Pete M

RQD = required REC = recommended so the towing chart shows that to tow 5000 you need the 4.0 and other stuff. and yes you could have ordered a 2.5L/manual MJ with the Metric tonne added on. :thumbsup: the higher gvwr was still well within the gcwr for a 2.5 with a trailer behind it.

:rotf: Doritos. Or Club crackers. or those new Pretzel crisps thingies. or mini Triskets with cheese on top.

In the end it won't matter. We're talking about a tiny, tiny fraction of an degree change. Plus you'd be amazed as to what sort of angles a U-joint will happily spin through as long as it is doing the same angle since new. :thumbsup:

sorta. supposedly those numbers are for a 2.5L equipped truck. since the 4.0 drivetrain weighs more, either the 4.0 gvwr numbers will be higher, or the 4.0 truck has a reduced payload. and it looks like the 4.0L gvwr is higher to keep the payload numbers the same.

technically, if one tire sticks out 1/2" more than the other side, the axle is off by 1/4". :peek: I'd be inclined to ignore a quarter-inch mistake if it meant re-welding the perches. :yes:

found this just 10 feet off my parent's deck... dug it up and put it in a pot so my sis could take it in to show her grade schoolers. :yes: after that it'll likely be pressed in a book. never thought I'd ever see one. :eek:

when was the last tune up? how do the spark plugs look?

I just heard that the russian's uniforms were made in the US. :yes:

You're very welcome. :cheers: That's what we're here for.

it's no the angle of the middle part of the bar that you're working with, it's the imaginary line between the mounting points that matters. :thumbsup:

For starters I blew the spider gear apart and and put a nice size crack in the shaft. If the gears didnt blow apart I'm sure the shaft would have twisted off. earlier in the day I did a couple burnouts where I rolled backwards about 10mph or so and dumped the clutch then later on I was driving normal and thats when the gears let go. Took the cover off and their was a few pieces that fell out. might need to step up to a Dana 60 if you're going to be doing that with a v8. :yes:

interesting. what part of the 20 failed?

I doubt anyone makes an upgrade kit for our AMC-20s. We don't share widths with either the SJs or CJs. and your 20 should be able to handle a mild v8 just fine. :thumbsup: nah, still in GA. should be driving home Saturday though.

The only upgrade I remember hearing of is the 1-peice shafts. :dunno: and the CJ shafts would be too short for your axle so even if you bought them they wouldn't work. Don't worry. You'll never need an upgrade anyway. The AMC 20 found in MJs is plenty strong in stock form. :thumbsup:

don't bother with the junkyard. they are likely as bad as yours. it's a common issue with all sorts of cars/trucks. I've replaced them in about a dozen different things so far. hardest was the 96 grand marquis. that one sucked. :ack:

In this case, Renix is the name applied to the early years of engine electronics (86-90) with the later years being Chrysler. To get a 4.0 swap going you will essentially need a complete 4.0 donor MJ/XJ as the 2 powerplants share very little. but you won't be restricted to the old years. you can pick any year XJ/MJ and swap the entire thing in. Plenty of guys have done it.

:cheers: sure is hot down there... :ack:

members can include pics in their posts from day 1. :thumbsup:

or in the springs under the seat. :thumbsup:

I'm always cautious about taking any advice from someone that stands to profit from it. Just seems to be way more a-holes out there then stand-up individuals anymore. :dunno:

the records only go back so far unfortunately. :( 88 would be the AMC era and chrysler doesn't have that data.

glad you're feeling better! :cheers:

It was what the parts store sold specifically for this application. :dunno: works great so far. have one on the minivan too. :thumbsup:

a rubber O-ring stopped my oil plug from leaking. :D are you in 4wd on the highway?

well, I guess what else is there to do with a $40k wheeler in an empty parking lot...