87Warrior

Really? Still hashing out the same concept photos from 2004?

Sorry, no progress photos. The only thing I have done is organize all of the stuff that accumulated in the bed. Found a set of JKS shackles I forgot about. That was exciting. I did find a NIB TJ Rubicon axle lock switch for the truck a few weeks ago. Felt like I struck gold even though you can still order these from Jeep. I have also pulled the axles out of storage so they can be prepped for installation. The front will get new bearings and seals along with a locker diaphragm, ball joints and u joints while the rear will get bearings, seals, disk brakes, a locker and 4.10 gears. I have sat idle on this truck for long enough that I feel the excitement starting to burst again. It's nice that I have been able to bring my TJ up to snuff again in that time and I have just a few other basic maintenance repairs left to do on the new Land Cruiser. Here you can see the MJ wondering what the neck a Toyota is doing in its space. The Toyota has come a long way since I hauled it home in this pic.

Agreed. Amazon's return policy is hard to beat as well. I never could get behind the Rockauto bandwagon. They sell the same chinamade parts as everybody then tack on crazy shipping charges.

I'd also recommend using a fine thread bolt. Since tapping by hand won't have the precision of a machined thread, I like using fine threads since you get more contact and don't need to tighten it up as tight as a course thread fastener.

...and cheaper, and easier :) Take your broken bolt to the hardware store and find a bolt that is just a little bit bigger than the broken bolt. I would look at SAE and Metric to find a suitable replacement. Take your new bolt to the drill bits and taps aisle. Find a tap for your replacement bolt and pick up the needed drill bit (bit size is specified on the tap/packaging). Sometimes the tap and drill bit can be bought as a package deal! Back at the truck, slowly drill out the stripped weld nuts. Don't forget to use a little oil on the drill bit to dissipate heat. Then thread the drilled out nut with the tap. Go very slowly, keep it oiled and continually remove the tap to clear out metal build up until all the way through the nut. Thread in the new bolt. Presto, your truck is done. The nuts welded to the inside of our truck frames are generally only held in place with two tack welds, so don't put too much force on them!

If the Tundra has more than 90k miles, plan on doing a timing belt and water pump service. I've been learning a lot about the Toyota 4.7 since buying a 100 series, and while they aren't any more complicated than a 4.0 the parts are more expensive. I do love driving the 100. I never dreamed I'd admit to liking a Toyota... I tested drove a Tundra while vehicle shopping for my wife. It was a HUGE truck. Felt like driving my buddy's lifted Cummins, just more comfortable. She didn't like it either so we did not buy. Any new truck will be more refined than a MJ. That begs the question, for your use is a new truck really necessary? Is a stroker for the MJ really necessary? Your MJ has probably depreciated as far as it will go. Keeping it in good condition will only increase its value as time marches forward. The Tundra will probably take another 20 years to reach that point.

yes, Yes, YES! My 92 needs this!

This is an event I'd love to attend, but crowds make me queasy. Take many pictures of those Fiat concept Jeeps! Keep the shiny side up :)

This is typical for any LED without a good projection system. A ton of light real close, but it depletes quickly. I'd love to get some JW Speaker LED headlamps for my truck, but holy cow they are expensive.

I did IPF H4 housings with vvme HID bulb and ballast as a trial. Ended up liking it so much the set up is still in my truck. This is far from fancy but works great. More light with absolutely no hot spots and it removes the power load from the switch. I like a lot of light, not a lot of lights ;)

Oh boy. I might even buy a new Jeep if this was the case! IFS has a lot of parts to it.....a lot of parts. It sure has been a learning experience for me working on my first Toyota and IFS vehicle.

My 86 is built the same way. Although, I didn't have a problem removing the UCA bolts when I replaced the arms a couple of years ago. Maybe it is because I'm still running the 2.5 verus the 4.0 you swapped?

:( I never got to meet him, but you could sure tell Peter was passionate about Jeep through his words online.

'I told you so!' :(

I am using whatever basic muffler the muffler shop had when he replaced everything from the manifold back. My theory is when the muffler goes, the rest of the exhaust system is on its way out. $150 for everything from the manifold back, less the cat and installed, is hard to pass up. Plus it is very quiet, the way Jeep motors are supposed to be.

What is your end goal? Just for fun?

ggcnash - Thank you for the review. I hope something gets settled where both you and krusty are relatively pleased. I have been in a similar situation before, buying a prototyped Jeep part that was expensive. In the end, it was a learning experience that I never wish to relive. The construction of the sliders look great, but the reasoning behind them following the axles versus the body doesn't make sense to me. Based on the pictures I've seen, if I bought them I'd need plan on modifying them so they at least look right on the truck. But as with most MJ accessories, they probably won't be available when I am ready to purchase so it's a mute point.

Seriously, I have tried with no success. I've managed to keep the 2.5 running great without the forum so I stopped wasting time trying to join.

LOL. Been trying to join that site for 4 years. I gave up.

That's the same reaction I get. Folks also don't park next to me. I don't get it????

You cannot test the O2 sensor with a multimeter like the other sensors. If you suspect it hasn't been changed in recent history, go ahead and replace it with a NGK/NTK sensor. I believe NGK supplies Mopar O2 sensors. If you are still hunting for vacuum leaks, take a closer look at the cluster of 4 vacuum lines connected to the throttle body between the throttle body and valve cover. The rubber connector is known to leak at the throttle body. Best course of action to repair it is to remove the block and replace it with 4 individual vacuum lines. IIRC, there are two sizes.

Boy, I am sure glad I never heard that poor advice. There is nothing wrong with an 86 MJ. Sure they have a few quirks, but to avoid them completely is absurd. To the original topic at hand, if the truck at hand passes your scrutiny and is what you want from an MJ, go for it. I am speculating the truck is a pristine specimen based on the asking price. $4k does seem demanding for a 2.8 powered truck, but researching that motor should help you determine if it is one you want to live with. I'd have no reservations paying the asking price if the truck is a spotless original driver, knowing I'd probably swap the 2.8 for a 3.4 someday.

After getting the AT3's mounted it was time for a trip. The trip was to Salida Colorado to visit family and do a little skiing. It was a success. 1,600 miles. Best fuel economy was 17mpg and the worse was 11.5mpg. I did discover the upper driver door hinge needs replaced as the bushings are worn, causing wind noise when in a 35mph cross wind. This was a lot of fun in Western KS and Eastern CO where the wind never takes a break. There is also some sort of 'clunk' I can hear and feel in the floor when hitting a big bump or dip in the road. Spent a couple of hours prying and shaking the front end but can't find a dang thing loose. I was disappointed in the lack of snow and dry roads, even in the high country. I really wanted to see how this rig behaved on the slick stuff. I was able to hit the slopes at Monarch where the snow was dismal at best. Naturally, the day I left it snowed a foot in Salida.

Great/Great. It is equivalent to what a stock TJ Rubicon came with from the factory. A higher revving 4.0 will also help keep itself lubricated ;)

The longevity of the Synergy joints is still unknown at this point. Seems that most of the reviews are based on folks who don't daily drive their Jeep, my father is one of them. I doubt they will last 2-3 times longer than Spicer as you would expect from the price. Even Jeep guru 'mr. blaine' recommends Spicer over the high dollar options. Moog ball joints didn't last 8k miles in my TJ.