Pete M

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

I had a similar issue and it was a bad booster. :thumbsup:

the 8.8 is a great upgrade, but is a more in-depth project. the 8.25 will be much easier.

the 10/5 only bolts behind an inline 6, so either it's a 6, or it's not a 10/5. :thumbsup: If it is a 10/5, the yes you can use it. there are some differences though. the shifter tower is likely different and you'll want to swap over yours (I know for sure this is the case with the AX-15s, but haven't seen a wrangler 10/5 to confirm). and you'll need the t-case shifter handle and linkages from an MJ/XJ. I'm assuming the 10/5 bellhousing in the wrangler will have the provisions for the MJ's CPS. as for the axles, you should have 3.07s under the truck now. I'd take the opportunity to swap both axles out for something with a better ratio. I'd go for at least 3.55s from a 4.0/auto XJ.

adjustable ball joints can only fix a small amount. if you can notice the problem with the naked eye, I have a feeling they won't tweak it far enough.

a 44 can be a hard find. you'll have a better shot at a 29 spline 8.25 from a late model XJ (97+). just about as strong and infinitely more available. but not all xjs had the 8.25, so you make sure you don't buy a 35 accidentally. :D oh, and earlier 8.25s will only be 27 spline. either way, give car-part.com a shot for junkyard searching. :thumbsup:

what year wrangler? what is your engine/trans?

don't forget the little steel bracket that attaches the back of the console to the trans tunnel. :thumbsup:

It's about as easy as welding gets. Just be sure to stitch it an inch at a time and move around so you don't build up too much heat in one spot. XJ perches are also on the top, and you'll need them on the bottom. :thumbsup:

snazzy! :yes:

because if I spent thousands upgrading the axles, I would mention it in the ad. :thumbsup: It reeks of someone half-assing a project just so it "looks cool".

oh those poor, poor little axles. :( I can already hear the wheelbearings screaming...

what exactly does your kit include? the one I have is a simple hose that connects the can to the low pressure port.

yes and yes. that's why I recommend the 355s. if you're running stockish tires, you don't want to get too crazy with the ratios. my 88 (3.07s) was running 30" tires and I got both performance and fuel economy back when I swapped to 3.55s. :thumbsup:

plenty for a $150 junkyard axle. :yes: try car-part.com but be sure to search for XJs and MJs and various years of them. newer is better, but any will do if they are in decent shape. any XJ/MJ rear axle will go in with minimal effort. and other Jeeps will too (KJ/ZJ/YJ/TJ), but you should have no trouble finding a cheap 3.55 geared XJ axle. Do you have access to basic tools? jack? stands?

do you have a fill kit? (the hoses that connect the can to the truck)

how would you get your hands on more R-12? or did you convert to the newer R-134?

well if he did stop by, he might have left. you guys sure haven't exactly rolled out the welcome mat with all the negative comments. :dunno:

I think he's wondering what color does the state think it is.

not a lot of oxygen at the bottom of a peat bog. :thumbsup:

step one is to get rid of those crappy 3.07 gears. 4.0/auto XJ/MJs will have 3.55s behind them and are everywhere. :thumbsup: what size tires are you running?

neat :D why exactly was that last bit of info included? :hmm:

is there something broken in your current setup? I ask because the only thing wrong with the internal slave is that when it fails, you have to drop the trans to replace it. to convert to an external, you have to drop the trans and thus either way you'll be dropping the trans. as long as you use a Jeep factory slave (aftermarket ones have a poor track record), there's nothing much wrong with just keeping the internal design. it should last another 150k miles. :thumbsup:

sweet! :thumbsup: moving to the tech forum...

money is money. certainly could be worse. :yes: