Pete M

I'm guessing bleeder screws for a dana 44's brakes.

there's no need to copy the factory routing. I ran a new line straight back along the bottom edge of the frame rather than tuck it way up there to rot again. :thumbsup:

what gear ratios are in them?

holy crap am am I blind. :doh: I even looked up "sheet metal and didn't see "sheet metal" right there where it clearly says "sheet metal". :rotf: at $40 a side, it doesn't really offer much profit. :dunno: guess it'll be a charity purchase like usual. :yes:

what did you find that under?

car-part.com might be able to help with expected costs. :thumbsup:

anyone know what the Pull-A-Part brand yards charge for random bits of sheetmetal? specifically, I'm thinking of cutting out some MJ rockers to take back north. I don't see that choice in their parts pricing. :shake:

is a better gear ratio part of the plans?

in theory you should be able to buy a whole XJ for less than that. Either way I would keep looking for a later model with the 231 and AX-5. :thumbsup: (2.5L + AX-4 usually equals 3.55 gears so triple check before buying) and speaking of ratios, what ratio is that in your rear axle now?

it'll happen with our software upgrades, which are on delay til I'm back in michigan. :thumbsup:

2.5L + 4speed manual = 3.55 2.5L + 5speed manual = 4.10 but the only way to know for sure is to check. either pop the cover or jack up one rear tire, put the trans in neutral and rotate that tire around twice while counting the driveshaft revolutions. (if for some reason the rear axle has a posi, then rotate only once) just over 4 times = 4.10s three and a half = 3.55

I've only seen 2 so far in the pull-your-part type of junkyards. both were burned to a crisp and stripped of drivetrain. all I need is those silly 05+ sunviser clips, dang it! :fs1:

I believe the trans question refers to the second truck (with the 4.0L), which could be the BA-10/5 peugeot. :thumbsup: requires a metric square tool. 10mm maybe? most of us just grind down something to fit. MAke sure you can undo the fill plug before you even think of taking on the drain. :yes:

oh, and you might want to snag the female ends of the seatbelts too. buckets have a sleeve that holds them up so they don't keep falling to the floor. hopefully that's all the tips this time... :rotf:

and you'll be re-using your bench's floor brackets.

through 95. but avoid seats with the curved track unless you're short (they raise you up a few inches). and only 2-door XJs have seats that fold forward. :thumbsup:

Some guys have found minor interference with the floor when installing YJ/TJ transmissions, others have not. had no interference in mine. :dunno: a big hammer solved the issue for the others :D interference with the driveshaft is a new one to me. One thing I forgot, you'll want to re-use your trans shifter. the YJ one is different.

love it, love it, love it... :bowdown: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

whoops. looks like the official was 105. and at 5pm no less. gag. :ack:

yup. though it might rotate the t-case up a hair. which can be a good thing. :D

104* today in GA. soooooo glad I drove down here for all this. :fs1:

I split it off to be it's own topic :thumbsup: what rear axle do you have?

does it stop if you jiggle the key?

I swapped the spiders for a minispool in my 44 front. :thumbsup:

huh. I was told that only 4.10 and deeper needed that. weird. my 4.10s juuuuust barely wouldn't clear. even contemplated grinding a hair outta the gear like some others had done. well, it's still possible for an amateur to do, just infinitely more of a pain in the rear. make sure the bearing caps go back in the exact same orientation they are now, and have your torque wrench specs and locktite handy for installation. oh, and I got my carrier out using 2 crow bars. google should provide other methods if it's really stubborn. :thumbsup: