MancheKid86

keep up the good work, get the correct part before ur driveshaft fails, the aluminum will not hold up to iron/ steel, and the more times it gets bashed, the weaker it will get

before you tear appart your steering column stick test leads where the brake lights are ( use a multimeter) when pressing on the pedal if you see no voltage change trace those wires back, you may find a broken/coroded wire some where down the wiring harness, if that doesnt work dig into your steering column, would suck if u replaced that and it wasnt the problem so check the easiest thing first ie. the wires that power the tail lights for breakage/corrosion amd geonovast I'm with you on the compressor, i did it without one.... never again

yes you cam, i did the same to mine when i installed the extended brake lines cept i cut mine off since that fitting was rusted solid to the stock rubber lines, all you need is a new end, and a flaring tool capable of doing a double flare, easy as pie that line is not stainless ( i know.. your extended line is :P ) so it will be simple on an unrelated note, i would clean your shocks piston (shiny thing now covered in spray on undercoating) that undercoating may ( may not but may) destroy the seal that is on that shock, you want to keep all debris off it if possible

all they did was hack the roof off of a 90 2 door laredo, hit it with some paint and take pics after some rolled steel, any one up for the challenge>

sure is the fix, rode with D/W for 1 year, had it since the maiden run so i masked it with a steering stabilizer, just replaced all the components a month or two ago, bushings on axle, bushings on control arms, new hardware with 0.00 tolerance gap for bushing sleeves new steering linkages and front axle, and new tires, and rebuild my bds superflex track bar ( which was the problem, p/o left the trackbar loose which when a few thousand pounds behind it is stationary couldnt tell) rollls SMOOOOTH, not to mention i don't have any sway bars and its still like butter

What happened?! And youve got soms good friends atleast your okay. can't wait to see on what you have planned

I am down, just need to rebuild my transfercase, Which will be easy to do in about 2 weeks time :P

I run 35s on a 4.5 lift I rub on my lca and coilsi don't touch my fenders but I do have bushwacke rs

snag that ax15 up, its external slave cyl which is awesome, even if you don't use it you can still sell it for atleast double you got it from the yard for they are a good transmission

some times expressions are better said than words... :rock on:

so i went out today looking for work, i went to a place called transwest canada they are a bell certified training/over haul facility, they also do forest fires down and what not even down in Australia, i met with the Director of Maintenance who said that there was alot going on atm, and he had to deal with some things first before there was a spot for me. fair enough, so i told him id be in touch and hopefully see him again soon :P hop in my manche and he went up to the side of it, he asked, you build this thing? so i answered sure did from the ground up, so nexts words out of his mouth were, you start monday well have housing for you, so ill be working down in oliver which is super close to the us border so any one in washington wana go wheeling once i upgrade my heep a bit?

i was going to mention that, its the simplest and most effective to an extent, all the local 4x4 boards I'm on do it

today was a good day, because i got theese in today :D went from this.... to this! :D this thing drives so smooooth now, not a single wobble shake shimmy notta :D

do i spy a dana 44? :D

hey, if shipping isnt too much, i am seriously interested in peices of that bed, this is what I'm dealing with on either side, whats your price with shipping on enough of sides to fix it? i would take the right box corner too i could outline what i needed?

well got the axle in, just waiting on tires now, i couldnt get the axle to line up so i got creative :D also scored this baby for free! :D more to come, i need to rebuild my transfer case do my clutch, find a H.O engine and do cruiser54's ho swap so ill be busy :P can't wait for my tires they will be in by friday, didnt get my mtr's just some BFG A/T's for the highway ill get play tires once i get some cash . :MJ 1: .

been a while since i udpated :P have done alot of stuff, engine changes 100 hour inspections, run ups, rigging , servicing of pretty much every component my class and the final product.... :D

tbi would be throttle body injection so i thinking its a 2.5, is the back firing happening before tdc or after (after would be in exhaust and before would be through intake) before could be a bunch of things, timing, carbon deposits, fuel mixture, hot spots on spark plugs, if its after in exhaust its from an excessive rich mixture where the after fire or flame propagation still takes effect in the exhaust, this is likely caused by your egr valve which will dump more fuel in to warm the engine up when in cold temps iirc

sloride, You said you could "hear the gears" in reverse, but not the forward gears. Is that just when putting it in reverse, or after it's in gear? If you can hear a slight whining with it in gear and the truck's not moving, as well no grinding in the forward gears, then I'm certain your T-case is in neutral. sounds legit enough, if op doesnt post back that can be assumed problem :P

i agree with genovast, pull the diff cover before its too late, sounds like something in your diff is blown my front diff did the same thing till it just stopped spinning in 4wd when i went upnorth in -40 temps :P

where does that first bracket even go? :P

this could be like the lazy boy recliners for the dad, no one sat in it, get ur hemi jk on the side and do the same to it :P

before you sand down any thing get a rubber eraser wheel, cheaper because u won't damage the paint

should be correct yes :P

HAHAHAHAHAHA, awesome sir awesome!!!!