". There is a fine line we all walk with these trucks, but most of us fall into the endless rabbit hole and don't recover...

That is a nice lift!

I just wish there was a 'fix' for mobile browsers. I am glad I haven't nuked my PB account yet. I'll make sure to wait until the CC Rescue mission is complete before I do wipe my presence from PB :)

At 140k miles (130k of those are mine), the NV3550 in my '03 Rubi is still smooth and a pleasure to drive. Unlike several folks, I never have met an AX15 that impressed me, so I would do what it takes to get the NV3550. I would have any used transmission rebuilt before installing it. The asking price seems a little steep for a transmission with a known problem.

If your end goal is 37" tires, follow a plan that can get you there. I run 315/75r16 tires with TJ Moab wheels on my Wrangler. I like the tire size, but this size always looks small next to a true 35x12.5 tire.

Use heat and yxmj's removal process. Let the power steering push the wheel bearing off for you. There is no reason to replace the knuckle. These wheel bearings are a pain to replace if original.

This sounds like a fun build. I am particularly interested in seeing how the motor build turns out. The quench is pretty tight, but I don't see why it won't work with a 4.0. Do you have any current pictures of the truck with the 255/50r16 bfgs?

I have a parts truck with frame rot end to end. Cab is straight (A pillar, roof, B pillar down to 6" from corner, back window) but the rockers and corners are obviously rusted. Price: $0.00, you can chop out whatever you want and take it home. Located a bit of a haul from you in Junction City, KS.

That is an awesome tool and looks very well thought out. Thanks for sharing.

I wouldn't hesitate. As long as you can do some basic maintenance and repairs that truck is a bargain at $3k.

I really like Tuttle, but that is probably because I know every corner of that place. Be sure to post up some pictures of the Nebraska Gambler!

I don't have any immediate plans to hit a local park, but that is because I've lost touch with my old wheeling buddies.

Absolutely! It's been at least 10 years since I've been to KS Rocks, I get spoiled living so close to Tuttle. Which Gambler event are you going to? I almost entered the MJ into the Kansas Rally 2 weeks ago. I saw some wild looking cars headed south for the Gambler while doing some work in Burlington that Friday.

Local to Kansas :) I'm located near Junction City.