Pete M

I believe the trans question refers to the second truck (with the 4.0L), which could be the BA-10/5 peugeot. :thumbsup: requires a metric square tool. 10mm maybe? most of us just grind down something to fit. MAke sure you can undo the fill plug before you even think of taking on the drain. :yes:

oh, and you might want to snag the female ends of the seatbelts too. buckets have a sleeve that holds them up so they don't keep falling to the floor. hopefully that's all the tips this time... :rotf:

and you'll be re-using your bench's floor brackets.

through 95. but avoid seats with the curved track unless you're short (they raise you up a few inches). and only 2-door XJs have seats that fold forward. :thumbsup:

Some guys have found minor interference with the floor when installing YJ/TJ transmissions, others have not. had no interference in mine. :dunno: a big hammer solved the issue for the others :D interference with the driveshaft is a new one to me. One thing I forgot, you'll want to re-use your trans shifter. the YJ one is different.

love it, love it, love it... :bowdown: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

whoops. looks like the official was 105. and at 5pm no less. gag. :ack:

yup. though it might rotate the t-case up a hair. which can be a good thing. :D

104* today in GA. soooooo glad I drove down here for all this. :fs1:

I split it off to be it's own topic :thumbsup: what rear axle do you have?

does it stop if you jiggle the key?

I swapped the spiders for a minispool in my 44 front. :thumbsup:

huh. I was told that only 4.10 and deeper needed that. weird. my 4.10s juuuuust barely wouldn't clear. even contemplated grinding a hair outta the gear like some others had done. well, it's still possible for an amateur to do, just infinitely more of a pain in the rear. make sure the bearing caps go back in the exact same orientation they are now, and have your torque wrench specs and locktite handy for installation. oh, and I got my carrier out using 2 crow bars. google should provide other methods if it's really stubborn. :thumbsup:

the truth remains that it likely won't be cheap, and it sure ain't going to be easy. certainly not in this insane heat. :ack: I would source a donor Jeep of the same era. and I'd convert to the newer r-134 at the same time. :thumbsup:

my 2 cents: MJ bench seatbelts and MJ bucket seatbelt are different. and I'm assuming MJ bucket seatbelts are the same as XJ seatbelts. just an fli for anyone raiding the junkyards :thumbsup:

what were you cutting with?

if your truck is stock height, you are pretty much limited to factory Jeep rims from an MJ/XJ/YJ/TJ/KJ/ZJ

or you can just leave your fenders right where they are. there's only a minor difference between new and old fenders.

10 inches is a wiiiiiide rim. won't work, sorry. too wide for your tires and even if you got wider tires, they will smash your fenders up pretty good.

My leafs flexed from one maximum to the other, no problemo. even had an extra main leaf shoved in there to help reduce spring-wrap. My personal view is that a many guys are running a front end that's a bit too flexy for most terrains. and combine that with almost no weight over the rearend, you get an unbalanced system. but either way, before going all gung-ho on fabbing in new leafs, find the spring rates of both and compare. :thumbsup:

yup. :thumbsup:

cleaned up.

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

54... 57... one of those numbers 'round there... :rotf:

d'oh. :doh: I knew that too. stupid brain :fs2: MJs leafs are only like 54 inches long so the chevys would be too long.