raviolli

a leak down test will tell me where the leak is (if there is one) is there any point in doing a compression test if i do a leak test? or will the compression test just tell me what i already know from the leak down?

it is a Chilton's manual. Here's a clearer pic taken from my dads phone rather than my own even the 2.8L showed a firing order of 1-2-3-4-5-6 :nuts: the only picture that seemed right was the 5.2l and even then i wouldnt trust this book. i suppose i should burn it :popcorn: I'm going to check the timing...probably on wednesday since i work both of my jobs both tomorrow and tuesday. if that doesnt help, it seems ill be pulling the head :headpop: it just sucks that i finally rounded up my brake parts and am just about ready for some tags....then this happens. plus i hate to do this kind of work when I'm planning a swap in the future. BUT! -- thats the beauty of the jeep curse i guess

i just want EVERYONE to see this its blurry, yes, but if you look closely, you can see I am not crazy :hmm: :shake: :no:

i always thought it was 1-3-4-2 ...thats why i was stumped when the book said otherwise. completely forgot it was stamped on the manifold lol airspeed: my original thought was a valve staying open when it shouldnt. its not backfiring anymore...just running extremely rough. i think running on only 3. hard to say, i don't want it running in this condition so i havent really listened to it. everyone ive talked to says check the timing but it came on so suddenly and i don't drive this truck. i doubt the timing would just throw itself off like that. and not to mention i seafoamed it right before it started running rough. probably got a bunch of gunk stuck on the valves in the process of burning everything out of it...thats my guess

tried that way and a few other ways last night. just kept getting backfires. this morning though i went to take my dog out and decided to give it another shot with the 1-3-4-2 so i popped the hood, plugged em in and she started up. still runs really rough though and backfires through the exhaust. i just don't get why the manual's gonna tell you 4-3-2-1 and then show 1-2-3-4 in the picture :huh???:

i thought so too...but i was looking at the wrong year. according to my manual (and we all know how accurate those are :roll: ) 1984-1988 2.5's had a 4-3-2-1 firing order and 1989-1996 2.5's had the 1-3-4-2 firing order

well i guess ill have to give that a try. its my only option at the moment but ill do it another day. Tonight ill skip to the end and "take a beer" :cheers: i guess i should get a new distributor too? also, thought this was funny, but at the same time, made this whole thing an even bigger headache. the manual shows a diagram...it says firing order: 4-3-2-1 also says: distributor rotation: clockwise looking at the diagram, starting with #1, going around clockwise, order goes 1-2-3-4 the book contradicts itself :fs1: :roll: :no: :mad: :redX: :nuts: :???: :shake: :huh???: :dunno: :doh: :wall: :fs2: :hmm: :thwak:

how do i get a motor to TDC if the engine is in the truck? ive never done it also, i put in a new cap and rotor and now its backfiring just like before, only with the smell of firecrackers under the hood :shake:

took the rotor out when the cap was off....put it back in. don't really know what else to check lol thanks for the responses so far, but still stuck here. i think I'm gonna go get a new cap and rotor. can't hurt

yeah after noticing i was looking at the wrong diagram, i also noticed that there actually ARE numbers on the cap. well, one number anyways. #1 is marked (raised, not printed)

my brake booster and master cylinder came in today so i made a trip to the auto parts store for some fluid, cleaner, booster vacuum hose, etc. and figured id get some plugs and wires while I'm at it since its been missing the past couple days. i changed all the plugs and wires, went to start it up and it was still going rough. then i noticed i was looking at the diagram for the wrong model year. (had the diagram out because i couldnt see the number on the cap and i don't do my wires one by one. why? beats me :nuts: ) so i got the wires correct and went to fire up, and got nothing but backfires up through the throttle body :hmm: :dunno: double, triple, quadruple, and quintuple checked the wires and firing order, etc. :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help:

in that pic? i see no snow...

i thought this was your "winter rig" ;)

3" Rough Country kit (coil springs, LCA's, sway bar drop brackets, AAL for the rear and shocks all the way around) sittin on 32x11.5x15 Dunlop Mud Rovers doesnt get much play time yet though. going to eventually swap axles (and motor/tranny/tc) and add more lift :thumbsup:

lmao no jumps yet...i actually don't even get to drive this rig to be honest. it was given to me almost a year ago and since then ive been piecing it together getting it ready for the road/trails. what the PO has done with it, is beyond me. it was my ex girlfriends dad. all i know is he used it to pull her out when she got her s10 stuck (which was all the time lol) its dark out and I'm getting ready for a christmas party for work but i went out and looked...the lower ball joints look fairly decent. probably somewhat new. the uppers arent so new. I'm not about to get my hands all grimey tonight, i should be dressing up at the moment but the uppers are definitely a possible blame. as for control arms, my uppers are stock, my lowers came in the 3" Rough Country kit for an XJ (shown below) thanks for the input so far :wrench: oh and i do plan on a 4x4 conversion, hopefully sooner than later, but i will need to drive this before then

hey all i noticed some pretty excesive negative camber after a 3" lift, but wasnt too worried because i had new tires and wheels on the way and was going to get an alignment done at the time of mounting/balancing. when i had it in the shop, getting aligned, the guy brought me in to see the measurements and everything was looking good. a lil bit off, but the guy was saying if i wanted him to put in a shim, he could, but it was so close that a single shim would throw it overboard. and its close enough to where it will not unevenly wear my tires. everything felt great driving it home, despite some slop in the steering wheel, but after i parked it, i noticed the same negative camber as before in this picture, the wheels are turned a lil bit to the right (to the left, when looking head on) so this isnt the best pic, but you get the idea. i havent had the front end in the air to check for play, but i was wondering if bad wheel bearings could cause this :dunno: ...sorry for the novel

id pay $100 for that one in a heartbeat :thumbsup: i like that look better than the factory rollbar

alright, here's another picture heavy milestone with my MJ :D got my tires in and on the truck they took up way too much space in my room so i had to get them mounted ASAP but first had to debate on whether to go white letters out or black out so i went and got some new lugnuts, emptied out all the trash from the bed and put the new goodies in the back. threw on the license plate from my DD and took 'er around the corner to the firestone shop. here's a pic with one new tire (lugs only finger threaded obviously) and one old ...couple more shots in the shop... got an alignment done too while i was there. here's leavin the shop, before the first ride got home and turned the wheel to where the tire comes closest to the fender, just to check clearance. no rubbing (at least with no flex in the suspension lol) ill probably have to trim a lil before any wheelin i plan on adding another 2" of lift whenever i swap axles. just throw in some pucks up front, order some new packs for the rear instead of AAL and get some shackles. then brake lines and shocks. i figure do it all at the same time as long as I'm going through the trouble of changing out the axles that way i only have to fight the coils once couple more pics...

every little bit helps went to the junkyard today with a buddy and found a cherokee with the 2.5 and a 4spd so i snagged the oil cap just in case it seals better than the one i ordered (which it seemed to be a little better) and took the shifter knob. both pocket sized so i only paid $2 (mine and my friends entry fee) so i went from this... ...to this... and it feels much better :thumbsup:

cragars have arrived dunlops should be here within the next day or two

my first thought was the booster but a heads up, i have a vacuum leak in my booster and found a reman. booster AND master cylinder on rockauto for somewhere around $100.my dad and i have been ordering from them for a while and have never had any problems

32x11.5x15 Dunlop Radial Mud Rovers have been ordered :typing: :popcorn:

ahhh see? round looks good when matched with the right amount of lift and the right bumper and/or guard

this is helping a lot with my decision :cheers: thanks for all the pics I'm really liking the round lights anywhere above the headlights. and the grille guard on that red XJ is exactly what i was talking about and dirteatr717 - i really like that rollbar....you should get the lights working :thumbsup:

thats what i was thinking too....but ive seen some good round ones as well. i guess it depends on if theres a brush guard or grille guard or anything like that. if i had a roll bar, id go with two big round ones (one on either side - furthest out) and probably four rectangular evenly spaced between them. but then id want a grille guard with maybe two round ones. the really simple looking guards that i see on here alot....you know, just a rectangle that covers the grille and nothing more