HOrnbrod

That's the correct fuse. The following is straight from the 91 FSM: I have never had a horn problem so have not searched for the horn relay. And there is no picture of it in the FSM. Advise you to stick your noggin under there and look up for a bracket with relays on it. :dunno: More brilliant engineering by Jeep..................

The horn is fused in the drivers side footwell fuse box, fuse #11, 25A, marked HOLD/DLY on the 91 models.

Not difficult, but be prepared to break a few fender flare bracket studs.

152 hours of labor @ $60/hr? What if you worked faster? :P

Gotta balance the suck and blow.

^^ Agree with the learned bloke from down under. And when you start driving it, the $$ outlay doesn't stop; might even get worse. Counting/worrying about $$ spent takes all the enjoyment out of it.

That's classified information.

How much back pressure is enough - no idea. But yes, it adds some back pressure because of the louvers on the inner tube create turbulence. And glass packs are great for reducing droning at certain RPMs.

Works fine, nice sound. Stainless Cherry Bomb

I installed a pair like those about 3-4 years ago. They fit pretty well. IIRC, I had to punch a couple of new holes that no amount of wrestling could line them up. It's best to use new 1/4" punch pins (plastic rivets similar to what's there now) with a 1/4"ID x 1"OD fender washer on each pin since the holes were a little large. They still look like new and have not deteriorated at all.

ZJ rear shocks will work fine on the rear of a small lifted MJ (up to 2.5") by pressing out the upper bar pin. I ran them for years on my MJ.

Totally. Check this out: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387 But the Unichip is gone now (it had intermittent CPS signal failure internally). I have the non-adjustable Sharp roller rockers in hand. Before installing, I think now maybe I'll wait a bit and see how the new Edelbrock head pans out.

Just ordered an assortment on Ebay HERE

That's a good idea. :idea: I never knew they existed. Just the thing needed for the dark driver's firewall fuse panel.

Should be. I didn't read the Edelbrock description page very thoroughly, but don't remember seeing anything about aluminum.

You must be a Coastie Warrant? From your destinations and signature, I got a clue. :yes:

Meh, basically a cast iron head with bigger valves. At $1900 I'd spend $100 more and go with the Hesco alloy head. It's already outgrown it's growing pains and has proven reliability, unlike the new Edelbrock head. But it's good to see new go-fast products being developed for the 4.0 I6.

The question was whether or not the Blazer lamps were ever offered as optional factory lamps. They were. Just like the Marshal, Hella, and the ROL lamps. AMC/Mopar/Chrysler never manufactured any of them, but they all carried a factory part number. Same thing applies to headlamps.

That's nice, but it has nothing to do with the OP's questions.

Blazer Factory Lights (Courtesy of Strokermjcomanche) Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

ROL (Rust Out Light) Factory Lights. They would rust out sitting on the dealer's shelf.

I don't think that will work. W/o the spring you will have erratic piston problems after you remove the rubber cup. As I see it, you will need the spring to keep a constant bias on the rear brake wheel cylinders. But try it.

I went 3" originally and checked caster when done. It went from the nominal 7.5* to 5.0*, as it should have. You can drive around like this all day but it felt squirrelly to me. To get caster back to where it belongs (7.5*) is easy; just drop a 4.0mm shim behind each LCA. These are about $3.00 at the dealer, p/n 52003976. I also replaced the stock MJ LCAs with the beefier WJ LCAs at the same time. The lift caused about a 1/2" axle shift, so I went with an adjustable track bar to bring it back to center. It drives and handles better lifted than it did stock.

Thanks very much for the site. Prices in Sweden look comparable to here. Most I've looked at unfortunately are too rotted out. That 444 with the aluminum Rover V8 is something you will never see here. :drool:

Looks pretty solid. Sounds like you have a good plan for it. :cheers: I'm curious as to the average prices in Sweden for clean Volvo PV 444 and 544 cars. I've had many of them in the past and love the damn things. Prices are going high now for them here and was just curious as to the availability of these cars in Sweden.