Abyx

Hey guys, I've got an 87 4.0 with the C101 connector. I'm having an issue where once the truck gets into closed loop, the idle will randomly act up. It runs "Totally" fine when in open, or if I unplug an engine management sensor. However my mileage is horrendous when I do that. There is no evidence of a vaccum leak, it NEVER idles incorrectly in open loop. I'm kind of at a loss, the idle varies from 1000-1400rpm once the problem starts. Sometimes it drops sometimes it creeps higher the longer it sits. I've adjusted the brand new TPS(which I'm about to return), and yes I have verified I'm getting a good ground at the dipstick tube. I've got a new O2 sensor, and the IAC seems to be in good working order due to it not having this problem outside of closed loop. My next plan of action is maybe the IAC isn't grounding properly? But I have no way of determining if I can ground that to the block or if it goes through the computer. Normally in the summer I just unplug everything and run it like nothing happened. But it's been extremely cold here in jersey and I'm not having any luck. Any suggestions?

Pepboys carries the individual components to the AX-15 "Plastic" style MC/Slave set up. I know for a fact that they have the master and slave because I've bought them there. They're LUK brand. As a note; everyone says you can't bleed this system which is false; and they also say you can't disassemble them which is also false. It's a matter of removing a roll-pin(roofing nail fits perfect), changing an O-ring and repeating the steps backwards. Bleeding can be accomplished by manually pumping the slave cylinder rod with your hand. The system also self bleeds itself when acutated.

I have an 8.25 with Grand Cherokee D35 brakes; works just fine. I don't even HAVE a preportioning valve; they can lock up my 35s if I want them too. Why exactly does 'everyone' reccomend KJ brakes for the 8.25? What's the difference??

If you want terrible tires; get a set of Thornbirds. If you're going to do something that you know is wreckless; don't go talking about it. People are inherently good, and don't want to see others hurt. When you announce the intention of potentially, unintentionally or not - hurting yourself; people jump to stop you. Hence why they want to put safety nets on the Verrazono bridge. I'd suggest google next time.

I'm in agreement with Eagle here. It doesn't make sense to account for crown in the road; because more often than not the crown gets worn away, or simply isn't there. That being said; I put my old axle back in my truck and removed my axle shafts. I'm now a believer in the 4wd Disconnect system...mileage shot up to 18mpg; that's driving through New York City during a rain storm at rush hour on 35s and 3.55 gearing. Also; my alignment is spot on what it used to be, and I have no issues driving straight or pulling like it did with the other axle. Additionally, the measurements are now even on both sides. :thumbsup: Can anyone chime in further on literally removing the pinion, carrier and races from the bent axle and placing them in my old axle??

Hey man thanks; that's some good info. By baffle, do you mean the oil slinger?? I was thinking that since the bearings only have 70k miles on them; I'd do something along the lines of pop the carrier out, pop the pinion out, pop the pinion race out; and just put it all back together in my good axle.. is that a bad idea? I'm most concerned about the crush sleeve being the issue; and my gut says it will be. I don't really have money to buy new bearings right now, building a business eats up everything..unfortunately. Having 4wd isn't really a priority so if I can't use what I have, for now I'll go without. I ended up swapping the old axle back in; I can't find what's bent..but taking new measurements; something is bent, I think across the entire axle, a 1/16th here, 1/16th there...it all adds up.

Since you say you checked the axle and it's not bent, obviously the problem has to be either the mounts on the axle, or the drop brackets ... unless your control arms aren't the same length. How are the drop brackets installed? Is the caster adjustment made at the lower end, where the lower control arms mount, or at the upper end where the drop brackets mount into the original LCA mounting pockets? Are you certain both drop brackets were installed in exactly the same fore-to-aft position? I had typed this out previously on my phone, and then my phone had decided to go kaput so I lost it on the other post; here's how the brackets were installed previously. The drop brackets get bolted onto the stock mounts via the upper control arm bolt and a spacer, the lower control arm bolt, and they're secured to the rear of the mount via the bolt holes for the alignment shoe. From the bottom mount; the shoe gets bolted in. Being as I was running stock control arms; I doubled up the shoe shims from 1/8" to 1/4" to account for proper pinion angle as per the specs I found online...with my previous axle; I had ZERO alignment issues. I'm a cabinet maker; my number one tool is a tape measure; I know I had it right. ;) Once again; the mounts on the axle itself; from the leading edge of the drop bracket to the leading edge on the mount; is 13 1/4", or 13 1/8" depending on how the tape is held. This is true for both sides. I have an RE-adjustable track bar and drop bracket which is correctly set for the 6.5" lift coils that I have. I did NOT have this issue prior to the new axle. The issue is the new axle. Upon the comment about the steering C being bent; I went out and stepped about 20' from the jeep and stared at it...the passenger side tire(the one with the issue) has..well, incorrect camber. So I'm assuming either that the C is bent, the balljoints are broken, or that the steering knuckle is broken. I'm going to look into it some more, if that turns out to be the case...old axle is going back in; and if the internet says I can safely swap used bearings + shims and races between the axles..I'll do that. Got nothing to lose except time, realistically.

It's not the drop brackets or the mounts, I've never had an issue with the mounts before as much as I dislike RC I got them for free so I can't complain. Their stuff does suck though... walmart brand lift kits. I wallowed out the holes with a 1/2" until they fit, and I know for a fact that they are in the correct position.. Do the inner Cs bend easy? Again there isn't any indication, I can see them bending causing camber issues, but 5/16" out? I'd think that'd be visible..

Hey guys, I'm hoping someone can chime in here with some kind of tidbit that I'm missing. I'm going to describe where I'm at the best that I can; this is kind of difficult and I'm in a rush so bare with me. Alright, 6.5" lift, RC Drop brackets. My problem is, the passenger side wheel is approx 5/16" further back than the driver side. Recently I had to swap my Dana 30 with another Dana 30. I got it from a buddy for scrap price because the axle had been in an accident. I looked over the axle EXTREMELY well; I took a straight edge to it, I checked measurements..there is ZERO indication that it is bent; not even an inkling of a maybe..there's just no evidence(However it's entirely possible that it is in fact bent.) The only problem, was that the lower control arm mounts were sheered off; I ordered these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Rubicon-LJ ... 4ab958dc2d They came in two days, they're very very nice; and the price sure is right! However; the bolt hole is 1/2" and they're approximately 3/8"s shorter than stock brackets. I wallowed out the holes to 9/16" and welded them to the axle in the stock location after taking measurements. These guys are straight; there's no way that they aren't..I completely removed the old mounts. Measuring FROM my drop brackets to my new mounts; the measurement is almost exact, the most it might be off is about 1/8" due to tape measure placement.. But, the tires are still sitting uneven. So as far as I can tell, the axle itself is straight, but the tires are crooked... I literally stripped my old axle of everything except the steering knuckles and balljoints and swapped it over...but I find it really hard to imagine that a ball joint is five sixteenths out of whack..that's a lot. But I don't know what else to look for. I'm going to swap control arms around to see if that'll take up the 1/8", and then maybe there's 3/16" between the balljoints? The problem is, that the axle was hit directly in the tire; so I'm not sure how an X axis impact would affect a Y axis location. Any ideas?

Are you running a Cherokee drive shaft?

The AW-4 is longer than the AX-15 as well, so if you swap for the longer slip yoke and go from there...you'd probably be better off. You might just save yourself 500$ on parts you shouldn't need. I know you didn't ask me, but here's my set up for some reference, it sits with a 1" rake. 6.5" Rustys coils, RC drop brackets, stock control arms, 4wd leafs, C8.25 SOA and RC shackles(they're about the same length as the MJ ones.) I have 6.5 in the front and 7.5 in the rear.

I do have some vibes, but they could be for a couple reasons. The first is completely un-related to the drive line. My exhaust has always sat a little low (even with a new trans mount) and it rattles against the trans cross member. My other issue is that the drive shaft is really too short. There isn't much contact of splines between the output shaft and the slip yoke. Its possible that having a slightly longer drive shaft might solve my problem. I'm going to take some measurements this weekend and see if I can come up with a standard length in another vehicle that might suffice (lwb 4x4 shaft?) The reason for the shims is because I had a separate axle set up for the SOA. The shop that welded them on wasn't able to put it up under the truck to accurately measure the angle. Essentially, they just guessed and got it as close as they could. See if you can get a longer slip yoke. I had a Cherokee with an AW-4/242 in it..the slip yoke was about 1.5" shorter than the slip yoke that I got with an AX-15/231. I run the AX-15 one right now, again on 7.5" of lift in the rear...no problem. The NV231 TC came with about 6 or 7 different options; you might consider going to a JY and pulling slip yokes until you find one that's longer. I flex the crap out of mine, I have no issues.

You shouldn't need a CV drive shaft and slip yoke eliminator... I'm running 7.5" of lift, a C8.25 and dry rotted 35s..I have zero vibration, stock drive shafts and a slip yoke in the back of the TC... Are you positive that it's not something else? Also, I do not have shims in my axle; I have the perches set the same as they are out of a cherokee. Without a double cardigan joint drive shaft, the pinion should be parallel with the TC, not pointed at it.

That's basically what happened with one of ours....I "fixed" the problem by replacing the feeder sleeve(Real PITA if you don't know what you're doing, which I didn't.) and lubing up the part where the coil of wire spins on - with WD40. Worked for a little while then the welder basically died. They just eventually stop burning with any sort of penetration anymore. http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/mig ... icles.html Here's everything you need to know about NON-structural/life bearing welding. Read it as many times as you need for the info to soak in; MIG welding is as simple as it gets. My two tips - 1. Wear long sleeves 2. Don't buy wire from a super hardware store; go to tractor supply and buy the Hobart wire. It's 10x better.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36300&hilit=ranger+bench Here's some info on a ranger bench seat swap; also there's info in there on the dakota bench seat swap. Both are good options, but IMO I like the ranger seat better because the bench is even with the buckets.