Crash

Even stock XJ/MJ heeps are fun in the sand. Keep momentum. LSD or locker in the rear goes a long way. But air down and you will get better traction. And have fun!

I'd like to know more about that alt. relocation and tensioner setup.. Looks good.

831_xj over at naxja just made up a set of U-bolt eliminator plates for his F8.8 that he swapped into his now SOA MJ. This, helps counter the added height. Looks like they sit just on top of the tube. Has gussets from then edges of the plate to the axle tube.

When you did the trans swap, did you swap crossmembers as well? Otherwise, the AW4 crossmember sits about 3/4" higher than the manual trans crossmember. Thow wouldn't completely account for why your shifter sits so high, as it is definitely not an XJ shifter.

Yes, they offer them in many different valving options, and can be revalved easily.

Bilstein 7100s

Maybe contact him to see if he can do a hybrid or custom bumper.

Consider ign, CKP, Fuel pump ballast resistor. Does engaging the clutch affect anything? Maybe bleed and check your MC/slave.

Dirtboundoffroad.com CS@Dirtboundoffroad.com

The 97-up mirrors were plug n pray on my Renix XJ. Granted, I did not wire up the power. If you have/want a driver replacement small door-mounted mirror, I think I have one on my old MJ doors.

He advertised BF deals and such over at NAXJA. So, I'm certain he is up and running. I bought one of his stubby recovery bumpers. I have not seen "wings" for them, but it would appear that the current gen of his bumpers are based on the stubby or vice versa. Would be nice to have a "wing option" , but I will more than likely have some tube bent up and welded to the stubby at some point. One thing I do appreciate about Max's bumper setups is that they come with the frame tie in's. And are actually built to run with front front stiffeners. He even has his own version of front stiffie/bumper tie in's. If I could afford his full length bumper, I would have bought it instead of the stubby. But, sometimes that is how it goes.

I received the items mentioned in above post already! Super stoked about that. So, hopefully, project time this weekend. I could probably do the headlight swap after work, but it's DARK when I get home currently. So, I will wait until I have daylight and time to sort things out if there is a glitch. I want to do LCA and CAD bracket swap first though. Overall I like how it steers and no bumpsteer, but better ride with proper-ish control arm angles is what I want.

How about the dirtbound offroad bumpers?

I posted up in my Build thread, but thought I would update. Found a seller on amazon that had a NEW RE 9900 kit + free ship, for LESS than the RC kit. THey have a 99% rating. I think there was another seller that had about one for about the same price. Unfortunately, not Prime eligible, but they should be here later this week.

Confirm your e-fan turns on with the A/C. IF it does, then most every vehicle bumps up the engine rpm while the A/C is running. Not all parts created equal, consider the possibility that your IAC could be bad/not adjusted properly.

I've mostly run the Goodyear blades from Costco for the past few years, they are the beam style. Then working at carquest I ran the base Trico blades. I work for ford now, at the list price for the "premium flat beam blades" is only 13$/ea. I have thought about trying them out, but I get a better deal with my CQ discount.

If you wer enot on the wrong coast, I would give you a deal on a rolling chassis MJ. In a way, you are better off without a 2.8L GM engine..

I didn't know it was 'shopped. Even so, it shows what an MJ would look like if stretched to accommodate 2-door XJ doors, and that was the question to which I was responding. Nice 'shop job -- one of these days I need to learn Photoshop. There are a couple pictures of that truck, if you look below the truck at the driver rear tire that it was not edited correctly. Not that specific pic mentioned, but others of that truck.

Ordered these H4 conversion housings, along with some Hella 100/80 bulbs. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WCOG5A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 I figured I would give them a shot for the price, I figure if they suck I can return them to amazon. Also, ordered a set of the RE 9900 CAD-brackets from a seller on Amazon for LESS than the RC kit! Hopefuly I will be riding in better comfort soon.

Thank you kindly, sir! That should work just fine. Although I had have an additional driveshaft to cut down if it fails! Maybe, in the future after I get all this put together, have it made as a spare. This is my EXACT setup as of recently. I will go measure for you and get back to you in a little while. *EDIT: I measured and it came to just shy of 50" from center of u-joint to center of u-joint. I can say that after swapping in/lifting my rear with the 8.8, my drive shaft's length did not need to be altered. It pulled out of the back of the T-case just over an 1/8th of an inch.

Thank you, everyone for your responses. I will not tempt fate, and buy RRO stuff. On that note.. since braces are a moot point for my MJ, what is the difference between RE and RC. Other than the price. Because I found a seller on amazon that has a set with free ship for less than the RC brackets.

So, the time has come to make a decision to run CAD brackets or not. Has anyone here had a GOOD and RECENT experience with RRO? AS they are the only company that makes the most complete CAD bracket for our MJ's. I want the better ride that they offer for the price. But, I do not want to end up being one of RRO's very unsatisfied customers that wants to go "GTA" on their butts because they failed. In a way, I kind of want to wait till after I swap in my WJ 30 and my set of adj. LCA's and see how that goes. On the other hand, I do not like doing things twice. Yes, I know that if I go long arms at some point after it would kind of be along the same lines. I know that, ultimately, it is my decision. But, if I get enough positive reinforcement that I will most likely order the RRO MJ CAD brackets. Thank you for your time. Side note: Anyone here running an MJ Longbed AX-15/NP242 (non-SYE) with an F8.8+ flange adapter. What length is your rear drive shaft?

Bumpstops.. aftermarket control arms, should be fine. Although I would trim to the lip of the fenders and relocate flares or use flexy flares if you choose. But, bumpstops are key to any lift, especially low COG.

Both my MJ and XJ have the factory lighters. Thanks for the tip, however I am a self proclaimed "Pik-n-Pull" expert! Very cool item, added to my wishlist for future consideration. Like the idea of installing that in the center console so my iPod is out of sight and the cord isn't cluttering up the dash/cab. I have a 97-up XJ center console in my MJ, and since MJ has Foot pedal Park-brake the console opening is essentially "useless". I have thought about removing the "brush-pieces" and making some kind of panel/mount. Or a "hidden" compartment of sorts. Maybe install the plug there. Or, I was thinking maybe install the plug under the ashtray cover. This way it would be hidden when not in use. #Becauseracejeep ?

You could still do that, but instead of using the "middle" Spread them out kind of like on the prime 4x4 panel. I got one of these to use with my HU. http://smile.amazon.com/BOSS-MUSB35-Universal-Auxiliary-Interface/dp/B00IBDSFAU/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1448829339&sr=8-1&keywords=boss+musb35&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011 But, I think I might install that somewhere in/around the center console for a cleaner install. And run a dual USB charger at the Cig lighter area.