Crash

The interior is definitely mediocre. Exterior looks clean. The possibilities of what my MJ would look like for that kind of money. Haha.

How much did the Moog ZJ tie rod setup cost you?

There's a member over at NAXJA that has installed the AA kit. Has some pics in their thread.

Not great pics, but here's some from when I had the small lift. I'll try and find more. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245139551&postcount=143 Keep in mind that I never had flares on the newer fenders. 235/75 , rear was a bastard pack so not sure exactly how hight the rear was https://www.dropbox.com/s/semzr8vbznkl42u/2011-01-24%2012.49.28.jpg?dl=0 31x10.5 https://www.dropbox.com/s/7olvipb61xknx74/2011-05-09%2017.52.49.jpg?dl=0

No lift yet, RK UCA's should be arriving Mon or Tues though. I work til close to dusk now, so lift attempt will wait til next weekend.

Why not just lift the front 2" and be done. I used an RE1600 TB with a modified stock frame-side TB mount to run the heim in double shear. Had some sagged "3 inch" springs so I think I was barely over 2 inches. And had some thread left. I was running 235s. The extra flex was nice and rode better. In theory, if you found/built an aftermarket frame-side mount that had a mount hole slightly outward, it should work with stock height. Also, when I initially installed my lift springs I ran the factory TB, and the axle was not shifted that much. I never noticed any issues.

If you do not want it that modern or "fancy" then do not do that. Just a suggestion, partially to see if it would push you that direction. At the very least I would convert to fuel injection to get more performance/mileage out of it, and at least somewhat restore it. I guess it really depends on what you would want to do/plan on using it for. What do you reckon all that upfitting would cost? $15k plus the cost of a truck, plus know-how (that I don't have)?

I currently work at a Ford dealer, and could probably pass on a reasonable price for the Ford OEM shackles. Otherwise, the Dorman ones look almost identical to the Ford ones. One of my local XJ guy's works at a CJDR dealer, I could see what kind of price can be had on MJ shackles if they are available to him.

Well ,if you do end up getting one. Making it something like this.. maybe less extreme on the lift tires? http://comancheclub.com/topic/41090-88-j20-turbo-diesel/ If I could find an SJ or older full size J Truck, for a reasonable price that had a good body/frame, I would do it. And it would either get a Gen3/4 LS-based engine or a Cummins.

If you have non-c clip housing, bearings are pressed on the axle shafts.

YOu can get aftermarket gauge overlays that go further. IIRC, some gov't/po-po XJ's had a 115-ish speedo.

If you have not already figured out your shackle situation, The JKS XJ 1" booms would only net about .25" on an MJ. I guess that could be considered a bit much on top of SOA and everything else. But, an option none the less.

Nice find, go find a set of KJ disc hardware to toss on that.

I would start by labeling the connectors for the injectors, so you know which cylinder injector they go to. Then unclip and remove said connectors. At this point there are a couple of different ways you can go with this. 1)Remove the bolts holding the fuel rail down and then pull up carefully, removing the injectors from the cylinders. Pull the vac line from the FPR. If you can get the rail up and out it will be easier to R&R the fuel injector clips. Make sure that if a o-ring comes off the injector that is it removed from the rail before re-assembly. Install the new injectors, attach clips. Reinstall the opposite way. 2)Remove the clips off the injectors that hold them to the rail. Remove the bolts for the fuel rail. Pull up on the rail, remove injectors, install new injectors and attach clips.

If you are buying NEW parts, an aftermarket tie rod and ends won't cost much more than the V8 ZJ setup. If you are sourcing the tie rod from your local JY and replacing the ends, then that will most likely be less expensive.

Well, any awd, or 4wd vehicle needs matching ratio axles front and rear.

Purchased a set of new. RK adjustable UCAs from a vendor over on jeep forum. Best deal I could find on new. And better than RC, Rustys, etc. Hopefully will have the front of my MJ lifted this weekend.

These are common, especially being older vehicles now, for having non functioning ac.

Picked up all the remaining pieces for my adjustable track bar setup. Have a few different sets of lift coils to decide what to run in my MJ. I will relocate my hard brake lines for more travel for sure. Then figure out if I need extra length. I have a set of custom square tube LCA's in my parts MJ. I will swap those in, hoping to pick up a set of adjustable uppers. I have a set of JKUR shocks. I'll run the fronts for meow. Truck is still only 2WD, so no worries about front drive line issues.

1; dynamat will help prevent the roof from rattling at all. 2; IIRC, there are a couple of different levels of the specific Dynamat brand. And, some other companies. Pending on how much you buy and where you buy price will vary. Should not be terribly expensive for an MJ cab. 3; I would consider spray in bedliner or other rubberized/rust preventative coating regardless of whether you toss vinyl or carpet in. I do not really think vinyl will do much to insulate. Maybe consider some Marine grade carpet. 4; As far as I know it's some kind of coating. Maybe remove it, prep it and paint with something that will last. Unless you want chrome. 5: 97-up door seals (The ones that wrap around the whole door frame opening. The problem with the rest of the Pre-97 seals and other window apparatus is that they are spendy when you find them. Maybe consider swapping 97-up doors.

Is there a real website?

Ram is a full size truck, so it will be a decent amount wider. When I was into Dakota's, lots of them would swap the C9.25 as an upgrade. If you want 4.10s and a traction device I would swap it in. Depending on what front axle you are planning on running, Consider leaving the Ram C9.25 with the current bolt pattern and get a set of wheels in that lug pattern and run wheel adapters in front to match.

Float or something in the tank probably stuck

If not from the HVAC or heater core. Probably the cowl or lower window area.

Pull the panels off, remove the bolts from the "window isolators". Hopefully manual or rolled at least part way down. After that ther eare a few bolts for the vent window/front window track. Should be about 3 bolts holding in the window regulator, whether power or manual. If all else fails, use a rock or brick for the glass and clean up with a shop vac.