MancheKid86

check the bolts on the valve cover and oil pain? could have rattled loose since your torqued them uppon gasket installs?

clutch pedal snapped in half while doing 100 mph, yes 100 mph, And yes the pedal, i learnt really quick how to shifT matching engine to ground rpm, had to drive 100 km like that XD

id buy it for $100,<br />and then new fenders and doors,<br />remove the bed and truggy the rear,<br />sand er all down + paint<br /><br /><br />but thats just me

*edit* Didnt read page two xD

nice progress so far, doing very detailed work just a question tho, while the engine was out, it got new/cleaned accessories, sensors, seals, how come you didnt rebuild the inside? other than that keep up the good work

i have a passenger side forsale, ready to be re welded in and painted :) my drivers side was rotted to nothing, so i deleted both both sides and upgraded to the newer style seat c channels/brackets/seats

oyaji, he is not overloading his engine to the point to over heat due to any spark issues, tire size, gear size, he states that INCREASED RPM will induce the over heating, INCREASED RPM IS A PARTIAL RESULT OF DROPPING GEARS! SO OBVIOUSLY HE WILL OVER HEAT FASTER if he drops gears every where like you suggest, as well as you state that driving in second will save him money, NO, you are driving slower with way more rpms, more rpm's = more fuel being burnt = more gas consumed heck, if that were the case my truck would over heat every day, 3.55 gears with 35" tires, but it doesnt, it runs actually around 150, so do us (or me atleast) a favor and stop posting on this topic, you are disregarding every input, and making it seem like they have no idea what they just typed, save every one the grief i apologies to every other participant in this thread for my outbreak, but this dude drove me nuts just reading this, I'm sure your all going nuts too paradiseMJ have you tested your tsat? just toss it in a pot of water and boil it until it opens, make sure to have a thermometer handy to see the temp it opens like jimoshel asked, have you pulled your frost plugs out? and don't know if this applies, ive read about the 3 row radiators having lots of overheating issues where the owner swapped back to a oem single row with no issues afterwards, could this maybe be the same with your 2 row? thats all i got, good luck

take a pic of your connector from the antenna

You got a good point Darren, I guess you get what you pay for lmao, Mall crawlers shouldnt be an issue but if your gonna take it off road then your askin for trouble

there was a thread on someone having an antenna with a two way connector, they swapped it back to oem and it worked just fine

well than, I'm sitting on a gold mine!

The rage extreme is bondo, and the glaze isnt just for pinholes, You sand the "body filler" with 80 grit that is way to coarse for high bild primer/sealer/paint The putty glaze blends and fills the scratches, and is able to fi.ish in a much finer grit, reducing the ammount of times it needs to be high builded and sanded, and is also allows the bondo to flex with the metal more, Just a tip dude, I like your progress so far But seriously keep it up

*edit* thought i had somethin but nothin

Bigger loop yes, if your gettin snapped out you gonna trust a 1 1/2 ring? Also on the winch topic, there s rope for winches, also most winches now a days have an in cab controller, the onlt way it will snap is if its not maintained and tensile strength rating is not what it should be, they are waaaaaay safer than chains

those straps are what you want, and bigger clevis's than the one displayed deff need recovery points braced into brackets i used 3 30 foot straps hooked together to get me out the other night most of all, you need a big deisel recovery truck on stand by, my come along didnt do anything when i was stuck in the mud

decent, keep it up noticing you don't have any putty glaze in the pics, youll need that to blend the bondo can't wait to see more

find a 4.0L an put the ax 15 in, need pb74 (input shaft pilot bushing) and its a direct swap, swapping in a 4.0L is alot work, all new components, harness, computer, welding new motor mounts, if your doing the 97 int. swap, why not do the whole conversion?

take a wire, hook it up to the engine bay ground, and hook the other end up to the fuel pump ground, should fire right up, had the same issue when i took my 89's bed off

your starters done, your comuatator`s widings have either come undone or your brushes inside the starter are finished (past wear points) leaning towards the brushes, a failing solenoid (electromagnet) on the starter would cause an on/off no crank take out your starter, bring it to a local shop and get them to check it out, they can put the armature/comutator in a lathe and mill it down, as well as cut the mica that seperates the windings on the comutator to the specified level, as well as put new brushes in, after you should have a good as new starter, if not they found shorts to ground and need to replace the whole assembly

:needpics: sorry had to, havent used it in a while

seems like your unit bearings or ball joints are shot (ball joints because of the tires dropped to the camber it should be at) do these tests to check both of above items remove your tires. spin the bearings that the disc brakes mount too, there should be a drag torque to them ( meaning it takes a certian amount of lbs/sq inch to rotate) if they are free spinning or make grinding noises they are toast, also grab the unit bearings from top and bottom and push/pull the top/bottom at the same time then viseversa a few times, there should be no play if there is find where its coming from and thats your toast part, that twisted drivers lca is also giving you unwanted camber on the drivers side, it needs to be replaced, you deff have it narrowed down, you axle isnt bent except for your drivers lca get someone to jack on side up and down repeatably and watch that side of the axle. what your looking for is the point where the tires are pivoting from, either the ball joints (yes i know) or your unit bearings hope this helps

take your pipe used that you used on the tires and rest it on the axle tubes, see if they are straight, aswell like pete said cneck your toe in/out also 35/37 on 8 inch of lift isnt bad at all, and a dana 30 can survive 35/37" tires, depends on how hard u push the skinny pedal, what gears you have, and if you have a locker in the front, trussing it will prevent the tubes from bending get another d30 if yours is bent, preferably a HP, and truss it have you jacked up your front end? when jacking it up see if the tires droop changing the camber, that will elminate ball joints ( if you checked it while the tires were on the ground, there will be too much preload, and will mask it to seem like theres no play) also, do you have adjustable control arms? if so, you can control the degrees of camber, since your axle is fixed to a pre determined angle, rotating the axle by shortening or extending the lower control arms will actually change the angle could you take more photos, where you can actually see the axle tubes that are not hidden behind your drag link, tie rods, track bar? ie. from behind (yes youll have to lay under your truck :P) or take a shot from underneath said items? **edit** just noticed this, completely unrelated, hows your steering while turning right? your adjustable steering stabilizer looks like the piston travel isnt set to half way for centered tires

first off, you didnt get witnesses? if she is at fault, you should have atleast if not more than one witness, and sounds like it may be pooched, but pics will tell zack, there is the possibility that that bolts that hold the drive shaft in on the straps which are designed to shear let go, need pics!

02 sensor?

its been done, my buddy has a sbc 350 in his xj as well, no lack of power