MancheKid86

don't go too slow on hills, but don't skinny pedal up either if you slide, let the truck grab itself, do not stomp on the brakes drifting in winter is hella fun!

The sugar gas works great, now thats karma if being stolen

deff control arm issue with the knocking noises, my shimmable lca mounts (inner bracket to lca frame side) became elongated and would slap back and forth opening the hole bigger over time and wearing out bushings if the steering wheel is shaking you have an imbalance in the front end, check your tires for balance have someone go in the truck and spin the wheel left to right, and watch all the steering components and see if there is any play

swap the proportioning valve at the same time, youll have full lock up in the rear too early otherwise iirc :thumbsup:

welcome back! i myself wondered where you went, havent seen you on the forum for a while!

I'm thinking he got it for $500 and is just looking for a quick flip would like to see a video of it running, and yes it will start without a tranny in it

i would be down for all the hating and stabbing, except, i did not have a 100 post thread of why is it doing it? i found the problem, and no ones input was the solution also, i would be down for all the hating and stabbing if i sat on it, and didnt replace it, and wondered why it made that noise, i expected issues with the truck, i didnt give a .... what shape it was in, i wanted it, and yes I'm reaping the benifets... or lack there of, i have replace all 4 rotors, ebrake calipers, all 4 pads, installed a washer fluid res vac res new knuckles spindles hubs locking hubs coils 3 u joints axle stub shafts heim joint fixed all the electrical issues front driveshaft parts alignment fluids ect... and so on and so forth so don't give me this piss and moan $#!&.

got my chevy output seal in, **added** for searchable reference, the problem came back last night (changed the seal today) which is weird, because the fluids were topped up while replacing the seal, i noticed my u joint to the rear axle was missing a zerk fitting (grease nipple for all who don't know the proper name) and then i noticed that u joint was beyond done so it was replaced with the output seal problem gone seal puller worked like a charm, invest in one if need be for $15 bucks, worth its weight in gold, even if you use it only once every couple years, its been 4 years since i used it last

this is a cold start up in dawson creek where it was -35f~-40f+ before windchill

external has an external slave cyl on the left hand side, internal has the slave cyl on the inside, and the hydraulic lines go through the right side of the bellhousing

don't forget to check your blinker fluid, this level or higher is aceptable

:rotf: :yes: :rotfl2: :cheers:

the correct bushing is PB74, for a 1972-1975 cj5

the clutch and pressure plate will infact work from the 98, the only difference in the clutch kit for a 98 is the throwout bearing, disc's are still the same, so in theory you'd need the 98 clutch kit anyways to do the swap properly if going with new internals *which i have done with no problems needed to replace for the swap 1.PB74 pilot bushing 1a. pilot bearing http://www.jcwhitney.com/1972-1975-jeep-cj5/crown-oe-replacement-pilot-bearing/p3049625d1166y1972-1975j1.jcwx 2.98 ax15 + transmission crossmember-(if going from ba10/5) 3.98 clutch kit 4.98 master slave assembly from donor (do not need to remove the assembly two, can remove as a whole unit) 4a.pre-bled master slave assembly from rock auto (worth doing it right the first time) everything else remains the same, do not forget to get the torx e-12 socket for the two upper bolts, every bolt is accessible easily from below if you have enough extensions and lower the tranny a bit (do the top first so you can raise the transmission back up for the final bolts removal) and there are 2 sheetmetal screws on the inspection plate panel, if not removed your going to have fun trying to pull the tranny you can have it done in 4-4.5 hours if you go steady, air tools will increase that time even more

swapping trannys/ bell housings are about the same efforts, If your old tranny is known to be better than the 95's then go for the swap of bellhousings, I'm sure you know, external is hyfar the way to go, for the exact reason your experiencing If your replacing your slave anyways, rockauto has a prebled master to slave for external ax15 which is definantly woth it

shouldnt be an issue, only thing that may be different is the pilot bushing, i forget what year they changed the input shaft diameter on the ax 15, pb74 is the part number for the proper one if need be

Thanks! I have not reinforced the rear framing yet... I was trying to come up with ideas. Have any photos or suggestions? you can just take some square stock, the same size as the frame and put it from end to end of frame rails, H3RESQ's thread on it http://comancheclub.com/topic/26632-project-h3-rescue-2/

Meaning? Don't tell us that you didn't upon buying, or haven't as a normal course of maintenance, checked you drivetrain lubrication fluid levels and condition...... woops long response fluids were good when i got it, i have just found out from experience that on any incline my tcase pours its fluid out through the rear seal and is shot off the driveshaft from centrifugal force if in motion, which i can reproduce :rotfl2: that seal will be replaced next week, now that the seal is known to be shot, they are monitored closely

:agree: :rotf:

if all else fails, try replacing the shimmable lca frame brackets ( inside removable ones) like i stated above, they get worn out after a while, making the lca bolt slap back and forth 1/8th of an inch or more, and will only notice underload if you can't get the track bar bracket tight enough, ive seen members weld it too the frame

i had an issue where death wobble wallowed out the lca holes on the frame side, so that shimmable bracket was an egg and would pop back and forth while turning left, and i have to laugh, on the first page you assured them you tightened the bolts, then turns out it was loose when it rains, i take a tarp and put it over me and the truck, and sit under the tarp with a lamp, thermal coveralls when its cold and snowing :thumbsup:

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from albeeeerta hey? i grew up in ft mcmurray nice manche! need more pics

was the tcase fluid

its only while the transmission is being powered by the engine, when i disengage the clutch the noise goes away, i will check that tomorrow, could it have something to do with tcase fluid level? i noticed a drip, going to top up tomorrow in the sunlight