victorgallas

Hey, So i did more digging here. For the 87 up to 90, the distributor rotor is set at six oclock. From 91 to 95, distributor is set at 3 oclock. http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideMain.jsp?pageId=0900c1528008aa69 Did this and the engine started right up. I also was concerned of being too retarded, but this seems to be the correct setting for fuel injected, later model ones. I just installed a brand new MAP, O2, Air temp, Engine temp, TPS and Idle valve on the engine, all new. For the OBD codes, the light on the dash is not on. Does this mean that it does not have any stored codes? I did just refresh the entire cluster during the rebuild and I know the bulb works. When you turn the car on, the light comes one for the ECu then goes off after the engine is running. Before when I had a bad TPS, since it got dunked in parts cleaner by accident, the CEL light was on. I put a new TPS and the lights went away and runs without any lights on the cluster. I just ordered a new crank sensor, wondering if a failing one could cause any misses? Thanks for the quick reply everyone. Vh

Hey everyone. I need help with my Jeep from the gurus here. Its a 1991 2.5L 4 cyl engine with the fuel injection system. It has the injector per cylinder setup on this. I have pretty much replaced all of the sensors on the engine, cleaned it all up inside and even added new main bearings and connecting rod bearings as they where shot when I bought the car. Since doing all the work, the engine has been running smooth and the truck runs alright. But I do notice a lack of power; I know its the 4 cylinder, but I always have to give it good amount of gas to get it going. My biggest headache is that I am getting about 12 to 13 MPG, which I think its insane! I have no leaks on the intake, fuel pump, filter and all those maintenance items are new as well. The only thing that I recall not checking before was the position of the rotor in the distributor when installing a new distributor I got. I used the haynes manual and it stated that when installed, the rotor should be at the six o clock position when you are standing on the side of the engine. The front of the engine is to your right shoulder and the back to your left and you are staring right at the distributor in front of you. In this six oclock installation, I couldnt even get the engine to start. I could feel that the engine would try to start and it would stop the started right away. In a way I feel that it was too advanced. I then began to look around and some other sites are listing that the rotor should be installed at the 3 o clock position, essentially poiting forwards. My question here is. What is the correct rotor position for a 2.5L 1991 Engine with the port fuel injection electronic setup? Any tips here? What other areas could be causing my poor fuel economy? Crank sensor at the rear of the engine? That is pretty much the last sensor I havent touched... Any ideas will be very welcome. At this point i want to drive this daily but with a 12 MPG thats a little absurd...

Thanks guys! Actually no rust in there, as we had the entire truck re painted with the glass removed, so they could paint the seal area properly :) I ended up using a micro USB cam and found that the water is coming in from the top seam, at the cab corner and roof. I think i can patch it up from the inside without removing the glass. i still have the interior out as i am still finishing the restoration process.

Hey everyone I have been slowly restoring a comanche here and I am trying to wrap it up. I just had the rear glass re installed with fresh sealer. I just had a chance to run water on the car and I get water in the cab. Its very little ammount, but its coming in. i can see the water trickling down on the back wall behind the plastic trim pieces. You can see what I mean on this picture below: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104532481/leak1.jpg I wanted to ask if anyone attempted to repair this by putting some sealant on the outside, between the paint and the rubber seal, as a way to prevent water from leaving down that way. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104532481/leak2.jpg Any input? What are you guys suggestions to dealing with this water leakeage? All the best Victor

I had this issue when I put newer seals on my truck. i had to tweak the door lock adjustment and door mounting bolt so that the door wasnt closing so tight against the seals, this way it closes easy. Just takes some adjusting to do.

Let me clarify, when I did the procedure, I did not remove the crank, since it was attached to the transmission. I had to rotate the crank with a small cotter pin in the oil passage to rotate the upper bearing out. It work well.

Yeah, that's what I figured. The engine is running so smooth and quiet, it's awesome. Pretty happy with it. Just gonna enjoy it as is. Should something come up later that prompts and engine tear down, then I'll revisit that last one.

Perfect. I'll give that a shot. Thanks again!

I had a hard sputtering under accel on my 2.5l engine. Turned out to be a bad throttle position sensor. Put a new one, check engine light went away and engine runs great. This is on a 1991 one..don't knownif you have that or not

Gotcha those are good points. I do like it pretty cold. But ill let.it be for now. I did add a 10inch auxiliary fan in front of the condenser in order to help the AC work better specially in those really hot days. I only had the mechanical setup, which has a new clutch so it's working good. I get plenty of air moved. So if I wanted to adjust the expansion valve screw, what would be your advice?

I agree on the four door belts being 1ft too long..ran into that here too. Time to chease a two door belt then. Thanks

For those wondering. This is how the bearings came out of the car. Glad I replaced them. https://www.dropbox.com/s/zmoe4ysuk4mmj3f/IMG_20160828_154738765_HDR.jpg?dl=0

These inside vent temp is for an ambient of 100f.

Gotcha. I didn't even know you could touch that screw. Well my biggest question is how low will the vent temps be? The lowest o get is 50. Most other cars/forums talk about 40f even 35f. What has been your experience on a converted r12 to r134? I ended up leaving it as it for now, because I need to move on to getting the other work done on the truck, but may get back to hooking up the gauges and going over these things later on the week. It will surely help to go into it with a better idea on what to look for.

Gotcha. I was under the impression that you had to add extra oil to account for dry lines and new condenser and drier. What should my pressures be for the low and high at idle? Ambient is around 90f in the garage....