rocketwheels

Cool, i saw those., too.....thx

There was a set of the lace pattern alumn wheels from a grand cherokee somewhat local for 75$ , id rather have steel wheels so I'm gonna keep looking. That steel wheel on the early 2000s wranglers would do nice.....are they 15 or 16 inch?

Scottjeep, that craiglist link didnt work, what was the title?

In "other make" wheels, they need to be 15 inch as i have relatively new tires and a small budget

Front and rear offset? Bolt pattern ? And what other jeeps (and other makes) share the pattern? Reason I'm asking is my super cheap Western Wheels are starting to rust at the bead , causing the tires to leak down. They are probably a "day 2" owner added item and have aged to their limit. I have seen the aluminum grand cherokee wheels on mj, but thinking of ordering new versions of the old steel"wagon wheels" , don't know what the offsets are or the bolt pattern......

Hey! Sorry so lateto respond, yes mines a '88 with the big 6 / 5spd , should be a match. How much for it? I figured that if someone cut it off the harness with several inches of wire hanging out, i could but splice it in by matching the wires, not having to remove the whole harness. Let me know what you think.

Buckwheat, that sounds like a plan!

I generally like LEOs in my area, if the cops up north diddle you for brake lights half working....its no wonder they keep getting shot at! Here in 'Bama, all vehicles are required to have 1 working taillight and 1working brake light ( law on the books since the 40's, no one has changed it)..... doesnt matter how many lights were installed on the car by the factory ( we don't have yearly inspections here either). They have been known to pull us over to remind us the light is out, but usually a ruse to check you for dui.same with "directional" blinkers.

So what is the proccedure or order of operations getting the speedo cable back onto the instrament cluster? I can't get my hand up inside from the back far enough, and there is not enough slack to slip the clip on while sliding the cluster into place. You guys that do thisall the time, how do you go at it?

I had the jolting issue, too. Mine turned out to be the distributor, the hold down ear was cracked, letting the dizzy rotate slightly ... mine would idle fine and also hammer down just fine....my bucking was intermittant and only happened while trying to hold a constant speed on the highway...eventually got so bad truck was undrivable, found the broke ear while changing the injectors and plugs, caps and wires. Just another place to look.

....if anyone is tossing a wire harness that happens to have a good fuse box (both halves), let me know, am willing to buy just the box as long as a length of the wires are still sticking out of it so i can just splice it in. Any thoughts? Not looking for restoration quality, just a patch in for a good running truck that had the clutch/brake fluid leaking into the fuse box issue. Thanks!

....if anyone is tossing a wire harness that happens to have a good fuse box (both halves), let me know, am willing to buy just the box as long as a length of the wires are still sticking out of it so i can just splice it in. Any thoughts? Not looking for restoration quality, just a patch in for a good running truck that had the clutch/brake fluid leaking into the fuse box issue. Thanks!

Hey, had an update and more thoughts on this charging issue....the trick Gene had with the 10 amp resistor works, but the resistor has gotten so hot it burned off all the shrink wrap and the wire insualtio close to it. Still works, though. 2nd, i now have a very slow battery drain, maybe caused by this alteration , maybe not....just added a battery disconnect. 3rd , never did find the area were the wire has the issue, but as some of you may remember, my fuse box is totally shot, melted and deformed due to heat generated by the damage caused by brake fluid dripping down the fuse box for no telling how long by the previous owner. That may be were the alt wire connection is having the bad connection. Anyways , Genes "by-pass the ignition/alt light at the alternator" trick works, just be prepared for the heat generated at the connection, and a possible slow battery drain. I guess i will look for another harness with fuse block for a future project!

Did you figure out the stall out problem? Was it the nss?

WELL ...... ol' Sgt Rock is producing juice again, thanks to Gene and his "I want to get this up and going" plan. I ground the system out and the Batt light did not burn, and after several days of tracing harnesses and cleaning connectors, it was still a "no go". So ... (lucky I live in Huntsville, where everything is just a few minutes away)... after a trip to Radio Shack for the Resistor, and a swing by the local hobby store to borrow a small piece of wire and the soldering iron, I performed said "bypass surgery" on the Alternator Harness Pigtail....then ran down the street to O'Reilys for a quick check with their portable Batt/Alt checker and....VIOLA ! .... output is normal, alt checked good. Now, if I could just get the danged Speedo cable back into place after pulling the cluster out, my big fat hands just don't fit up in and back behind the cluster to re-seat the cable straight. Thanks Gene and Hornbrod !!