Crash

Should be plug n pray, ax4/5 are 21-spline, same as renix AW4. The only potential issue would be the input shaft length of the T-case. If it's too long, could be as simple as cutting down the input on the T-case though.

7100s are available resi or non-resi. And in much more valving options. They are also user-rebuildable. Note that you will need a high pressue N20 setup or, go to a shop that has the ability. Shouldn't be fore than 10-15$ per shock to fill.

That's neat. Perfect for switches! In older vehicles that I have had that had "lighter delete" there was just a cap over the opening.

Nice! Now you have a Tow rig for your heep. Haha.

Because of flow.. You will need to "Tee" or tie the lines together. I take it you are swapping to an open cooling system? Having a "tee" would make a good fill/bleeding port for cooling system fluid exchange.

Congrats! For the rest of the parts depends really on what your budget allows and what you are willing to spend. Before lifting the front, I would setup your SOA first and then figure out exactly what height you need/want to be in the front. You will be sitting at least 4.5" inches to level out. Clayton trackbar and mount/brace would be a good fit. Even their other suspension parts if you chose to go that route. Depending in your specific steering setup at the time will decide if you need to change your pitman arm or not. Bilstein 7100 shocks, if you can afford it. Otherwise, I say PAC coils + ACOS, stainless braided extended brake lines, Currie Anti-rock Sway bar. Stock leafs will probably be fine for SOA, otherwise go with some Hell creek leafs.

Placed an order for a DBO, Stubby recovery bumper w/ Receiver add-on. He has sales going for BF, and I had a gift cert I got at a Naxja event last year. So, figured it was a good time to use it. Hopefully that will arrive and be installed by around Xmas time.

If your local Chryco dealer parts people are wprth a damn, they should be able to tell you.

Not sure if that TDIclub swap is related, but I remember 1 or 2 people over at the Naxja forums that did TDI swaps. Their threads were not really in depth. But pending deals on the required parts, sounds like a good swap. Back in high school when I had my "piss-yellow" 1980 MB 300SD sedan, non-turbo, I regularly got 25+mpg in my "normal driving" and 35+ highway. Can be converted to run bio diesel or WVO easily.

The actual CPS (not Crank sensor. correct designation for crank sensor is CKP but most do not use that) is in the dizzy. I believe that I have seen some people swap it. But, it typically goes with the dizzy. Easy to swap the dizzy. From my understanding, and having my heep run without the CPS connected, I do not think it really makes much difference. I would definitely consider indexing your dizzy, making sure that the wires are correct, coil good and producing a proper spark. Seems like the spark is not proper if using starter fluid is not doing anything.

Purchased an ext slave AX15 setup. Has clutch, new MC/slave cyl, flywheel pedals, etc. Will be picking up next weekend. Hopefully will have the 4WD swap done sometime next month. Also, installed the lights in the front. They are nice, white and bright. Need more wire to run lights to the back.

Test/swap out IAC. Also, in my experience, whenever my mileage takes a dump, the O2 sensor is usually the cause. Also, test/replace as necessary, MAP sensor.

What's the specific Color of that truck?

My 87 had the weatherpack connector..

Picked up (2) pair of LED cubes from amazon. Aside from dropping in price since I first heard about them, the seller (Prime ship and fullfilled by Amazon) had a 3$ discount for buying 2 or more sets together. https://goo.gl/photos/P59ssg7YD7KN1igW8 That is just one set, but they feel good. I picked up a set of spots and a set of floods. My back-up lights do not function, probably a NSS issue or whatever, but figured some extra light out back is not a bad thing. One light would work fine in the rear. But I think I will run (1) of each type front and rear. Depending on how well these work, I may purchase another pair/set or something like it, to run as "work lights" of sorts in the bed area. I have some LED strip lights that I want to setup under the rails of the bed for potential bed lighting. For "low-light" visibility for load/unload and camping.

Not sure where you got your Exploder 8.8 axle spec from, but not ALL of them are LSD. 3.73/LSD is very common for V8 Exploders. All of the 95+ have discs. Conversion Yoke is not necessary, if you use a flange adapter, ~20$ on amazon. With less than 10.5 wide tires, even on stock wheels they would be fine. Less BS wheels would be better. But decent hub-centric wheel adapters/spacers can be had for about 50$. As far as swapping into an MJ. As long as staying SUA, can use the Exploder factory leaf plates.

IIRC, idle spec at temp is 750 in drive. So, 900 is just fine. Checked and adjusted TPS? Maybe RPM was incorrect before? And are you sure that the TC is kicking in at speed? Guessing you have 3.55 since you have an AW4, what tire size? Maybe look up a gear ratio/tire calc, plug in your numbers and see what RPM you are supposed to be running.

G/R is usually stamped on the ring gear, yes. Otherwise the dirty method of counting splines works.

Got my Chinexican HL harness installed today. I must say, that it looks good for the price of about 15$ via ebay. Not a great pic, but a pic of it on my floor. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OAFy0QQzml1hEHNmQNwXrGQlaQMU95osnQ/view?usp=sharing I like that it uses standard style relays. We will see how long these cheap ones work before they fail. But I have a small drawer-full of relays.

What is your current budget?

The omix drag link is probably alright. But, I would definitely go at least ZJ V8 tie rod setup. VS, stock replacement POS tie rod. I got my RK adjustable UCA's for 153 from a vendor on JeepForum. Not sure what their lowers run. But, I would definitely consider running CAD brackets at the height you want to be. WJ LCA's or aftermarket adjustables recommended. My MJ is not even that tall, and I want drop brackets. I would go long arms, but don't feel like chopping up my MJ quite yet. The tallest my XJ ever was I had some RC 4.5 coils with short arms, and it rode like crap. Mid-arms are one of the best upgrades that happened to my XJ. I am most likely going to order and run the RRO MJ CAD brackets. IF you consider this, maybe get a set of their lowers, and either Uppers or the RK uppers. I briefly considered buying those Core4x4 arms, but their "pricing tiers" and crap and lack of reviews kept me away.

I have an 88 Renix XJ in my back yard 4.0L/Auto, that I think still has ECU.. Let me know if you want to make a deal.

Thank you.

Did you make sure that the axle side bolts for the sway bar link are installed correctly?

I asked, because that is not VERIFIED. Assumptions are the mother of all f-up's. I guess the world may never know, like Tootsie-pop's.