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About raviolli

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    Titusville, FL

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  1. http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/4847363506.html
  2. guys, I need your help! I broke the far right pane of my 3 pane slider while trying to feed wires through the opening right under the frame (I didn't realize i was putting pressure on the metal frame enough to flex the glass itself) Luckily I got to it with clear tape in time...but i've been driving around like this for almost a year now Problem is, I hardly ever make it to this site....I'm located in central Florida and would consider picking up if relatively close (still in the region) if anyone can help :crossfingers: id really appreciate it if you contacted me at iamraviolli@gmail.com as well as here :thumbsup:
  3. Its been a while since ive updated my build thread...i mean like, possibly a year or two. Reason being, I moved out into the boonies where i have no internet service. I have, however been able to pull up my thread on my phone to show people. In fact, i did this last week. But today, I am visiting with my parents and brought my laptop to do an update....but now i can't find the thread. at all. searched several times and went through all posts in my profile. it cannot be found. Is there a cutoff point when posts get deleted in the project mj's forum? the title is "my '88 freebie"
  4. you'll have to unbolt the power steering bracket and i think it was the alternator bracket as well, but its all basic socket sizes. obviously valve cover to get to head bolts too. I lucked out with mine...only 3 of the 9 (i think it was) bolts actually existed for the intake and exhaust lol
  5. anyone on here ever bypassed their EGR? i know it could possibly make my cylinders run a little hotter, but anyone know if it'd be significantly higher? pros? cons? Ive got an '88 with a 2.5L tbi, and...well...funny story actually. i swapped in a 4wd ax-5 to replace my 2wd ax-4 and in doing so, i forgot to route my exhaust ABOVE the trans crossmember. (exhaust was unbolted at the cat) so instead of dropping the trans again, i decided to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold and re-route it that way. well...it is a jeep...so the first bolt snapped, and the second one rounded off before also snapping. in other words...'twas time to see what my lil four banger looks like without manifolds so i can get to these broken bolts. well my egr tube going from the exhaust manifold up through the intake and to the egr valve also broke. could just get a new one, but the end that bolts to the exhaust has a rounded off bolt that ill have to drill out, and the hole on the intake is completely stripped out. i think it was cross threaded. SO...for me to keep my egr...id have to buy a new tube, AND take my intake into a machine shop to have it reamed out, insert put in and rethreaded. or i was thinking of the simpler route and just deleting it completely since I'm thinking of getting a header. i would just put a steel plate over the hole on the intake manifold and for the time being (until i get a header), do the same to the exhaust
  6. Its been talked about....(i know, I've searched)...but I'm still going to ask. I'm thinking of putting a pace setter header on my 2.5L TBI but I'm wondering if itll clear everything underneath, mainly my front shaft. The facts we know: Pacesetter only offers a header for the 2.5l on wranglers The header will bolt up, but is not offered in a shorty design, however, i noticed with the down pipe included, the flange is right at the first bend, so it looks like it still hugs the oil pan for the same route, at least til it gets to the passenger side of the block. ...in other threads, people have mentioned that the amount of lift might effect clearance. Shouldnt there be more clearance for every bit of lift gained? I have 4.5"-5" of lift up front, however on the downside, my ax-5 is out of a wrangler so the t/c is clocked higher and i need my shafts cut to size yet. I'm running all new pipes all the way back, so I'm not worried about that....i just want to know if anyone could tell me if the header itself clears the front shaft in a stock ax-5 application with a moderate amount of lift
  7. i know you said $50 tops but ive got a working ba10/5 taking up space in my garage. ill let it go for $75 +shipping and you won't have to Frankenstein the two trannys. i was going to do a 4.0 swap but ended up picking up an ax-5 and keeping my four banger
  8. ive got a ba10/5....no t-case as i used it with the ax-5 i just installed (was gonna do 4.0 swap but ended up keeping the four banger). $85 + shipping?
  9. i snagged a factor 4spd knob off an xj from a local yard a while back but i just put in an ax-5 and now I'm using an 8-ball shifter....can't imagine it'd be much to ship something like that..
  10. would it be possible your clutch wore out prematurely? ive got an '88 with a 2.5L with a ax-4...swapped out my 3.55 D35 for D44 and D30 with 3.07s that I plan to regear and I'm sitting on 32's as well. mud terrains as a matter of fact, and I have no problem with 1st. I've actually been able to spin the 32s coming out of 1st on loose pavement as surprising as that sounds..
  11. http://spacecoast.craigslist.org/cto/3742636505.html
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