Crash

Run some seafoam or Berrymans B12 through the intake after you fire it up. The destructions are on the bottle.

There are SO MANY aftermarket bumpers, find something you like in your budget and go that route.

The XJ with "no booster" would have to be EARLY 90s or late 80s with the aweful Bendix ABS system. I think the KJ and ZJ driver side are pretty much the same, KJ passenger side is decent long, seems almost too long for late model XJ's but works well. Maybe ask that person if the park brake shoes are included. I would think so if they are in decent shape, but a new set plus hardware from your local parts store is probably only about 20$ and should last a VERY long time. I'm glad that I got a really good deal on an exploder 8.8 to swap in my MJ. DOn't have to do all that extra work. Haha. I have KJ back plates for my 8.25 in my XJ that I will probably install soon after I get my truck back on the road.

96-down should be plug n pray, since they have the same style fenders. Not sure about fit of 97-up Who needs inner fender liners though? Just use piece of inner tube or pool noodles on the rear side to keep crap out of the door hinge area. Maybe use some rubberized undercoating or bedliner in the fendewell.

That price is cheaper that then guy from cherokeeforum. Passenger side KJ brake cables will work, they are long but work. 95/96 dual dia booster does not require mod or brake pedal change. Not sure about MJ, but the older XJ MC has separate reservoirs for front/rear so if you get into the rear brakes you do not have to bleed the front and vice versa.

I think the stock bolts are probably 1/4 in? If so, drill out the yoke for 5/16 in and go to your local parts store and pick up some ubolt straps.

I think that you will need a diagram to wire proper anyways, but in my XJ I have the constant/"ign" power wires together running to the constant (which IIRC is the pink wire) with an inline fuse. Your HU might have a fuse in it, if not definitely run an inline fuse. I always detach the face, which cuts power to the HU. SO that is fine.

Yes, most shops will charge less with axle dis-assembled to gear it. As all they have to do is toss it on a bench or stand and put it together. Consider keeping the D44 for a future project, if you can. Or sell it for a reasonable price to a member who wants/needs it. Make sure you have the E-torx bits for the upper bell housing bolts. And I recommend putting those in a pile of bolts and replacing those with grade 8 hex bolts.

For the money, especially if you are on a budget you cannot go wrong with the IRO TB/bracket.

OP, if you really want to run 33's, regear or find axles with a better ratio. With a manual 4.10s would put you close to stock. 3.73's would be alright. But 4.56's would be best. I wasn't aware 4 cyls had anything lower then 4.10? TJ's and wranglers are a different animal. The most common ratio for those is 3.73's

A hand pump in a fluid bottle works well too. I made the custom tool for removing the drain/fill plugs for BA10/5, by grinding down some cheap chinexican 3" extension. The fill and drain plugs were on the same side on my BA10/5, maybe 4WD version is different from 2WD? Unless you know EXACTLY how much to fill from the shifter, even if you do this it is still recommended to remove the fill plug. So you know when to stop.

Looks like the drive way is sloped.. I would definitely measure for height, seeing as the fenders/flares look intact. Does your MJ have V8 ZJ coils in it, maybe some kind of replacement HD springs? STOCK, center of wheel hub to bottom of flare is 17.5 in the front. Take measurement and subtract 17.5 from the number you get.

Pulled/picked up the 8.8 axle today. Got it over to my buddy's shop. If the tag is correct, which looks like it is; It has 3.73's and limited slip! Was hoping for 4.10s, but better than 3.55s. My understanding is that 3.73's are the most common of the exploder axles. Good news, was able to get pretty much all the accessories that I need, brake lines, park brake cables, etc. Bad news, driveline was MIA. SO, I either need to get a companion adapter, or a yoke. I took a couple pics of the spring brackets, they should work out just fine. Here are the couple pics I took of those. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xgqd97bLbp0PP2NbFW5ndJ1TxJTlanoWPQ/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zRpQAELYLawmEFxws1Fwr2oTNLXXSA9fwA/view?usp=sharing Unlike the MJ brackets that have a stud, the shock mount is double shear. Stronger, better? Who knows. But they should work out nice. I will be picking up some new U-bolts from work when it gets closer to setup. Hopefully, in the next couple days after work I can go cut off all the stock mounts and prep the axle for install. Plasma cutter FTW!

I understand that you have a while for your next batch of plates/pre-welded hitches. But, could you PM me a total cost of a complete welded hitch, shipped to 93444 or a business in 93420 if cheaper than the other. Thanks.

Bypass/jumper the ballast resistor, see if it runs. Also, if you go to start it and hold the key between the run/start position does it continue to run? I have had these issues, the first time, my ign switch failed, so I bypassed it with a switch and push button. The second time my ballast resistor failed. I permanently bypassed that. Everything is just fine meow.

Other than the starter relay, which is a silver box, I believe the other relays to be the same.

Lube locker gasket. IF you get good synthetic diff fluid (most will say no modifier required), friction modifier is not necessary. If you run non-synthetic oil, the modifier is definitely needed. I am currently open/open in my XJ, but I use Amsoil 75w-110 front and rear. It is a full syn that does not require additional modifiers. I will be using the same in my 8.8 that I swap into my MJ.

Step 1: Steal Underpants Step 2: ??? Step 3: Profit!

My gf and her mom paid for a new windshield to be installed in my heep for bday, by one of the local, mobile installers. was about 200$ including install.

Do you really want 3.73 gears, or is that just what you got? If the rear axle is fine and that gear and what you want. Find a non-disco 30 for cheap and have it geared. OR, if you want a different gear ratio. Find a 30 with the gears you want, and have the rear axle geared to match. Although, you post does seem kind of confusing. Is the D44 in it now, and has 3.73's. Or, is there a different rear axle in it that has matching 3.73's? If your D44 is not in the vehicle, what gears does it have? Pending on those gears, find a D30 to match. Bolt it in and go. OR, gear your D44 and find a D30 to match.

If you weren't on the wrong coast, I'd give you a bumper with brackets.

Head should be fine, but I would use your stock intake.

Not much of an update, but my truck has been sitting at my buddy's shop. He has been sure busy so it is just sitting there currently. I have also been super busy at work, and that doesn't help much either. Hopefully I will have an Exploder 8.8 within the next couple weeks. I will be helping pull it from the vehicle, so I will have everything I need to get from that, including the "companion adapter" for the drive line. A friend of mine gave me a pair of leaf perches that he decided not to use. Thankfully, my buddy has a plasma cutter at his shop. That will make life a little easier in cutting all the crap off of the axle housing.

Unless its CHEAP, do not waste your time.

Yes, 95+ for sure. Or even a NV3550, if you get lucky.