Crash

If you actually read anything he wrote. Rear zj coils in the front. And a block in the rear at least.

IIRC, he is running the Yoko Geolandar AT-s in 235/70R16

I like the prothane coil inserts. I would probably go with the 8-ring ones. They are a progressive bump so they compress a bit. Definitely better to start a little tall with those, and you can cut off a ring if necessary. For the rear, prothane and other companies make extended bump stops. I would probably use one of those, maybe along with a 2x4 (or whatever) square tube "adapter" in between the frame mount and the bumpstop. Or, if you are SOA, either use spring plates with a built-in bump stop mount or add to your existing plates to "extended" them.

Got the ZJ park brake cable installed with my 8.8 axle. The park brake actually works a bit, but I still need to adjust it to work better.

I recommend pulling the plugs, and pouring some MMO, seafoam, other into the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand.

About a month or so after I bought my Renix XJ in 2008, I went to Sac raceway for "Mopar Magic" and met up with a few of the dakota guys that I used to hang with. At the time, my XJ was basically stock; 4.0L/AW4/Np231/D35,D30, and newish 235/75R15 Bridgestone Dueler A/T 693's. My time progressively got better as I ran. Best time was 1/4 mile time was 17.4s @ 76MPH in 4WD! Not as good as your run. But I would say pretty damn good for a box on wheels. Wish I could have run my MJ with the 4.56's and the 235/75's, but hopefully someday to set a benchmark to progress. One thing that makes me laugh in my head is when I went to purchase for the race, was when the guy says "This is a Jeep, not a mopar." To this I remarked "Technically 'No', however AMC was bought out by Chrysler therefore it actually IS associated." The guy thought about it and then said "Okay" -------------- Back on topic, I have the felpro rubber gasket on my renix MJ and it doesn't leak a drop. I have the cork POS on my XJ and I think it's leaking again.. For some reason the last time I checked the VC bolts were a little loose as well. This was the case as well when I first bought my XJ. Had an oil leak, checked/tighten the VC bolts and the leak stopped. Now, my rear main leaks.. FML. I just make sure it's filled correctly with oil and am waiting to do an lS-based motor swap at some point.

IIRC, in AZ you have 30 days to insure the vehicle. Insurance in AZ may be a little more, but I'm almost sure reg will be less than CA. From the pics, the bed looks solid, check the frame for rust. Look for the hexagon diff in the rear. If round, then its a turdy5. AS far as interior, if the dash mat has been there a while the dash top is probably okay. If all the smog stuff is there, and looks OEM, and it runs good. A tune-up should make it run like a champ and pass the sniffer easy. Since it is a 1989, depending on build date/chryco it could have either a BA10/5 or an AX-15. If you do not already know, a BA10/5 has a case that bolts together side to side. So, if there is a seam with bolts running down the body of the trans front to back its a BA10/5. Either will internal slave of this vintage. Basically, if this truck has an AX-15, D44, and a decent bed, maybe rear bumper you could make your money back, and maybe some if you decided you didn't want it in the end.

Other than wiring and associated electronics, the main difference will be the rear drive shaft length. When you get to that point, have your MJ drive shaft shortened.

ANCHOR 2625

Nice find! For all the work that would need to be done to swap in the 4.3L V6, a GM Gen3/4 LS-based engine swap. If you think you can make some cash on it, buy it and part it or something.

Bummer, hope it works out for you. Glad I live in So Cal.. neither my parts MJ or my DD have rusty frames.

Highly doubt that, but not a bad start if someone is going from stock or 2WD.

I would imagine that the cost is semi-relative to how complete the axle you purchase is, swap kit (or associated swap parts), re-gearing/locker, new yoke/flange/adapter whatever, replacing/buying new parts that are necessary, and labor cost. Rundown of the cost of my Exploder 8.8 swap. FREE : 8.8 axle, 3.73, LSD..complete with all brakes, practically new-ish, even the park brake cables. Even U-bolts and spring plates. 20$ : Lubelocker diff cover gasket .. HIGHLY recommend, no more RTV, no more wasted time cleaning. ~25$ : 2 QT Amsoil Severe-gear 75W-140 Full Syn Gear oil, and a bottle of the "POSI" goop FREE : Spring perches, given to me by a friend 2$ : Brake fluid 150$ : Labor at my buddy's shop, included cutting, prepping, welding, and companion flange adapter 9-18$ : Driver side ZJ park brake cable (This may double pending how well I can get the park brake adjusted with the pass/long side exploder cable I guess I should add the cost of my wheel adapters, even though I purchased them to run my JK wheels before I even did the 8.8 swap. It was 70$ for a set of (4) Used, good condition wheel adapters and some new lug nuts. Approx Total cost 206-215$ (285$ with the wheel adapters) Even if I ended buying an 8.8 Exploder axle it would have been 150$ same gearing, etc. So, that would put it at about 365$ Interestingly enough, most of the stuff I purchased was not from the parts store I work at. I guess I will also add, if you are thinking/wanting to run JK, or other style wheel with a different bolt pattern, do it at the same time and get the correct adapter/spacer etc. just so you do not spend that money twice. How much $ do you have tied into your swap? I've been reading online of guys going over 1k $1K for an axle swap!?!? The 8.8 swap cost me about $500, but I will admit the e-brake is not hooked up. The axle was the most expensive part, from a salvage yard in Topeka, KS @ $300. I probably could have found an axle for much cheaper on craigslist, but this one had a warranty and was exactly what I wanted. I had to buy new brake lines (the Ford line screws into the MJ hard line), calipers, pads and rotors (Amazon prime was a money saver here) as well as the swap kit (I used the Ruffstuff kit with ubolts, perch, and plate). I also had to use an extra set of shock brackets I had at the house as the brackets with the Ruffstuff kit were way too short to use spring under. I found a set of used spidertrax spacers for sale on another forum which saved some serious $$$. You will need the Spicer 8.8 companion flange to allow the Jeep drive shaft to bolt up to the axle, they cost around $35-45 and a couple quarts of 75w-140 gear oil. If you can buy a complete axle with rotors, calipers and hoses included, I imagine the swap could be done for about 1/2 of what it cost me. When selecting your axle perch, make sure it is one that can allow the axle to sit 1" back. This will allow you to keep the stock driveshaft within operating clearances (might not be needed if you go SOA, but I cannot speak from experience here).

I ordered a single driver side ZJ park brake cable from work, should be in tomorrow. After I install it and attempt to adjust the park brake, I will see how it works with the super long Exploder passenger side cable. If it works decent I will just leave it, other wise I will buy another cable. The driver and pass side ZJ cables are the same length. The only difference I have maybe noticed from the pics is that the mounting bracket on the cables is opposite. I will buy another driver side as they are a few $ cheaper than the pass side for whatever reason.

Made my own BA10/5 "drain/fill plug" 5/16" removal tool. From some Chinexican 3" extension I had in my tool box. https://goo.gl/photos/u5Srsb3nLcCEWxRs5

IF there is actually enough clearance, then as long as you can actually set up the cables correctly, then it could work. Also, the later model XJ brake lever is setup for offset mount. You might be able to make that work depending on how your stuff is setup in the center.

For 44, my understanding is that exploder 8.8 rear discs work best. All will require some kind of mod, since the D44 is a non-c-clip axle.

In my experience of tire searching, their shipping costs make their "deals" not so good. But, YMMV. Best bet is to probably order a set of tires from DT/DTD and have them M+B by a good local shop.

I want to say a YJ foot brake is swappable. I may have a spare in my parts MJ.

I think I have a couple of tan ones, maybe a grey one. Maybe consider the dirtbound offroad ash tray switch panel.

3/4 gauge, full cluster? 87-90 is plug n pray. Pre-87 requires a different speedo cable, IIRC.

87 through 90 should work. IIRC, the late 89 and 90 give the renix a bit more "oomph". I may have a manual ECU in one of my parts heeps. I'll check soon and let you know.

My, what looks like factory, PS pump has been leaking/making lots of noise. Swapped out the pump with one from one of my donor XJ's. It is quiet, and not leaking yet so all good there for meow.

It really is best to have it setup in the vehicle. But, YMMV. Center pin to center pin is the correct way to measure the perch width. As not all things being crated equal, especially aftermarket vs factory, this will help. SImple match can also help figure out your pinion angle. If your Turdy 5 pinion angle is fine, measure that and use that angle to setup your perches as well.

How much did the leafs set you back? And, I would guess that bushings are easily swappable to keep them "factory"