raviolli

http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/4847363506.html

guys, I need your help! I broke the far right pane of my 3 pane slider while trying to feed wires through the opening right under the frame (I didn't realize i was putting pressure on the metal frame enough to flex the glass itself) Luckily I got to it with clear tape in time...but i've been driving around like this for almost a year now Problem is, I hardly ever make it to this site....I'm located in central Florida and would consider picking up if relatively close (still in the region) if anyone can help :crossfingers: id really appreciate it if you contacted me at iamraviolli@gmail.com as well as here :thumbsup:

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Thanks Pete :cheers:

Its been a while since ive updated my build thread...i mean like, possibly a year or two. Reason being, I moved out into the boonies where i have no internet service. I have, however been able to pull up my thread on my phone to show people. In fact, i did this last week. But today, I am visiting with my parents and brought my laptop to do an update....but now i can't find the thread. at all. searched several times and went through all posts in my profile. it cannot be found. Is there a cutoff point when posts get deleted in the project mj's forum? the title is "my '88 freebie"

you'll have to unbolt the power steering bracket and i think it was the alternator bracket as well, but its all basic socket sizes. obviously valve cover to get to head bolts too. I lucked out with mine...only 3 of the 9 (i think it was) bolts actually existed for the intake and exhaust lol

anyone on here ever bypassed their EGR? i know it could possibly make my cylinders run a little hotter, but anyone know if it'd be significantly higher? pros? cons? Ive got an '88 with a 2.5L tbi, and...well...funny story actually. i swapped in a 4wd ax-5 to replace my 2wd ax-4 and in doing so, i forgot to route my exhaust ABOVE the trans crossmember. (exhaust was unbolted at the cat) so instead of dropping the trans again, i decided to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold and re-route it that way. well...it is a jeep...so the first bolt snapped, and the second one rounded off before also snapping. in other words...'twas time to see what my lil four banger looks like without manifolds so i can get to these broken bolts. well my egr tube going from the exhaust manifold up through the intake and to the egr valve also broke. could just get a new one, but the end that bolts to the exhaust has a rounded off bolt that ill have to drill out, and the hole on the intake is completely stripped out. i think it was cross threaded. SO...for me to keep my egr...id have to buy a new tube, AND take my intake into a machine shop to have it reamed out, insert put in and rethreaded. or i was thinking of the simpler route and just deleting it completely since I'm thinking of getting a header. i would just put a steel plate over the hole on the intake manifold and for the time being (until i get a header), do the same to the exhaust

Its been talked about....(i know, I've searched)...but I'm still going to ask. I'm thinking of putting a pace setter header on my 2.5L TBI but I'm wondering if itll clear everything underneath, mainly my front shaft. The facts we know: Pacesetter only offers a header for the 2.5l on wranglers The header will bolt up, but is not offered in a shorty design, however, i noticed with the down pipe included, the flange is right at the first bend, so it looks like it still hugs the oil pan for the same route, at least til it gets to the passenger side of the block. ...in other threads, people have mentioned that the amount of lift might effect clearance. Shouldnt there be more clearance for every bit of lift gained? I have 4.5"-5" of lift up front, however on the downside, my ax-5 is out of a wrangler so the t/c is clocked higher and i need my shafts cut to size yet. I'm running all new pipes all the way back, so I'm not worried about that....i just want to know if anyone could tell me if the header itself clears the front shaft in a stock ax-5 application with a moderate amount of lift

i know you said $50 tops but ive got a working ba10/5 taking up space in my garage. ill let it go for $75 +shipping and you won't have to Frankenstein the two trannys. i was going to do a 4.0 swap but ended up picking up an ax-5 and keeping my four banger

ive got a ba10/5....no t-case as i used it with the ax-5 i just installed (was gonna do 4.0 swap but ended up keeping the four banger). $85 + shipping?

i snagged a factor 4spd knob off an xj from a local yard a while back but i just put in an ax-5 and now I'm using an 8-ball shifter....can't imagine it'd be much to ship something like that..

would it be possible your clutch wore out prematurely? ive got an '88 with a 2.5L with a ax-4...swapped out my 3.55 D35 for D44 and D30 with 3.07s that I plan to regear and I'm sitting on 32's as well. mud terrains as a matter of fact, and I have no problem with 1st. I've actually been able to spin the 32s coming out of 1st on loose pavement as surprising as that sounds..

http://spacecoast.craigslist.org/cto/3742636505.html

I agree. Thats the main reason ive been looking for a full donor. plus id like to have the leisure of swapping everything over at my own rate and having everything readily available a few steps away. but...needless to say, curiosity gets the best of me when i torment myself on craigslist hoping for anything compatible..

so ive been searching high and low for a while now looking for a 4.0 for my swap and have had no luck yet. ive been mainly looking for a RENIX just because my 'manche is an '88 and all my swapped parts came from an '88 so far. I'm curious though....how much MORE would be involved if i used this? http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/3355955223.html are the motor mount locations different? i know wiring will be a bit different no matter what vehicle the motor comes from. how about drive shaft length since i have the shafts from another '88 with a ba10/5 (also have the pukey and 231 sittin in the garage)...i know my 231 is probably a different spline count as well but they arent hard to find. trans cross member? could i use the one from under the pukey? what all would i need to know about putting a wrangler 4.0 in an MJ?

also, how much work is it to make a cherokee harness work? the MJ is over a hundred miles away with 195k....i know i could find some cherokees with less miles and closer but no matter what, ill need a harness

oh wow....i guess i never really looked at the "wiring" before lol the '88 that i got my axles, tranny and t/c from had a small engine fire, so the vacuum lines that looked like wiring to me because they were wrapped, are melted on the one end. so theres four lines (a green, a blue, a yellow, and a red). all but the red go to a connector/clip type thing. from there on, mine is melted. is the red the one that goes to the CAD? what about the others? i really don't care about a 4x4 dash light....ive got a bulky lever that will be pointing straight up if i leave it in 4Low....I'm just trying to figure out where these lines go. its been pondering in my mind since i brought it home

thanks..thats what i thought but wasnt sure if there was any needed wiring for a manual. and what about the wiring going to the transfer case? is that just for a light on the dash or something? i think i might contact this guy...even with 195k, at least the initial 4.0 swap will be complete so if the motor goes, ill just need a new longblock. and its even got bucket seats, cargo light, good taillights, straight body, etc.

hey all, haven't posted in a while, I'm due for a question or two ive been looking for a donor for my 4.0 swap and have been finding a bunch of mj's lately in the area. most of which are 2.5's though :shake: and all the xjs seem to be newer and I'm trying to keep things simple and stay with renix (mines an '88). anyways, i found an '87 4.0 mj about a hundred miles away. runs and drives but has about 195k :ack: thats higher mileage than i want obviously but i might be able to live with it. i know these motors are known to be somewhat bulletproof. my main question is about the engine harness. the possible donor is a 4.0 auto 2wd and mine's going to be a peugeot 5speed and np231. ive never swapped motors before and electrical is my weakness but i have some connections with more knowledge in that area. would i be able to use the harness from it? :crossfingers: how much would be involved in splicing in what i need, etc. do i even have enough info to know?

hahaha yeahhhh thats just the answer i was looking for thanks again pete :cheers: i really don't know how i let this one grind the gears in my head...shoulda been a no brainer. i mean, i always wondered why (or how) different manufacturers could have different bends and angles in the bar if they always had to be parellel. must be a side effect of sleep deprivation :dunno: and yes, the track bar IS NOT bolted up. like i said earlier the bolt is too big for the bracket so its just hanging there by the passenger side. thanks everyone for the quick responses

after waiting a few months for my adjustable track bar to come in from 4wd.com, i finally got it, went to bolt it in only to find out i need a drop bracket (plus the bolt is bigger than the hole in the bracket :wall: ). probably should have looked into it a lil further before purchasing so theres a mistake on my part. i could have ordered a better quality part that included everything. but the more I'm looking at it, the more it just doesnt seem quite right. or maybe its just me because ive never lifted a 'manche before. i have 5 inches of lift up front, 3" RC springs and 2" pucks. here's the track bar bolted up on the passenger side and sitting parallel with the drag link: what doesnt seem right to me is the distance between the arm of the track bar and the mounting bracket on the frame. see here: is this right? seems like that would be a rather large drop bracket. a drop pitman arm would throw the angle way off in the wrong direction.. :hmm: i also noticed the stock track bar had a boot/bushing where it bolts to the driver side bracket. the new one has washers (even in the pics on the instructions) anyone wanna take a stab?

i went with them I appreciate everyones $0.02, and if i get noise after theyre installed, it won't be a mystery. but the pics look way worse than they actually are. what looks like rust was really just the grease that sat on them. i took a paper towel/rag to them and the stuff just rubbed right off. they shined right up except for a very few spots. i wouldnt even call it rusty spots, just discolored (grey, not rust-colored). feels completely smooth when you run your fingers across every tooth The source wasnt exactly unknown. the guy has an '04 wrangler and went to 5.13s right away. had them sitting in the box ever since. anyways, i appreciate all input. and once theyre installed, i assure you itll be on here somewhere how it goes

I'm gonna go take a look at em. maybe theyll look cleaner in person, but theres only one way to find out. if they look rough, its no biggie. I'm not ready for regearing yet anyways.