Pete M

3" kits are designed to work with a 3" lift. you're looking at a 5.5 inch lift. you're going to want a 5.5" lift kit. :thumbsup:

yup. it's been done (I remember seeing a latemodel XJ conversion done with taillights included), but you'll need some good steel fabbin' skills to make it look factory.

found some shift tools online... :D

man that looks like fun!

Welcome to the South, my friend. At least you have a decent garage though :brows: I got no trees, and no garage. Just a pile of dirt and some stumpy grass to lay and wrench on. :wrench: Better than concrete though. Here in GA I've made peace with the droning noise of a box fan. :yes: instant breeze!

as many as it takes to keep them out of the scrapyards. :thumbsup:

yes, just plug it at the t-case and you'll be fine. :thumbsup: How does this CAD work? You apply vacuum to engage the front axle, and if you cut vacuum it disengages? So if I install the disconnect upside down, the "lack of vacuum" wil engage the axle? No, the CAd fork wants to be in the one posistion (probably held there by a spring). If you do as Bounty says, part of it is removing all the vacuum lines. no vacuum will be applied to anything anymore. :thumbsup:

The XJ straight and MJ buckets have the same straight sliding track parts. the only difference is the floor brackets (MJs and XJ have very different floorpans under the seats).

corrosion in the wires?

94 then :thumbsup:

I would still buy a good set of curved-track seats, but I wouldn't install them without the straight tracks from another jeep.

have you taken it to an auto parts place to have it tested?

RQD = required REC = recommended so the towing chart shows that to tow 5000 you need the 4.0 and other stuff. and yes you could have ordered a 2.5L/manual MJ with the Metric tonne added on. :thumbsup: the higher gvwr was still well within the gcwr for a 2.5 with a trailer behind it.

:rotf: Doritos. Or Club crackers. or those new Pretzel crisps thingies. or mini Triskets with cheese on top.

In the end it won't matter. We're talking about a tiny, tiny fraction of an degree change. Plus you'd be amazed as to what sort of angles a U-joint will happily spin through as long as it is doing the same angle since new. :thumbsup:

sorta. supposedly those numbers are for a 2.5L equipped truck. since the 4.0 drivetrain weighs more, either the 4.0 gvwr numbers will be higher, or the 4.0 truck has a reduced payload. and it looks like the 4.0L gvwr is higher to keep the payload numbers the same.

technically, if one tire sticks out 1/2" more than the other side, the axle is off by 1/4". :peek: I'd be inclined to ignore a quarter-inch mistake if it meant re-welding the perches. :yes:

found this just 10 feet off my parent's deck... dug it up and put it in a pot so my sis could take it in to show her grade schoolers. :yes: after that it'll likely be pressed in a book. never thought I'd ever see one. :eek:

when was the last tune up? how do the spark plugs look?

I just heard that the russian's uniforms were made in the US. :yes:

You're very welcome. :cheers: That's what we're here for.

it's no the angle of the middle part of the bar that you're working with, it's the imaginary line between the mounting points that matters. :thumbsup:

For starters I blew the spider gear apart and and put a nice size crack in the shaft. If the gears didnt blow apart I'm sure the shaft would have twisted off. earlier in the day I did a couple burnouts where I rolled backwards about 10mph or so and dumped the clutch then later on I was driving normal and thats when the gears let go. Took the cover off and their was a few pieces that fell out. might need to step up to a Dana 60 if you're going to be doing that with a v8. :yes:

interesting. what part of the 20 failed?

I doubt anyone makes an upgrade kit for our AMC-20s. We don't share widths with either the SJs or CJs. and your 20 should be able to handle a mild v8 just fine. :thumbsup: nah, still in GA. should be driving home Saturday though.