Crash

Ram is a full size truck, so it will be a decent amount wider. When I was into Dakota's, lots of them would swap the C9.25 as an upgrade. If you want 4.10s and a traction device I would swap it in. Depending on what front axle you are planning on running, Consider leaving the Ram C9.25 with the current bolt pattern and get a set of wheels in that lug pattern and run wheel adapters in front to match.

Float or something in the tank probably stuck

If not from the HVAC or heater core. Probably the cowl or lower window area.

Pull the panels off, remove the bolts from the "window isolators". Hopefully manual or rolled at least part way down. After that ther eare a few bolts for the vent window/front window track. Should be about 3 bolts holding in the window regulator, whether power or manual. If all else fails, use a rock or brick for the glass and clean up with a shop vac.

I have a pair of first-gen RE sway bar disco links, sitting in a box of parts. Missing one of the wire lock pins. Used them for ~2"-4" lift. If interested, PM me and hopefully we can make a deal.

Turns out the cat was bad. Bunch of stuff came out the back when I was cutting it off, and it rattles inside. For the time being, before I can replace it after payday, I have a test pipe and magnaflow glass pack on it. A bit quieter, and sounds better than it was. Also, placed an order for am FK 3/4" RH thread heim, jam nut, and correct width high-mis spacers to run my new to me trackbar with my Synergy track bar bracket and brace. Need to pic up some hardware for the TB brace.

You may need a pair of the upper relocator brackets that move the sway bar forward slightly. Not sure who makes them. Also, there are a handful of variants for the XJ. ranging from 22mm to 26-28mm (I think). But, my understanding is that the ZJ sway bar should work as wel.

Not sure exactly what the cause is, as mine does the same. However, when I hold the nozzle up slightly it does not spew fuel out of the filler.

Sounds more like a linkage and/or iac problem. But, I supposed if the TPS is FUBAR'd enough, then maybe.

Those are what I'm thinking about going with, when I get to that point. But, frame stiffeners are higher on the list, along with 4WD swap. Aside from the frame stiffeners, if I can get my friend, who knows how to weld better than me, to help me fab up some custom rock rails. I do like how Nate's has their pinch seam setup.

Early, 84-86 XJ had a different t-case than the 87-up. I believe those were some kind of different CV shaft setup. IS the nut seized, or does the shaft turn when you attempt to remove it?

If you mean the mounts that use the cam bolts. Get a set of cam bolt eliminators. cam bolts suck. There are a handful of aftermarket companies that make passenger side side upper mounts. Currie, Tnt, Synergy, Clayton, Artec, etc. If you get a "stock style" upper, make sure that it is made of at least 3/16" steel and hopefully has an additional gusset.

Not sure if Chryco uses a "new" scan-tool meow, but you can probably find someone with a DRB-III (If this is what is still in use) locally that can help you out. Or, you can always attempt to turn them on after plugging them in. Possibly modify the wiring to work with existing switch or add another.

IIRC< dakota digital makes an apparatus to solve your issue. Not cheap, but it should work. Or maybe find a way to wire in your current sensor to your speedo circuit.

It can be done. As stated already, GM had a few versions of the 2.8, 3.1, 3.4 etc from Carb, to TBI, to MPFI. However, it would seem to me that an injected SBC of any generation would be about the same work and have more gain.

My exhaust guy does not have any more Spintech mufflers, and did not have any magnaflow mufflers in stock that I wanted. So, the search had continued until now. Ended up ordering a maggy glasspack muffler. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YIWIWM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01 Hopefully, I will get around to installing it in the next couple days, after I receive it tomorrow. It was inexpensive enough that if I decide to run something else, it's all right. Also, ordered a new Moog trackbar bushing for the No-name adjustable track bar that I got for a good price. I just need to get the correct heim-mis spacers to work with my Synergy TB bracket. Also, going to pick up some some GR8 hardware for the TB bracket brace.

Boostwerks.com t-case shift linkage. One and done..

I may still have some of my fender nuts. IF I can find them I can send them to you if you want.

WIth the later model IC, 4 cyl vs 6cyl doesn't matter. It was the early 84-86 IC, that could be swapped into renix-era heeps that was cylinder dependent. So, tach should work.

For the rear, a D44, C8.25, F8.8 would work for your needs. For the front, Truss/sleeves, chromo's, full case locker for the 30 4.56 gears front and rear.

If I did not have a 97-up console in my MJ, I was considering using one of my ammo cans as storage/arm rest. And some kind of cupholders. But, the 97-up console looks better and has cupholders! I also have the later model center console in my Renix XJ. A friend and I have contemplated figuring out a clean simple way to make the console lockable.

Oops....... the "no jeeps" part? Do we REALLY consider an SRT8 Grand a "Jeep"? LOL! I don't, it's basically a larger version of a charger really. In the scheme of Fiat/Chrysler shenanigans.

Hope everyone is okay. Lots of useable XJ parts, to sell or use.. You should buy it. If you get it cheap enough, selling those rear side windows might make you back your cash. If the seats aren't FUBAR'd those would work well in an MJ/XJ. Driver door is good as well.

Typically older diesel engines are more forgiving than the newer ones. B20 would be fine IMO. IF anything, top off your tank with some and see how that works for you. IF it works fine, then fill up and run it again.

At carquest they have some "Auveco" (sp?) rivets, trim clips, speed nuts etc. You can either match them to the Bolts, or buy new hardware with matching speed nuts. Or just go with a full set of new nuts/bolts/washers.