87Warrior

I say 190HP if he is lucky! Happens to me often. Granted the low gearing, traction, and terrain helps... Image Not Found Back on topic, would he pull the front up if in 4wd, assuming he has it?

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Awesome, thanks for the link. Any idea how big those things are? Marine Clean and Metal Ready are the two cleaning/prep agents I have. Although by reading the instructions, I began thinking they were only needed for a bare metal application, thus confusing myself. I assume the inner fender wells of the MJ bed are painted. Are you recommending putting the marine clean and metal ready over the paint that may still be there? Should I sand or wire wheel it?

Like sponge painting on a long stick? Would I find these at Walmart, auto store, or a Sherwin-Williams? Since the bed is not attached to the truck, getting up there on the shelf should be easier than if it was bolted to the truck. What sort of prep work, besides a good scrub down would be recommended for this?

I recently pick up a rust free long bed (thanks 'krochus') 8) and want to keep it that way. Before I haul off and get it painted, I figure I should do something to PREVENT the rust that will form over time. POR 15 will be my product of choice. What steps and procedures should I take to apply the POR 15 to the 'rust shelf' area? I have Marine Clean, Metal Ready, POR15, and Top Coat products available to use. Having never used these products, I am looking for advice on how to prep the surface and what products to apply to guarantee rust prevention. Thanks for the help and suggestions!

I am glad to hear so many happy folks with the little guy. My 5 year old Dell laptop is on its last leg. More blue screens than in the past plus my battery is completely obsolete. I have a full size desktop for anything important. How does the acer run Photoshop or any of the other adobe programs? As a design student, I am always using the CS4 master collection. How much power do they use? Any 12v. chargers out for them? I think it would be great for camping/Jeepin when you need to unload pictures from the cam or GPS waypoints. What is the current going rate of these things?

In reference to your 'pedal to the floor and e-brake light' situation. This exact scenario happened to me driving the Rubicon. Turns out my front drivers side brake hose burst open. Had fluid all over the place. [more of the story, do not buy the RE stainless brake lines] On the MJ's I do not think there is anything in the 'combination valve'. It is wide open and free flowing front/rear. That load sensing valve takes over the job. I would suggest inspecting the lines then bleed the system until NEW fluid runs out of all 4 bleeder valves.

Good deal, I have no plan on lifting, cutting, or drilling the truck :clapping:

Say what? Do folks really want these? Had no idea mine was a 'gem' :nuts: I figure any Laredo is a decent find.

Very nice. Looks about like mine, less a hole in the side of the bed due to rust. Do all the Colorado Red MJ's have shiny paint on them? My paint, the factory stuff according to the body shop guy, still is shiny and clean... even though the bed has rusted holes through it :fs1:

His bench seat is in much better shape than mine. With all his electrical expertise, you'd think he would have full gauges :dunno:

Glad to hear you are ok! Do not let any shop that does work to forget the 3M Chip Guard on the lower rockers and back of the front fender. All Miata have it. Or, You could just buy the Miata I am trying to sell :brows:

That truck is nice eye candy ;) I want my truck to look better than it when I am done though

So the lock cylinders from the MJ will work when used with the lock retainer from the 98 with a bit of work. Good, another alternative. Thanks

Thats what I like to hear :D I will need to get those cylinders out of there. I remember reading a post on here with the 'how to'. Time to find it :brows:

My MJ has a two sided key. It is just a tad shorter than my 03 Rubi Key (7 cut vs 8 cut I suppose?) If I am understanding this right, a good locksmith should be able to re-key the 98 door cylinders to work with my 92, double sided 7 cut key. Or will I get an 8 cut key that works in my 7 cut ignition cylinder? Does this set include an ignition cylinder and door cylinder? I've never been to an Advance (none locally), but figure O'Reilys or Autozone would have a similar deal. Would this be for the 98 Cherokee, or the 92 Comanche? I assume the Comanche, because the 98 Ignition assembly is very different (at least in appearance). If that is the case, can I reuse the Comanche door cylinders? Thanks for the help :doh:

I am continually researching the 97+ door swap and am getting close to the point of installation. However I have a problem. My 92 MJ has one key for the dDoors/glove box/ignition. I would like this to be the same scenario after I install the doors from a 98 XJ. Is it possible to swap the cylinder locks from the MJ doors to the new XJ doors? Or another way to get one key to do all the work? The key for the XJ doors was lost during the Jeep part out, so I do not have them. If I am required to go 'two key' can I have the dealer cut me a new key from the vehicles VIN number? I know Ford/Mazda will do this, what about Jeep? If no, how quickly can a locksmith generate a key for me? Thanks in advance!

Rear fenders look like my MJ's :eek: Looks good otherwise. Hope she treats you well. A few of my friends are big, what I would call, 'modern' Camaro fans. Me? I am practical to the first generation :brows:

Click on the other youtube link to the same video and you can read a few more comments. There is some good videography in there. Although, out of the sites in Paris, why not get a shot of the tower? Granted the arch was in there, but I wanted to see the tower!!!

While on the topic of Boosters I have a question that I feel will add to the discussion. I grabbed the Booster, MC, proportioning valve, and pedal assembly from a '98 XJ. As I understand it, this unit assembly should simply bolt into the MJ. Will I need to mod the factory harness to attach to the 98 brake switch? (I assume so)

The engineering "kids" here at K-State get all their plotting for free... are you that lucky too???? For us in Landscape Architecture, we get charged for each plot... granted is is a whole lot less than Kinko or Staples. Shouldn't you have an objective on that thing? How will employers know why they received it...

I absolutely love the NV3550 in my Rubicon. A whole lot smoother than the AX15 that was in my YJ. Beware of the 2000 NV3550. We had a 2000 TJ and that transmission liked to pop out of first gear regularly. Not a whole lot of fun when crossing 4 lanes of fast moving traffic. IIRC there was a TSB or the like about it. I have never had that issue with the NV3550 in my Rubicon :D

I here ya and it is much appreciated. ;) Any 97+ conversion (less the front clip and doors) are a long way down the road. I need to MJ as my DD after I get my Masters in May... Then comes job, home, yada-yada.... I am only trying to get parts now as this guy is selling stuff a whole lot cheaper than I have seen anywhere in the Midwest :yes: What research I have done led me to believe the MJ HO shares much of the same fuel system (rail, TB, tank sending unit, etc) as the 'modern' 4.0 with a distributor. Back when I owned a YJ with the 4.2, I wanted that darn fuel injection like nothing else and studied it a lot. In any case I am glad I will never need to hunt down a 91/92 tank sending. Now you have got me thinking about the AW4 computer. If the pre 97 and post 97 units will not work with each other, do the AW4 computers store and modify shift points as the new 42RLE does? I have read that is is dangerous the flash the PCM of a newer TJ if the 42RLE has a lot of miles on it because the PCM will reset to default shift points causing rough shifting and slipping. I will do what I can to get the wiring and everything it attaches to from this XJ. Do what I can to get all of the right parts collected over the years. Now I want to investigate the 98 wiring diagram and 92 wiring diagram to see about custom wiring the newer dash gauges to my existing harness... After all, its all electronic!

Jeepco, thanks for the clarifications! I have minimal experience with the difference in wiring for different years of Jeeps. All I knew was, I had to change a number or sensors on a 2001 WJ engine that I stuck in my 2003 Rubi. I will go ahead and try to get the PCM from the XJ as well. Luckily it has an AW4 like my MJ. Also, thanks for mentioning in intake manifold. I am going to try and grab that too.

PM Sent - Dibs on (1) of the Military Green Short Sleeve XL's! :ack: