87Warrior

10w-30 Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic. Why? When I bought and rebuilt my first 4.0 in 2003 I did some research. I understood that the ZDDP has all but disappeared from motor oils but the European ACEA specification nearly matches the anti wear properties of ZDDP. Mobil 1 High Mileage meets ACEA A3 which is closest to the ZDDP content of years past. 110k miles later this 4.0 is still the quietest and smoothest 4.0 I've been around.

That truck would be a nice one to have, drive and show. I can't believe it's back up for sale!

^^ This. Vibratus maximus. I took them off my MJ two weeks later and replaced them with NOS Mopar originals. Never again..........I had the poly ones and it took me a week to take them out...Vibrations were TERRIBLE at idle... I was told to let the rubber version 'break in'. Drove the Jeep 13 hours to and from CO and spent a week wheeling. Absolutely no change in the vibes. This is what I struggled with during my research. Some say the vibes are fine and others absolutely hate them. It's a matter of personal opinion and expectations.

I have Brown Dog ultra flex rubber in my TJ and I have regretted the purchase ever since. No amount of adjustments can stop the vibes at idle. I can only imagine how it would feel in the unibody MJ. On the other hand, I doubt I'll ever wear them out.

You made the right choice to leave #4 alone. The 2.5 has a one piece rear main unlike the two piece found in the 4.0. If you dropped the cap and crank, I don't think you could have gotten the seal to fit squarely when putting it back together.

I am not sure how much lift I have, never cared enough to measure :) Maybe 3.5" with almost 31's. The front is made up of sagged RE 3.5" springs that came off my TJ, JKS disconnects, RE trackbar, stock control arms and YJ shocks. The rear uses the stock 4wd leaf pack with a cut 2wd main leaf under the 4wd main, Chevy drop shackles and Bilstein shocks. The tires are 265/75r15 Cooper AT3 (nearly the same size as a 31x10.5r15 but much cheaper).

You are absolutely correct and IMHO is why it never took off. The 'page' aspect is far less inviting as a place for discussion in comparison to a group. Quite frankly if I want to talk MJ, CC is my only choice. If I am selling parts, I only want them to go to a CC member as well. I still don't like FB as a discussion board.... and I've been a member since the beginning.

Umm, there is a ComancheClub.com page run by our very own that has been up for quite some time. It was just recently opened up for general discussion.

The 'high pitched sound' you heard when pressing the clutch was the sound of a failed release bearing, which is part of the internal slave cylinder. If the truck is your daily driver I'd suggest simply installing a new slave cylinder and clutch. However if you can afford some down time, sourcing parts for an AX15 swap would be a great choice.

Absolutely! ;)

This guy out scored 90% of the rigs at a Flex For Food event I attended earlier this year. Don't mind the chassis flex :)

Holy cow, there is some serious money in this thread. I feel kind of embarrassed :) I usually tent camp with a now 14 year old Cabelas dome tent. Times are changing so I've have to transition to compact and light weight. This is my ENO hammock set up, ready for anything.

I also found my 99 XJ firewall piece in the scrap pile. It's all intact:)

Where about are located in this 400 mile long state? You may want to replace the O2 sensor as well. The 2.5 relies heavily on the O2, MAP, CPS and Coolant temperature to run. Actually, my truck melted a plastic hose I ran to the MAP on the turnpike and idled just as you describe when I stopped to pay the toll. At some point some of the EGR equipment fell off my truck... Runs great.

I think a patient person could scale the image and use it as the template. I can easily take a few measurements from my modified firewall.

Yes. The water jacketed intake went away when Chrysler did away with the TBI and adapted multi point fuel injection in 1991.

Best I can do. Cut out of a 99. Made a template from the inside. (sorry that was 3+ years ago and rats got the paper) I used a hole saw to cut the shaft location out of my MJ then used the same hole saw to cut a crescent moon piece from the 99 firewall to fill in the old MJ hole.

Your issue is a drop in vacuum, not the heater bypass valve. But, I'd still encourage you to throw the heater valve in the trash as preventative maintenance.

My '86 is built the same way. It's a pain to reinstall.

It looks like you are well on your way, and doing a fine job at it! Very clean work. I will post an engine bay picture of my 86, but I don't think it will answer your hose routing question. When I bought this truck, the previous owner had used green garden hose for the heater hoses, so I am not sure how the factory routed the hoses. I deleted the heater valve in my truck after the vacuum diaphragm on it failed and left me without heat in the dead of winter, three hours from home. The heater valve serves no purpose other than creating a potential cooling system failure point and expediting heater core failure by restricting coolant flow through the heater core for half of the year. In fact, Jeep eliminated the heater valve in later years. Truly, there is no reason to maintain a heater valve. I did not notice any EXTRA heat coming in the cab when driving the truck yesterday. It was 99 degrees and 90% humidity. Plus the heat works great when the temperature is sub zero :)

It is a starter you would use to start the vehicle while in gear quite regularly. Common practice by some when wheeling a manual in the rocks. The procedure was even mentioned in the TJ owners manual and provided instructions on how to bypass the clutch. interlock.

That's no lie!

No problem. Just remove the transmission shifter first ;)

Good question. Does Comanche Club have a Facebook group? It seems I 'like' a ComancheClub.com page, but not a group. Really, as a non admin there is not much you can do for a page you can only 'like'. Discussions are hard to find and originate. It really is dependent on the administrators creating news and discussion for those that like the page. Jeep does a great job with this for their page. If you want discussion and member participation on Facebook, you have to make Comanche Club a group not just a page to 'like'.

There is no way they built the springs to those specifications. Since Deaver is a reputable company, I'd address them with the issue. Bet they make it right.