HOrnbrod

Sounds like you bought the wrong regulator. Which "updated" regulator did you install? A GM regulator? They are useful perhaps on a stroker to correct a lean condition but should not be on a N/A engine. Maybe if you hit it with a hammer long enough. :yes: I've had one mounted for years. They are referring to the larger 2-1/16" gauges.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/45712-mj-bucket-seat-and-dash-cluster/

I have a NOS set of Mopar upper and lower Mopar ball joints I have not installed yet. But they are actually Dana Spicer products. The p/n below on the plastic bag (701059X) is a Dana Spicer number. That number is also stamped on the ball joint itself. So yeah, go with Spicer. Image Not Found Image Not Found

I think it's time to swap in a full gauge cluster and dump the idiot lights. With a gauge you will be able to see exactly what the engine temperature is doing to diagnose it better. I'd also pick up an antifreeze tester, use it, and replace the thermostat with a Mopar stat with the jiggle pin.

I love the truck and both of you guys' attitudes. Very refreshing. Rock on! :rock on:

My rear disks are sensitive to even a ± 1/4" adjustment of the load sensing valve rod. I adjust the rod so the fronts just lock up before the rears in a panic stop when empty. Damn sure wouldn't want rear brakes with no means to adjust the biasing, either with the stock valve of an adjustable inline valve. But you can do whatever you want mate.

You go discs and you'll need neither, want neither. I don't know what the above statement means, but if you are stating that rear disk brakes do not need a some type of biasing valve ( either load sensing or a proportioning valve) that's not correct.

LIES! Anyone who believes that must drive a Renix. :D :yes: Jeep dealerships loved the Renix models because they generated so much extra revenue in the dealer's service department.

^^ Ah, the joys of rear drum brakes. :yes: You wouldn't have that problem with disk brakes. Now if I could only figure out how to get the stuck rotors off mine so I can change the caliper pads................. :fs1:

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You must have posted that same old drivel 472 times now..................... :shake:

GS MT springs on the rear, OME 630 coils up front, OME shocks all around. Overall 2 to 2-1/2 inch lift after settling in. Rides and handles much better than stock. The shock selection was the key for me. Tried Monroes, Bilsteins, and OME. Monroes too soft and wallowy, Bilsteins fine if you like a buckboard ride, OMEs were perfect. Plenty of room for 31" tires to finish it off w. zero rubbing. The stance is right for me. My last ever rear leaf spring question response.......I promise. :rotfl2: With Original Springs

:thumbsup:

Understand. There were a few Saabs around in Vermont where I grew up near Lake Champlain. Quite a few Scandinavians lived there, including me. When I was a kid we used to ice race them on the lake in the winter back in the day. The 2-strokes FWD Saabs ruled on the ice. You could rev them so damn high the RPMs passed your audio range. Lots of fun. :yes:

Well it is pretty common with modified Volvos here ;) Everything from Keith Black V8 too Mazda wankel but i guess the most common is B230 Turbo (Volvo 940 Engine) I had a 57 PV444 for many years. Converted it to 12V, stuck in a B20 with Webers, and put 150K on it in three years. Great cars. If you like 2-smokers how come you didn't pick up a Saab? Had a few of those too with the three cylinder 850cc engine. Prices and parts should be reasonable for them in Sweden, si?

Agree with the tranny mount possibility. Also, did he reuse the old motor mounts? Did you check all the mount bolts to make sure they are tight and torqued?

Year and engine in your MJ?

The right wiper arm doesn't clear the cowl hood lip with either the old prop rod or the struts. I just keep the wiper arm off and in the cab all the time unless it rains then I stick it back on. I've grown used to it and it's worth it to be able to open the hood all the way. .

Don't use aluminum pop rivets like that guy did or you'll be replacing them later with stainless.

As Lee lets me know every time I stop in. :yes: Are you from Birmingham? :thumbsup: No, just up north a bit in Marshall county.

As Lee lets me know every time I stop in. :yes:

I don't consider an additional 13 horsepower to be pretty amazing. Hard to say if AMC could have managed the same feat in three additional years or not. They did develop the motor itself in just over two years. The 13 additional HP isn't amazing by itself, but when you consider the much better flow characteristics and the 100% reliability improvement over AMC's cobbled together Renix kludge system, that's amazing.

:yes: Yep. Most every day. Not a big deal, but a local guy purchased the Ebay kit to save a couple of bucks, and when you pop the hood safety latch, the hood flies up and slams to the strut stops unless you hold the hood with your hand on the way up. The Redline struts go up by themselves about 3/4 of the way, then are damped to finish slowly.

Redline kit:

J0181613, 4, FRONT PROPELLER SHAFT BOLT, SIZE 5/16x24x1.170 6034966, 4, (Alternate part for J0181613 if the hex head is too big use this one.)