HOrnbrod

Where is the axle vent on an 8.8?

What are those front bumper guards Jeff? Factory? Have never seen any like that.

I wouldn't worry about it Chief - you already have a lot of contrasts already. A little more won't hurt. :cheers:

Same for both.

I have no idea what you are talking about.

When I first laid eyes on this jewel there was no doubt it would become the next MJOTM. The original owner, tastefully improved and modernized over the years, and dedication to the MJ marque are all qualities that exemplify what the MJOTM award is supposed to represent. Congratulations and thanks Jay for preserving this fine MJ example for so many years. :cheers:

Old position - 1986.

For the HOs the paint code is on the Body Code Plate located on the left side firewall. In the below example it is shown as "Primary Paint". It's normally a three character code; two letters and one digit. For instance my paint code is PS7. Renix is similar:

Why do you need to mess with the column shift cable? I did the 96 master/booster swap and just slipped everything under the cable. No problem. Are you using the 1/4" spacer plate between the firewall and booster?

WHERE are you located? Any pics in the ad? Comanche, not Commanche.

That water control valve is the reason the heater core is clogged. It shuts off water flow through the core and every summer the crud builds up eventually clogging it up. The water control valve was removed in 1997 allowing coolant to flow constantly through the core, keeping it clean. Get rid of the valve and plug up the vacuum hose.

No mods, easy bolt-in. The hardest part is changing the Pitman arm. Look for the alpha-code on the tag to ID the box. Mine had the KD code.

Easy fix, but costs a few Benjamins. Painless and others sell the 4-lamp H4 relay harness (or make your own), and www.rallylights.com still sell the small H4 rectangular housings. Outfit them with the H4 bulbs of your choice. Easy - peasy and great lighting.

You suspect correctly. The LED lamps are either on or off, there are no varying degrees of brightness as with incandescent lamps. The typical LED headlamp draws a max of about 3.5A, much less than a typical sealed beam on HI beam. So the factory harness, if in good shape, is more than adequate. For the LED lamps, a supplementary relay harness would be unnecessary.

does it matter what year its from? It doesn't matter what year or model as long as it is a ZJ. Yes it does. Some of the early 92 models did not have the 12.7 quick ratio steering. To be sure, get one from any 93-98 model. Engine does not matter.

The Trucklite LED head lamps, both the round and 5x7 rectangular, are DOT compliant. The E-code H4s are not. There are plenty of articles around with photos showing comparison LO/HI beam patterns between the E H4s and LEDs around. There's good one on NAXJA; I'll post the link if I can find it later. Here are my unscientific observations: LO Beam: The cutoff of the E-code housings is sharper than the LEDs, but not by much. Both have a far superior cutoff line as compared to sealed beams. I've never been flashed with either vehicle, but I did align the lamps per instructions. The LEDs and E-code halogens have a different alignment procedure. The light color for the halogens is much yellower than the LEDs. The LEDs are more like daylight, very restful on my tired old eyes. The yellower H4s get to me on long night drives. The LO beam distance penetration is pretty much equal between the two. But the LEDs seem to get out farther due to the light color. HI Beam: This is where the LEDs beat the crap out of the H4s. It's nearly daylight as far as you can see. Really lights up the road about twice as far as the H4s, and is great for twisty country roads. One semi-annoying feature at first with the LEDs is the "X" pattern in the road where the four beams of the two headlamp housings beams converge. It's weird at first, but after awhile you don't even notice it. The NAXJA article shows this pretty well. Overall, I much prefer them over the E-codes. The very low amp draw is good too. The biggest drawback of course is the cost. If and when they drop down in price a bit, they will be replacing the halogen E-codes in the MJ. Yes, they don't get hot enough to melt the snow/ice. Not usually a problem in 'Bama. But I've read TruckLite has a spray-on coating that prevents ice and snow from sticking on the lens similar to what is used on satellite dishes.

^^ I have to agree with this. I installed a set of TruckLite LEDs on my JK, and they are great. The low beams are equal or just slightly better than my MJ with Hella e-codes and 55w H4 bulbs, but the LED high beams as compared to the halogens is like day to night. And the LEDs draw less than 25% of the amperage that the stock sealed beams, so no relay harness is necessary. If I did not have the halogens and harness already on the MJ, I'd definitely be getting a set of TruckLite LEDs for the MJ.

There's a very small segment of TV viewers who are even remotely interested watching offroading on TV. No sane producer or reality TV (which this is) network would spend big bucks on a show like this, at least at first. I think that's why the locale is Alaska. This could appeal to stray viewers with nothing more interesting to watch to tune in and look at the scenery. And of course the over-acted drama scenes prevalent in most all of the reality TV shows will suck more viewers in. All these new shows are hoping to become the next Pawn Stars or Duck Dynasty rating success story; it ain't gonna happen with this low-budget high-amateur travesty.

Excellent truck that looks like it's optioned out very well. Amazing condition for a truck from up north. Must have been parked every winter. And I also agree keeping this beauty original. Also congratulations figuring out how to post pictures here in your first post. :thumbsup: We have people who have been here for many years and still have no clue how to do it. :yes:

This one is better. A bit more expensive though. http://www.amazon.com/Road-Intake-Snorkel-Jeep-Cherokee/dp/B00NCCWPQ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1417408039&sr=1-1

Edit your signature stating what year, engine, and transmission is relevant to the MJ you are referring to. It makes things easier.

You sure can. Good thinking too, because to change the mounts all the oil filter hardware has to be removed. Might as well do it all at once.