87Warrior

I did this exact thing this weekend in mine with column shift. This is what I did: 1. Remove the fuel gauge from your factory gauge cluster and cut off the bottom. Use the top of the PRD3 1-2 opening as your cutting guide 2. Remove the PRD3 1-2 housing from your factory gauge cluster. Two screws and unhook the wire to the column. 3. Remove the tach from your donor cluster, 3 or 4 screws on the back. 4. Notice: the bottom of the tach has two hole in each corner. Line up your PRD3 1-2 housing with those mysterious holes in the tach. Mark the tach where the PRD3 1-2 will be located. 5. Cut the Tach. 6. Place the lower portion of the fuel gauge (the piece you cut) behind the tach of of your donor gauges. Trim the PRD3 1-2 opening as necessary. You are essentially strengthening the tach to withstand the pressures of the column shift spring by doubling up the thickness of the tach. 7. Use a 1" machine screw, nuts, and washers to fasten the PRD3 1-2 housing to the back side of the tach. I put the screw in from the back, through the PRD3 1-2 housing, added 2 nuts as spacers, through the tach, and fastened down with two nuts. The PRD3 1-2 housing is now securely positioned behind the tach. The plastic gauge bezel will cover up the end of the machine screw and nut. 8. Trim any ribbing inside the donor gauges housing around the lower portion of the tach. Also, drill a big hole in the bottom of the donor housing between the speedo and tach. This is for the column shift wire to go through. 9. Test fit and check for clearances. The gas gauge might have capacitor on its circuit board you have to trim for. 10. Take the donor gauge cluster to your Jeep and get it plugged in (I would speculate holding off the the speedo cable at this time, the HO Jeeps do not have the speedo cable). 11. Fish the column shift wire through the hole you drilled and attach it to the proper place on the PRD3 1-2 housing. Push the tach into position. 12. Twist the gauge cluster forward and down to gain access to the back. Reinstall the tach using the 3 or 4 screws on the back of the cluster housing. This is a royal pain, but possible with a small screw driver or bit driver. When doing this you will notice the gear indicator may move down to 1-2, this is simply because you are pulling on the column shift wire. 13. Rotate the cluster backward and attach the speedo cable if necessary. 14. Once stuck back in the dash, the PRD3 1-2 indicator should be in the park position and should be ready to go.

Mine has 186K on it, factory drivetrain. A friend of mine was given an XJ from his neighbor. It was an 89 with the Renix, all factory drivetrain. That thing had 289K on it and would still break a tire loose on pavement and shifted strong. I was impressed.

Thanks. I am planning on doing the full cluster swap this weekend. Although, I am not sure that my current gas gauge is bad. I have noticed some movement of the gauge when driving, indicating to me, the gauge its self is working. When she is parked the gauge does not read full either. What sort of float does the MJ used? Would it be possible that my float has a hole in it and partially filled with fuel, thus not sending an accurate reading to the gas gauge? I figured this was the case. I'll give the TB another look. Seems like I should have some major death wobble if the TB was loose. with 186k on the truck and what appear to be the factory TRE's, I think they should be replaced anyhow :yes:

Well it was finally time to put gas in my new truck after I got it tagged and registered. The gauge is reading just about 1/4 tank when I pulled into the local filling station. Shove the nozzle in the truck and begin filling... and stops at about 8 gallons. I don't think much of it and start heading down the road and notice the gauge is only reading 1/2 to 2/3 of a tank. I repeat the same process a few days later with the same result. This time I used another filling station and tried to us the topping off the tank process to squeeze more in. No such luck. I have no idea what is going on. What should I look for and what should I do? :???: I also have a question about the steering linkage. Does the MJ have the same steering st up as an XJ or TJ? Currently my steering has a lot of slop in it and I would like to fix it. I would like to use the factory linkage from my Rubicon, or do a V8 ZJ linkage swap that works on the TJ.

Very nice truck. Soon my truck will be undergoing similar body work. I am keeping it stock :clapping: Fantastic job!

Oh yeah, it seems all owners think their rig is better than the others... I am here with 2 Jeep, so I know where I stand on the issue :clapping:

Nothing special here, just a 2000 Yamaha Wolverine 350. I only get to ride it for a week out of the year in Colorado. Even though I am in KS, she is jetted for the high country! Rock Krawling on the Timberline trial... Tough stuff with a puny worn out 350, at 10,500ft, and a solid rear axle... Image Not Found

I have a picture of something similar. Only this is my folks old rig pulling a family friends semi out of the neighbors yard. The drop was enough that the back set of tires on the semi were 12" in the air. To make matters worse our family friend had just got her CDL and did not know how to 'lock' the center axle in, so it was a dead pull. Image Not Found ... yes, it worked :thumbsup:

I picked it up I am in the Junction City area. Pics are in the "Introduce your Comanche" thread.... but for teasers sake: Do you happen to ever make it up to Tuttle? If so, let me know. Would be glad to wheel with ya!

So how many times a day do you hear the word "sustainable"? :redX: Way to many. Its everybody's "go to" word these days. 80% of the time the person doesn't have a clue what they are referring to.

Yes and no. As far as Landscape Architecture programs across the country, KSU has one of the toughest/best. I typically spend 18 hours a day in the studio working. My record is 3 nights with no sleep approaching a deadline. Makes me appreciate any time I have to work on the Jeeps or even just drive them :brows:

Well, it finally happened. After spending a lot of time contemplating the Brute conversion on a stock TJ as a Daily Driver, I picked up a 1992 Comanche. It has the 4.0 HO, AW4, 30/35, AC, PB, PS, and even a CD player. As far as I can tell, the truck has generally been untouched, just driven 185K miles. This truck suffers from some minor body rot around the rear flares, needs a few new hoses, and the shocks were toast. I am trying to locate a 2door XJ to get the sheet metal out of out of it for some repair. Now I need to find a good body shop to do the work. Also need to get a factory style rear hitch bumper. My plan for this truck is to leave it stock and drive it for another 100,000 miles!!!! The shocks had to be the factory shocks: A shot with its sibling! Thoughts, suggestions? ENJOY!

I am working on finishing up a non-bachelors Masters of Landscape Architecture degree at K-State. This has got to be the hardest program in the country!

Not my personal favorite ;) I enjoy smooth, clean lines

That's he safest way to do it IMO too. Just unbolt it from the rear pinion and strap it up safely leaving the t-case end connected. I will just plan on doing this. I'll just need to remember my sharpie, duct tape, and wire. I assume the MJ has the same size u-joint strap bolts as any other Jeep.

Thanks for the suggestions. I dolly towed my rubi home from Kalamazoo Michigan with the t-case in neutral, tranny in 1st. Some folks say its bad, others say its fine. I would love to find a D44 under there on Saturday but have a feeling its a 35 :nuts:

I have been a long time lurker of CC and have just recently joined up. This place has the best collection of MJ data and help out there. Way to go! The time has come for me to pursue my love of the MJ. I currently have a '03 Rubicon on 35's that I recovered from an insurance auction in Michigan in '03. I needed a DD last year and purchased a '97 Mazda Miata. The car gets great fuel mileage but is scary to drive on SUV covered roads and is painful to get in. It will be sold. Having experience with XJ's, I decided the MJ was an appropriate vehicle of choice at this stage in my life to replace the Miata. In May I hope to graduate from KSU with my Masters of Landscape Architecture. Here is a picture of my current toy: I have scoured ebay, forum classifieds, and even craigslist for the perfect MJ. One I liked was in CO, but went for $7,000. Checked out a few others and steered clear of them due to body rot. I am heading to Missouri to check out a 92 MJ, 4.0, AW4, 4wd, PS, PB, A/C with minimal rust bubbling at the rear fenders and no rear bumper. I have a few questions about MJ's. - I plan on pulling it home on a dolly. Should I disconnect the driveshaft or can the tranny just be put in neutral? - Will a SB bumper and brackets work fine on the LB truck? There is a local guy with an 86 rotting away in a field that has a decent bumper on it still. - Anybody know what the bed capacity and towing capacity of the truck is? - Is that silly stripe factory? I am not a huge fan of stickers. I wonder how the paint would look under that thing...