Pete M

:rotf:

1990 dealer brochure doesn't list a laredo.

you know you do. :D http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AUS%3A1123

even at 3" you might need lower control arms, sway bar links, brake lines, shocks and trac bar to avoid problems. 31s can work on a stock height 4x4 MJ if you stick with Jeep rims (MJ/XJ/TJ/YJ/KJ) so if you're looking for a cheap lift, longer shackles (chevy drop shackles) and pucks up front can be your best bet. If you want a 5" lift, save your cash and do it right the first time, don't make it a plan to bandaid a shorter lift kit. :thumbsup:

only if you had 4.10+ gears. the higher ratios (lower numbers) have enough clearance to get the crossbolt out. :thumbsup:

all of the above. 5"+ needs lots of parts. track bar, control arms (or drop brackets), brake lines, sway bar drop (or longer links preferably), etc.

Cory what shocks are you running? where are they mounted to the axle? got pics?

:cheers: thanks. quite proud of the old girl. and technically I sorta wrote it myself too. he wanted to hear my truck's story so I gave it to him. then he turned around and got lazy and just changed it to be from a 3rd person pov. :rotf:

nothing wrong with replacing a 2.8/d35/peugeot with another one (though try to upgrade if you can). just don't spend money repairing one. :thumbsup:

I mean, why are you guys needing to remove the valve covers? I'm guessing leaky gaskets?

what is prompting all these removals? :dunno:

you are right to fear it. one of the few things I would pay a pro to do. and it ain't cheap. :( but maybe you just munched the spider gears. those are pretty easy to replace. :thumbsup:

I'm guessing missing gear teeth, but really it could be anything. gotta pop it open and see. :thumbsup:

first crawl underneath and look at the floorboards. tap on them and poke at them to check for rot. after that, the easiest place to pull back the carpet is in front of the drivers/passengers feet. feel for wetness underneath as best you can. most trucks with moisture problems will have significant moisture underneath and you can feel it in the padding (or even smell it). check out your brother's Jeep and you'll see what I mean. :thumbsup:

My 88 was the first vehicle I'd ever bought myself (had been driving family hand-me-downs before that). Taught me a ton about how much it costs to pay someone else to work on it. :ack: I quickly learned all sorts of useful things. :D Things to keep in mind when shopping: the hardest things to change are the engine size, bed length and adding A/C. So if you want A/C and a 4.0l, don't compromise with a 2.5L basemodel. Best tidbit I can suggest is: ask first. There's a TON of geeky Jeep smartness here and we will do our best to help you avoid the common pitfalls and setbacks. :thumbsup: second best is: never ever sink any money into repairing a Dana 35 or a ba-10/5 trans. Your money is far better spent on upgrading them from a junkyard. :thumbsup:

a'ight, it would appear we're ready to start taking official orders. go here: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=36041 :cheers:

it is NOT recommended or condoned to turn off the engine. you lose power steering and brakes and you'll want both of those in an emergency. :thumbsup:

yup, tune her up to like-new and drive like you've only got 3 teaspoons of gas left in the tank. what size tires do you have?

Any AX-4 or AX-5 will go right in. they are all 21 spline outputs, so your t-case will need to be that also. if you want a 242 then you'll need an early one, 87-90ish, because after that they were all 23 spline. the spline counts for 8.25s are 27 and 29. 29 spline are found in 97+ XJs (along side the dana 35, so look before buying). don't know how many 8.35s came in 4.10 gears, but I would start with car-part.com :thumbsup:

I disconnected the lock button on the drivers door and so now I need the key to lock the door. haven't forgotten my keys yet. :D (and more importantly, I haven't locked them inside since) :yes:

yes. works the same as the 2.5L using the Dakota bellhousing trick.

if you reach down at the axle end, you'll find that there's an outer shell, a half inch gap, then an inner shell. that gap is where the rubber isolator resides. :thumbsup:

long as they are both longbeds. :thumbsup: is it a complicated hole? would it be easier to simply patch it?

:rotf: