HOrnbrod

http://teamcherokee.com/door-ajar-switch-oem-cherokee-comanche-1984-1989/

Since you're on a budget:

Have you pulled the speedo gear out of the AW4 tail to check it out? These gears seldom go bad. And if it's for your 91, you have an electronic speedo. Most all problems with these are electrical, not mechanical.

Jeep p/n is 2925062. $4.76 from http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/

Not Cruiser, but the stock metering block (MJ) or proportioning valve (XJ) serves a second function: It's also the actuator for the brake failure warning light. If you eliminate it, you won't have any brake warning system. The way the proportioning function works in the XJ/ZJ version, the forward part of the valve is the part that feeds the rear brake circuit. That plug you see on the front (or nose) of the block has a rubber gasket inside, and there's a brass plunger that has a sliding shank that seals against this gasket. Then there's a heavy spring, and behind the spring there's a flange and a rubber cup seal. At rest, the cup seal blocks brake fluid from going to the rear brakes, so under light braking the fronts do ALL the work. Under severe braking, the hydraulic pressure finally gets high enough to seal the cup in the bore and force the piston forward against the spring. This opens the port to the rear brakes and allows them to do some work. And that's why I don't like the system. There's no danger of spinning out under light braking. Under heavy braking, a lot of weight transfers onto the front wheels, making it harder for them to skid, and OFF the rear wheels, making it easier for them to skid. So what the XJ proportioning valve actually does is not allow the rear brakes to work EXCEPT for the conditions when you really need to limit the braking force to the rear wheels. The other problem with it is that, since the piston only moves under heavy braking (did I mention that the spring is STRONG?), if you drive sanely and never get to panic stop pressures in the system, the cup seal may not move for years. The crud in the brake fluid builds up around it and locks it in place. At that point, you have NO rear brakes -- ever. My '88 XJ hasn't had rear brakes for three or four years. I tested it in snow -- rolling at about 10 or 15 MPH, I opened the door to watch the rear wheels (in a deserted parking lot) and slammed on the brakes. The fronts locked up and skidded. The rears just kept rolling. I think when I get Old faithful back on the road I'll just pull the spring out of the proportioning valve and leave it so I always have rear brakes. I can deal with that. Mod it: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Proportioning_Valve_Mod.htm

:hijack: , but that's okay, it's been beaten to death anyhow. I have the same era Explorer disks on a D44, but the caliper is completely different. Much larger. I'll have to pull a wheel and snap a pic.

^^ ZJ disks?

:thumbsup:

Yep, I missed that Bo. But it's a lie. At best they are 1/2 hub centric if they fit tight and snug around the axle shaft flange. I wouldn't use these things if they were giving them away.

They sure are. Notice anything different on the wheel side of the two spacers? Those things are only lug centric for the wheel. I'll stand by my original comment below also. But you do what you want to...............

Location?

you sir, are a smart man! I probably should get myself some bed liner and a paint job, and a D44 front, and rock sliders first! Haha I was just sort of asking for future reference. I thought you were leaving for Marine boot camp in early December?

The relays are for the power locks.

I had one of those Magnaflow mufflers on at first but with the headers and 2.5 duals from the muffler on back the droning drove me crazy. I could only stand it about a week, went back to the shop, ripped it off and installed a Walker Performance baffled muffler instead. It's still louder than stock but no more droning. I can live with that.

It was. I just missed it because it was painted so pretty. :cheers: .

I did this years ago, and now that I think back, I did use my stock 91 pump and bracketry originally after I changed out the steering gear. Later on when the pump started to leak I added the 97 and up bracketry and the new pump. The only difference in the pumps was a slight takeoff angle difference on the return hose nipple, so the 04 Wrangler pump option should work just fine on your setup too. The Saginaw TC pumps were used on many Jeep and GM vehicles and there are subtle differences, but they are all basically the same physical configuration.

Nope, you're flat wrong dude. I used a single switch panel for the passenger door, like the rear doors have. No power locks. The rear door switch and connector is configured differently than the six-terminal drivers door switches. And there is one unused dummy pin on all the 6-pin drivers side switches. Ever looked at one? Each window switch requires five terminals to be wired, as shown in the schematic.

I though of doing that too. I mocked up everything on the workbench before wiring it in, and the regulator motors only pulled 2A-3A each, so I didn't use relays, just fused the power in with a 20A fuse. The factory setup doesn't use relays either. Of course, the factory didn't use relays for the headlamps either. :nuts: Anyhow, I figured it's easy enough to add relays for the motors later if needed. So far I haven't had to.

I got the pump from a rolled 04 Wrangler pump in 05, so the pump was almost new. Used the existing hoses that were on it. It was a direct bolt-on for me because I have the 01 intake manifold and 97+ power steering bracketry. It probably won't be a direct bolt-on for your setup.

:agree:

I put in an 04 Wrangler pump when I did the ZJ box. It also has the holes in the pulley. Most of the newer Saginaw TC pumps did.

Yes, you are using the later model 4.0 steel cover. The earlier cast aluminum covers (96 and below IIRC) have the vent towers inside.

Your 2.5 baffle towers look exactly the same as the 4.0, but the spacing of the 4.0 rocker studs might be different - don't remember. Thanks for the pics - will have to look into this. Just because the instructions say the towers must be removed doesn't mean they MUST.

The description says nothing about them being hub-centric. I wouldn't touch them.

That depends on your definition of "superior." As far as trim level, the Eliminator was a higher-level model than the Chief. But in its first year (1989? 1990?) the Eliminator was only available as a 2WD. After that, it was also available in 4WD and was, without question, the top model. Below the Eliminator came the Chief and the Pioneer. Aside from exterior decals, they were pretty much the same. The Chief was just tricked out to look a bit more "off-roady," whicle the Pioneer was trimmed out more like a daily driver. Below those two were the Base and SporTruck -- and I believe in the years when there was a "SporTruck" by model, that actually was the base model. 1986 was a completely different series, with X being the base model, XLS being the top of the line, and something else in between. (XL, maybe?) You forgot the Laredo. That was at least on a par with the Elims.