Geonovast

Yup, that's where they ground.

You will have absolutely no problems with Jim. :agree: Dealt with him several times and had no issues at all.

If you've got good pressure out of the bleeder, then I don't see how it could be the master. I'm thinking your slave is the culprit. I don't have any personal experience with them, but I've seen way too many reports of aftermarket internal slaves failing in a short amount of time. I'm afraid you're most likely going to have to pull your transmission. :wrench:

Trans should be able to shift normally into all gears with it stopped and the engine not running. If it won't do that, I think you have problems beyond the clutch.

How does he know there's a "leak"? Will it hold pressure while running, and then bleed off when the truck is shut off, or does it simply have low pressure?

Not the only problem, XJ leaves are also basically flat. Even if they were the correct length, it would drop down the back of an MJ quite a bit. I think what may be being forgotten here is that SOA or SUA has absolutely nothing to do with the spring itself. It is solely dependent on where the spring perches are on the axle. Going SOA in an MJ doesn't even require you to remove the leaves. Here's a little diagram for figuring how much lift you'll get by going SUA to SOA. (where it says spring width, it should say spring thickness)

Reverse has no synchros.

The AW-4 has a bolt-on bellhousing, like a manual trans. It's not like most autos with the bell cast with the casing.

Makes sense... Isn't that the entire point of having the O2 sensor?

Once I got comfortable with the gearing in my first XJ and got good at feathering the throttle, I almost always shifted without the clutch. Unless I was in bad traffic, it was only used for starting out.

Possible but incredibly unlikely. The 2.5 uses a tensioner for the timing chain, and if he didn't replace it when he did the first "rebuild", and it was worn out, it could have jumped a tooth. There is no reason to rebuild the motor just to reset the timing chain.

When I went from a 2wd AX-4 to a 4wd AX-5/NP 207, I had to shorten my driveshaft by 11 inches.

I haven't seen any yet that even made me chuckle. :dunce:

What would be great is a tag-based filter system, where each new thread started would have to apply certain tags to the thread (2wd, 4wd, 2wd->4wd, 2.5, 4.0, etc) if the post is specifically about those topics. Then when viewing the forum, you could set a filter to only see the posts with certain tags. Yes, the search function can do something kinda similar, but it's clumsy, and dependent on how people title their posts. Something tells me the software does not support anything like that.. :redX:

I think your easiest option would be an AX-4 or AX-5 swap, if you don't mind going to manual.

It can run if it's off a bit. I haven't had one run with the dizzy off a tooth, but I have had one run with the timing gear off a tooth.

I don't know if there are any differences between spiders with the different carriers, I doubt there is, but I know C-clip side gears and non-C-clip side gears are definitely different.

The linkage issue is that the BA 10/5 and AX-15 used different bracketry, so that's why you need the new stuff from the donor, no issues with clocking. AFAIK the 74 CJ 304 bushing is going to have the correct ID and OD. You MUST use your current flywheel. You cannot use a 95 (HO) flywheel in an 87 (Renix). The clutch itself won't have a problem, but it's moot since your truck will not run. The windows for the CPS are different between Renix and HO. Your current clutch and PP will also work, although if you can afford it, it might not be a bad idea to change it out anyway if it's showing any kinds of wear. You have to use the fork from the XJ, your MJ is currently and internal slave and doesn't have a fork. You need the AX-15 trans crossmember. The AX-15 crossmember has a dip in the middle for the mount, and using a Pukey/AX-5/AW-4 crossmember will raise your trans up a bit, which would tuck the trans up higher and mess up your U-joints. Your driveshafts are good as the BA 10/5 and AX-15 are the same length.

You did, I noticed that a few years ago.

Our engines were designed for one spark. They are not racing engines, you will gain nothing by putting expensive plugs in, and you may even end up harming the motor in the long term. NGK or Champion Copper plugs. Shouldn't run ya more than $15 for a full set.

Not from the factory they didn't. If yours was that way when you got it, then someone had already done the swap. The only year the MJ got a factory external was 86.

You'll need an AX-15 crossmember, and AX-15 XJ/MJ 4wd linkages. BA 10/5 and AX-15 are the same length, so your driveshafts will be fine. Since the AX-15 is an 89, the pilot bearing will be the same size as the BA 10/5. You might want to consider replacing the torx bolts on the top of the bellhousing. It'll run you like $2 and if you ever have to yank the trans again, you'll thank yourself.

I see one listed on RockAuto. :dunno: Jeep > 1990 > Comanche > 2.5 150cid L4 > Body:Interior > Accelerator Cable > ATP Part # Y1161

If yours is a build date of 4/90, it's not a 91. It's a 90. If you need verification of what cable you need, count your injectors... 86-90 2.5s were TBI, with one injector, 91+ was MPFI, with 4 injectors.