Crash

Not sure if it was here or naxja, but there I remember seeing some crazy, VERY LIMITED edition, MJ with an "extra seat"

Well, you will need to run R134a as R12 is pretty much non existent. Pretty sure most of the components from the later model XJ will work. To run the later model compressor, you will need to run a later model AC/fan bracket. Some of your local parts stores should have the ability to modify/make lines for you if necessary.

I would personally run an x-pipe and mandrel bent pipes.

Gawd...... that reminded me of one of the most amazing built Grand Nationals I've ever seen. 1077hp twin turbo. Yeah, no longer the V6, but this is one NASTY G.N. Video of a dyno run and track pass..........just NUTS! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R44H-4Glejc Not sure of any updates, but a several years back I saw a GNX clone with a tuned 6.6D-max under the hood. 18to1.com I believe was the site. I always liked the GMC Syclone's as well.

I agree with everyone else, whom have stated that you will get back into it. While my MJ was down I was sad about it. But, I knew that patience would help my budget. It helps that I also have my XJ to drive, although it doesn't get as good of mileage as the MJ does and it's Auto :/ . I'm not on forums as much as I used to be typically, because of a variety of reasons, but being able to help other people, see builds, and maybe get some answers is worth checking in.

That things looks "turrable". I kinda liked the earlier concept/export J8, but meh. I do not feel bad about what money has gone into my MJ, but how much money CANNOT go into my MJ.

Not helpful. Fact: The Ford 8.8 axle is narrower than XJ/MJ axles. With a factory axle, 31x10.50s on factory 15x7 rims just barely clear the inner fenders, and the inner sidewalls rub the body whenever the rear axle gets a little twisted relative to the chassis. Changing to an 8.8 requires either using wheel spacers or aftermarket rims with significantly less backspacing. Fact: A Chrysler 8-1/4 axle uses the same u-joint setup at the pinion yoke as the factory MJ D35 -- no adaptation needed. You cannot just bolt the factory drive shaft to a Ford 8.8 axle. What part of that is not correct? Well, the problem is.. You are ASSUMING. OP does not specify their intentions, other specs or what they plan on running. So, your "facts" or "statements" are potentially flawed. Either one may require driveshaft modification as both axles have a longer pinion. For the F8.8, running stock wheels with less than 10.5" wide tires will work fine. You also get rear disc brakes! Flange companion adapter is 20$ on amazon. A pair of Hubcentric wheel spacers/adapters for around 50$. If you stay SUA, and can get the Exploder leaf plates you can run the shocks just as factory has. For the C8.25, you still have drums, unless you pay EXTRA for disc conversion. If you stay SUA, even if you have the XJ leaf plates, you will have to install shock mounts.

I believe that HO MAT sensors will bolt-in, just plug is different. Could splice a new connector into your harness.

In theory, your local parts store should have packages, sometimes individual pieces that are for that type of thing. Sometimes can look up in the system. Sometimes, you will have to look through their selection to find what you need.

Word of advice, from someone who had a Turdy5 explode.. UPGRADE!

Nothing wrong with a properly functioning closed system. However, it's inexpensive enough to make the swap to an open system if you are spending money to replace parts anyways. Basically the same as replacing a failing/failed heater valve, all the new ones are plastic. Just bypass it and call it done. The later models did away with this valve all together. Note for those that switch to Open.. use a 16lb cap. Also, say you already installed a new "closed system rad" .. aside from the other things that are necessary to change to convert is an inline hose rad apparatus/cap.

Just bump stopping will limit your up travel. I would trim to the bottom of where the lip is angled and then get correct bumps to go from there. I recommend prothane progressive coil insert bumpstops. Get some that are potentially taller than you need, and you can cut off a ring or so pending how you need to be setup.

I have been meaning to swap to an early HO VC and airbox for the lack of extra vac lines, since I do not have EGR and such anymore. Glad you got your parts. When I purchased my replacement ones they were dorman front and rear vac harness.

Nice job. Although an aftermarket/DIY upgraded headlight harness with this mod would make more sense. As these vehicles aren't best known for their wiring and possible headlight issues as it is.

-cheap fun (less than 2 grand but no mods allowed other than fixes and a thumping radio) First gen Nissan 300ZX Turbo -prettiest (but you don't get to drive it, just park it in your living room) Being a James Bond fan, Ashton Martin DB4. Equipped with all the bond gadgets. -money no object (but it's your only around town transport) 1967 Chevy Yenko Camaro

Well, a common swap that I have noticed recently is TJ tank and pump assy. If you have a renix, I believe all you would REALLY need to do is swap out the gauge in the cluster, for an HO one.

One of the Jeep Off-road mags a few years ago featured JohnnyC 's MJ for a 97-up swap. There is some tech in there. They bolt up to the hinges. Depending on how "clean" you want the install, the hardest part is probably figuring out where exactly to mount the door striker and welding up the old hole and making it look "factory"

Not sure if it is noted on their site or NAXJA vendor thread. But I will say it here. If you plan on installing the SFR (Stinky Fab Racing) Engine mounts only, with stock engine brackets. Prepare to modify the driver side bracket. I was fighting with it for a while last night, and realized, because the bushings are large that the inner lip just beyond the mounting holes get in the way. I just ground them down with bench grinder because that is what I had available. Did not take long and was easy enough after that.

Some kind of extra bracing, mounts across the frame would do the trick. I want to do this eventually.

You are probably okay. But, sidewall to fender measurement on both sides should give you the amount you are off "track" If your "stock" trackbar is new/new-ish. You can drill a hole in your axle side track bar mount about 3/4" over to "Center" the axle. If the trackbar needs/should be replaced. Pick up the adjustable IRO double shear trackbar/mount, about 200$ shipped. And you should be good there. For extra clearance/travel, you can trim the top of the axle side LCA bracket. On the flip side, I would flex/stuff the tires on each side and see how much shock shaft is left. Should be ~.25", more is okay. But bottoming out shocks is bad. SImple bumpstop solution, hockey puck(s) pending how much gap you need to fill. RTV'd to your coil buckets.

If you have the matching brackets, the 97-up bumper is plug n pray. YOu would need to modify, run your own wiring for the factory fogs that are associated. But it will work if that is what you want.

There was a member on Naxja that bought this MJ, maybe search over there and ask the current owner questions?

If you swap booster and master together, not an issue.

So, not sure if I ever posted the fact that my driver side engine mount is busted (big surprise, right?). The passenger side is not far behind. Especially when there are reasonably priced upgrades, I do not like just buying "OE replacement" junk. Let's face it, the design of the factory engine and trans mount are not great. Stinky Fab Racing, whom of which is a vendor over at Naxja had a sale on their products. I have been meaning to upgrade anyways, and this pushed me to do it even more. Ordered on Friday the 11th, they were at my house today when I arrived home from work. They look amazing, and they arrive bare metal. SO I cleaned them up a bit, hit them with some primer, and have started the first coat of paint. These are the first items on my MJ that are orange. Other components will follow. https://goo.gl/photos/H1A9Vk9RThkE1BgD8 https://goo.gl/photos/BmYY6MB867HfM2Uq6 First 2 are new out of the shipping box. https://goo.gl/photos/Lt7UoCK1GZCGfVWH6 Primer https://goo.gl/photos/MJijwmAMCgsspdmn7 First coat of paint. I will do at least another coat, let them dry overnight, and then install them when I get home from work tomorrow evening.

Most of that depends on the material and quality of said material the block is made from. In theory, if you do not mind losing load cap, you could pull a leaf from the packs.