raviolli

:agree:

hmmm...never thought about the heat issue... i was going to do herculiner. i already threw away my carpet and insulation. it was wet and full of ants and bits of rust from the rotted floor. oh well....if you decide to go with rhino or herculiner, you won't be alone... just kinda kickin myself about the heat issue.....i live in FL :doh: oh well...ill be movin to ohio soon enough so...youve got heat, noise, and like boots said, the floor is far from being a flat surface. there are several grooves and creases, and one thing i thought about after getting rid of my carpet, my center console is going to have a pretty big gap between the bottom of the plastic and the tranny hump without the carpet and insulation there. i figured i would come up with something to fill the gap

oh yeah lol its like 1 step forward, two steps back when it burns through and youre chasing it :wall: its alright though...it reminds me of when i was still in school up in daytona. we were restoring a '68 GTO and it was ALL rust. the only original body panel on it is the roof. I'm gonna have to go back someday to see how its doin :popcorn:

okay, this is going to be a long post. i got some work done in the past week. my dad brought home a welder but its from harbor "fraud". theres no heat adjustment except for high and low, and even on low, i was burning through and chasing gaps. it might help if i use some smaller wire than .035, but oh well. plus I'm not used to welding without gas. but hey, i managed. ive got almost all of the passenger side done. i still have yet to touch the driver side. i just never got around to completely dropping the fuel lines. anyways, time for pics ...for those of you who have never seen a launch, here's from my driveway. i live in Titusville, FL which is right across the river from Kennedy Space Center. We tend to take the launches for granted after seeing so many... actually, I'm not even sure if this is a rocket or a shuttle. (thats how close we pay attention to the launches) but here's a pic, since some of you may have never seen one (or ever will) well back to the jeep. I'm not proud of this first patch. i didnt take my time and made it too small so i had a huge gap to fill :wall: i kept it so i wouldnt waste the sheetmetal though. lets just skip that one. its terrible. buttttt....it is new metal, and it can hold my "bouncing up and down on it" weight so itll do just fine here's after i cut out the next hole ..and a lil closer... made the patch and tacked it into place... once again i AM NOT proud of my welding here....i can do much better with a good welder, and gas. no pics to prove it, but i don't really care what you think :peek: :rotf: here's the next hole. the biggest. i cut out the rust and decided to just weld it right to the frame rail. i also left about an inch of a flange on the outside edge for some more support didnt have enough sheetmetal for all of it, but it was an easy patch to fab up :wrench: :D lil bit of weld-thru primer and some bare metal on the new piece... these welds were somewhat better due to a nice tight gap here's from underneath and here's peekin through the rear slider.. ...now a lil bit of self etching primer for now and thats it for today more to come

well theres your problem right there! :fool:

started grinding the rust a lil bit...then decided i needed to use a wire wheel so i got one for my die grinder and it did the trick put on a quick coat of self etching rattle can primer...just to keep my progress between days in the Florida humidity i havent even touched the driver side yet. i need to do something about the fuel lines before i start grinding and welding over there but more to come...ill be doing some more tomorrow :wrench: (i know it doesnt look like i got the rust off, but thats because i forgot to take pics while i was using the wire wheel. :wall: the shots taken before the primer were before i used the die grinder/wire wheel which is where all the progress came from)

your question has already been answered, but here's a pic of my 2wd. i just pulled the carpet about a week ago i was surprised to see it. never really thought about it before, but yes, that silver plate is just bolted in there

ughh finnnneeee ..you guys are spoiled :shake: lol anyways, as you can see here, the old cap was split in half so whenever i had the engine running, it would leak oil, and whenever i drove it, it would spit oil all over the engine bay. hence the thick layer of grease and grime on the underside of the hood and everywhere else in the pics

oil cap is in :banana: ...finally no pics though. i figure you all should know by now what that looks like

went to a JY in cocoa today and pulled a window for $20 :yes: goodbyeee trash bag also got my parking brake cable in today and installed that as well. just waiting on the oil cap still :shake: the window installed old cable vs. new cable the adjustment nuts on the old cable rounded out in no time so i had to cut the cable with a pair of pliers. was not that easy :rant: i still have some adjusting to do...the brake works now, but when i release the cable, the wheels are still locked up. the jeep needs some serious attention in the brakes department so once i get the wheels off, ill see if its in the drums or just a minor adjustment underneath

i would have to agree with everyone that it is easier, quicker, and cheaper to have someone do it for you. but if you really want some input, i have removed and reinstalled a windshield (front and rear) on a dodge neon when i was going to school for collision repair/refinishing. we didnt have the right tools either, considering even in a bodyshop, they still call in the glass companies. we just needed to do it so we could do a roof job. if you decide to do it yourself, you NEED to take your time. and expect to get a good workout in your arms. we took MIG wire and poked through the urethane in a corner of the windshield to be removed, wrapped both ends of the wire in vise grips, screwdrivers, or anything you might have that you can keep a good grip on. slowly but surely we made our way around in a seasawing motion. be very careful once you get towards the dashboard as the MIG wire will easily cut right through the plastic. just make sure you have the angle right. once all the way around, carefully remove the glass. to reinstall, (the answer to your question) as far as i know, you can only get the urethane in a tube. but even in a tube, applying the urethane is probably the easiest part of the entire procedure. just make a bead all the way around the windshield flange and spread it flat with a brush so you cover the entire surface where the glass needs to mate with the flange. MAKE SURE IT IS CLEAN BEFORE LAYING DOWN THE URETHANE! then carefully lay the glass in place. in the neon, there were little plastic stoppers that held it in the right spot. once its in, slap (yes, slap...with an open palm) the glass outward at the edges to get it to set in completely. pressing on it is just asking for an accident. ...still think you should save yourself the mess and stress and just call someone in to do it, but if not, we would love to hear how it goes :popcorn: (and see pics)

measure the thickness where you cut with a micrometer. theres plenty of conversion charts online. thats what i did when i had to buy new nipple rings and didnt know what gauge they were :rotf: (lost the end of one and was worried they'd come out in my sleep) turns out they were a 14g. but as long as you can read a mike, you can find out the gauge thickness

i was gonna say #4. Leprechauns for sure but it seems you've solved it ..its not that easy for me...i swear I'm gonna set a trap for those buggers :fs2:

idk about the foot pedal assembly (which is probably what youre talking about) but i just ordered the front half of the cable that runs from the foot pedal to underneath the bed where it splits off into two cables for each wheel for about $12 before shipping @ rockauto ..they also have the 2nd half which would be the two cables leading to the rear wheels for about the same price

alright. made some progress today. i got the seat out and completely gutted it so now ive got some good pics of the floor rust. gotta say, its not as bad as i expected :cheers: here's after the seat came out, before the carpet came up ..after carpet came out.. its not as bad as i was expecting. still a rust problem, but a lot of its just surface rust so ill probably just grinding everything down, patch all the holes, POR15 the whole thing instead of buying the floorpans from ebay ..here's the driver side.. pass. side ...and juuuussttt in case i decide to go for a joyride with no seats or interior, i think i should mount this license plate :rotf: ..now i ended up throwing away my carpet. i was going to keep it but after pulling it up, i found that i, too, had ants in my comanche pants. also had lots of rust pieces stuck to the insulation (which was pretty damp as well) so i figured i would just patch everything up and do my whole floor in a spray-on bedliner of some sort. itll make it easier to clean and itll hold up to the abuse of muddy or snowy boots

thats what i was thinking of doing but if the 3.55s and the 2.5 will take a beating turning the 31s then its not worth it to me. i need to take it easy since this motor is tired looks good tho

for some reason when i responded to mnkyboy, i didnt see the responses from Dechion and dasbulliwagen :dunno: @ Dechion: any info is good info. I'm running 235/75s on both my mj and my gmc jimmy. and like i said, my girlfriends mini cooper got through without a problem when i was up there. i was pushing through parking spaces with at least 6 inches. i will need new tires once i get it on the road (whether in FL or OH) and i just want it to look a little bigger. ill probably look into 31s or 30s but i might just end up with 235/75s again which is no biggie. and while i was up there and saw trucks fishtailing (mostly for fun) i decided i would end up putting weight in the back anyways @ dasbulliwagen: i figured i would look for a 5spd in the future. i just wasnt sure if it was possible to keep my AX-4 and convert. at least until i found a 5spd. I'm just going to stick with 2wd until I'm settled in and have money to buy a donor. and well, i guess now that i think about it, i probably should just get 235/75s again. I'm really not worried about getting stuck in snow. my girlfriend always told me stories about how her dad had to pull her s10 out when she got stuck. and how the jeep pulled through sand and mud when 4x4s were getting stuck. I'm mostly just concerned about making it reliable transportation. its got 267k right now. I'm gonna change the oil, air and fuel filters, change vacuum lines and plugs, seafoam the hell out of it and see where that gets me :thumbsup:

I'm still waiting on my oil cap to come in, but payday was yesterday and i also ordered a parking brake cable from rockauto also drove it around the block today because i went to do some yardwork for my grandpa and his mower wasnt running right so i threw mine in the back of the mj. well i got there and my mower wouldnt even start so i just drove back home. but on the way home (around the corner) i noticed how high my idle got. I'm hoping its just a vacuum issue :dunno: it was weird because the further i drove, the higher it got. i got into 3rd and when i took it out of gear, it was roarin... i didnt even need to give it any gas to get into 2nd :hmm: at least its not even registered to be on the road. i have time to fix these little things :wrench:

ahhh yes forgot it was a baja truck

no prob I'm in the same boat...need the money, and need a welder (or at least need to borrow one from a buddy)

..just out of curiosity... with all the time and money going into a big long arm lift and everything else, why still 2wd? all in all a great lookin truck though :popcorn:

looks just like mine if you want to spend the money (hopefully ill have the money before they sell out) there is floorpans on ebay for $45 each (driver side or pass side) and yes, that is the parking brake cable

lol wow youre still runnin 3.55s? ..my poor engine is going to thank me when i do as little as an oil change :rotf: my girlfriends dad doesnt really take care of his vehicles (he was going to scrap it but i saved it) although he has kept it up and running for a while. its got 267XXX miles on it. I'm really really hoping that i can change filters, plugs, wires, and vacuum lines and won't have to do any internal work for a while. like i said, once i get to ohio, thats when the real work begins, but my plan is to just give it a major tune up and sell my primary source of transportation so i can fund the move. it runs and drives great now but i have my doubts. it was parked for at least a year before i towed it home. brakes are terrible though...i need to look into that before driving it anymore

yes yes now my brain is working again....i can feel the burn through reading around on the forum, ive heard that the 3.55 gears are pretty much garbage for any kind of wheelin. well here's my situation...I'm trying to get my mj to be pretty reliable (not perfect, but a dd) so that i can paint and sell my GMC so i can afford to move to Ohio to be with my gf. this is just temporary. once I'm up there and settled in, i will find a new dd and start turning this into my weekend toy (thats when ill be concerned about 5spd and bigger lift). though since i am moving up north, it wouldnt be a bad idea to have 4wd before the first winter (if i can afford to do the swap here in fl). I'm thinking only a budget lift and 31's for the snow (whether its 4x2 or 4x4). spacers and shackles i guess is all i need? but is that too much for 3.55s? i wouldnt be beating it up in the woods, just wanna be able to get through the snow. though i might be tempted to hit some trails :brows: ...i won't be surprised if none of this happens. my gf gets around fine with her mini cooper and i got to drive it the whole week i visited. had no problems at all...even with hardly any ground clearance. but i would like to have an idea of what lies in the jeeps future

okay thanks thats what i thought, but upon research, the only 4 speed i could find was the AX-4. i thought there would be two different names if it was 4x2 and 4x4 sooo..... hypothetically, if i had a 4x4 tranny, Tcase, and front axle, what else would i need? i already wasted space with my thread....why bother with a search