Pete M

haha! :rotf: no. no kids on the way (that I know of :peek: ) it's just that August was the first time I didn't turn the calender page on time and, sure enough, it's my truck on it. :doh:

I can see the photos. :dunno: make sure your computer is accepting cookies from the photos' host site.

no. 4wd is still controlled by your t-case lever. :thumbsup: this mod simply makes your 2-piece axle shaft into a 1 piece axle shaft. The CAD was a well-meaning attempt by Jeep to try and gain MPGs and reduce wear. Too bad it does neither and just causes headaches for owners. :shake: all Jeeps after the early 90s have a one-piece axle shaft (with the 95 YJ being the last one).

finally flipped over to August on my Comanche Club calender... 22 days late... :shake: oh well. :rotf:

rule #3: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16664 :D

4.10s at least. :thumbsup: but regearing is an expensive proposition (300-500 per axle). Usually a better option is finding junkyard axles with the gears you want. 4.10s are usually found in 2.5L/5speed XJ/MJ fronts. and 4.10s are fairly common in Explorer 8.8 rear axles. also, 33x10.5" tires are much easier to fit than 33x12.5". :thumbsup: WJ arms work for lifts up to 2", maybe 3" if your truck has enough adjustment in the control arm mounts. They are the same length as MJ LCAs, but have a bend in them for tire clearance.

just my 2 cents but for a daily driver (without regearing) I would go with: 2" pucks up front Chevy drop shackles int eh rear WJ control arms 31" tires You're going to hate those 3.07s

nah. they would hit the back of his head as he got older. but eventually I intend to put some spot lights on the front bumper. :yes:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415 Do this and all those vacuum lines are rendered pointless. :thumbsup: don't worry, 4wd is still controlled by your t-case. this mod will just make your truck like any Jeep after the early 90s with a one-piece shaft up there. :yes:

planning on changing gears in the axles?

Have you bypassed the CAD in the front axle yet?

it wasn't the "air" part of the intake that failed. Ford tried to integrate the coolant crossover (previously made of aluminum) into the rest of the plastic and did it in, um, poorly. :yes:

sittin' pretty. :D my solution for mounting the wheels. washer/Pex pipe/washer/pex adapter/Pex pipe/pex adapter and that's a rubber 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" plumbing adapter I've found that the Pex adapters have a slightly smaller inner diameter and fit the axle shaft better so they go where the bearings ride (axle shaft is 7/16", the wheels were designed to ride on a 5/8" shaft). But they are short and more expensive so regular pipe fills in the rest. If any of that makes sense. :nuts: Works great though! :yes: Fixed the saggy suspension with part of a 8x8 L framing strap. :thumbsup: drilled out the steering pivot for a tighter fitting bolt (than the rivet that was there before). Everything is nice and tight, but I've got some toe-out. not sure if it affects anything though. and the factory brace got a couple screws to hold it centered.

progress is being made. :thumbsup:

just get a 3.4 and drop that in. :thumbsup:

how did you lift the rear? SOA? 4wd leafpacks? if so, 2wd ones will lower the truck a bit.

I'm not saying the cooling issues can't be overcome, I'm saying that someone looking into a v8 conversion needs to expect to go all out. :yes: (and fwiw, others have installed big rads and still had issues)

what in god's name makes you think Jim is telling the truth? :rotf: v8s have been done. be prepared to spend tons of money and fight cooling issues. :thumbsup:

wrangler parts will work ok. you might need to massage the floor with a hammer. I have TJ stuff in mine and there's no contact at all. You'll want to use your current AX-5 shifter handle. for a rear d-shaft, you can just have your current one shortened. :thumbsup:

that is how I understand it. :thumbsup:

how old is the sensor?

yes, but I doubt I'll get enough interest to justify it. especially since the can coozies work with bottles just fine. :thumbsup: