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hogelectra

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    Mesa, AZ

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Comanche Fan

Comanche Fan (3/10)

  1. Even though the before picture of my Jeep Comanche was a nice original looking restored jeep. It just wasn't me. So after several runs up in the mountains rock climbing and the bending, denting, complete destruction (they call that Arizona Pin striping here) of different parts of the jeep I had to do a complete redesign to match me Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found
  2. Been running mine for 5 months now and love it - As long as you follow the instruction even I was able to install it
  3. For the 3.73 I found a 8.8 rearend with a limited slip and then put a newer 30 in the front - got them at a junk yard for $75 a piece - that was my cheapest solution to do my first upgrade. Couldn't find anything lower like a 4.10 or 4.88 The 2.5 off-road and pulling just is gutless. I know I can get a 4.0 with transmission and transfer case for around $500 and then lots of personal labor or take the truck in and have a shop put new gears in which I would bet the bill would be around $800 or which is the way I'm starting to look for is a Cherokee with the 4.0 and at least a 4.10 Again to many choices - lucky this is only a hobby and I'm not dependent on it at all
  4. darn - i figured this was not going to work. So to solve my lower gear problem my best solution is to regear down to a 4.88 or replace the 2.5 and stuff with a 4.0 or would I still have to gear lower for the 4.0 Also I more then likely need to replace my 30x950 tires with 33
  5. I have a 86MJ with the 2.5 and a 4sp. I have already put lower gears front and back went from the 3.55 to 3.73 - this was easy to find. But I drove someone else MJ with the 4.0 and a 5 speed. First gear was a real low granny gear. Thats is what I need. So does a 2.5 MJ come with a 5 speed and get that low granny first gear
  6. took a trip off-road for the first time - everything seemed to work and nothing fell off - but tomorrow I will check all the bolts to make sure nothing came lose. I have a question though - how can I configure the old vacuum lines so that my 4x4 light will come on when I shift the transfer case?
  7. Going to drive it to the store and back for the first time - been on blocks for weeks while I did all this changing in the front and rear. Then I'll do some alignment measurements tomrrow thanks for the advice
  8. Ok here are the pictures of the front end Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I measure the after market lower control arm and it is only a 1/4" longer then stock
  9. Also what are my risk or potential damage to my transfer case running this way
  10. ok you got my attention - the axle is from a Grand Cherokee and now I know the difference between a high and low pinion when they talk differentials. What are my options? Will changing my control arms to adjustable and forcing a better angle work or what else is reasonable - It took me a longtime to find a DANA 30 with the right gear ratio. And since I'm only $90 into this I can spend more if needed but would rather keep the axle.
  11. History of the vehicle - don't know how many owner there have been or what they installed or partially de-installed. I'm surprised almost daily at what I have found I have stock springs upfront with a 1 3/4" spacer with swaybar disconnects What I did was replace my front axle with a newer DANA30 without a vacuum disconnect which made it simpler to install my Aussie locker and to match the gears on the back. After I did the install I noticed that the angle on the front axle looked awkward in that the drive shaft was almost binding at the transfer case. It seemed to me either the lower control arm was to long or the upper control arm not long enough. Is there some measurements or rule of thumb for pinion angle up front. Now the lower control arm is not stock and has been replaced by this very hefty looking aftermarket control arm.
  12. All right excellent advice. I jacked the rear end up, started it up and put it in gear. It made a terrible noise and the drive side wheel wobbled a little. The rim was bent but it has been that way for several weeks. But the noise. Got under and listen and looked. One of the retention rings on the u-joint came out and the cap was not seated correctly. That let the drive shaft move back and forth as it turned. Reseated the cap and put another retention ring on and the problem went away - all is fine
  13. OK did some work on the rearend and now I have a wobble at even low speeds. What I did. 1. Took off old DANA 35 2. Replaced it with a Explorer 88 What I knew I did wrong - it was dark and I was tired 1. The axle is off center - maybe a half inch (it was marked correctly but I must not have seen it) 2. The pinion angle is wrong - instead of being straight or a slight offset - I'm past straight and offset the other direction Could these be my problems? Or could my axle be bad?
  14. use of a floor jack - that's something I might have thought of but might not thanks I have to go find a u-joint that will accommodate the 1330 on the 8.8 side and 1310 on the axle side. I'm told that was a common thing on some Ford trucks straight from the factory - so it shouldn't be hard
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