Geonovast

That and the accidental 5-6 inches of lift...

A 4 cylinder tach on a 6 cylinder will read 1.5 times actual RPM. A 6 cylinder tach on a 4 cylinder will read 2/3rds of actual RPM.

The bellhousing bolt pattern doesn't look right for the 4.0 or 2.5. I believe 94+ ZJs with the 4.0 had a 42RE, but I don't think that one would fit. And even if it did, it'd probably be a PITA to get to work. Plus the 42RE isn't the best auto out there, and that sucker's only 2wd. You'll be better off finding an AW-4.

AFAIK the only way to get the mileage on the 97+ clusters changed is at a dealer.

Gearing, gearing, gearing.

AX-15 supposedly gets 10W-30, 231 gets ATF. Reasonably sure the 242 does as well.

XJ shackles will fit, and should drop you down roughly an inch. Should be fine as long as you don't flex it out much after that, as it is physically possible to flip an XJ shackle on an MJ spring. ZJ rear coils on your MJ should drop it 2 inches + depending on which motor you have. Only MJ I ever saw it done on was a 2wd 4 cylinder, and it settled down to about 2 inches. Make sure you do a toe alignment after any height change on the front.

It'll work.

Shortbed and Longbed used different hitches. I believe jimoshel has the dimensions for one of them.

My 91 4.0 did something similar to me. The slides weren't hard to move, but it always blew hot on defroster. Turned out to be a cracked vacuum line running to the blimp in the bumper.

YJ shifter in an XJ trans?

Aduuuur I've seen products that made more sense on kaleco.

AFAIK the only difference is the TPS, and even then an auto TPS should work on a manual, but not the other way. The TB itself should be the same.

Sound very similar to what happened to my brother's XJ after a motor swap. There are 4 bolts that hold the bellhousing to the motor, the top two were in and a tad loose, the bottom left was gone and the bottom right was almost completely out. This causes where the motor and trans meet to start to pull apart, drop down, and makes both the starter and trans input shaft out of alignment. It will make it hard to start with a rattling sound, and make it damn near impossible to use the clutch. It also causes a good amount of damage to the clutch, trans, and starter if left that way. Check all 4 of those bolts and make sure they're nice and tight. Also... just an FYI (and being a bit nit-picky), the Jeep 4.0 is not a V6. It is an inline 6.

I don't think it needs a complete rebuild. Sounds to me like the shift arm may be cracked.

Machining that snout would be an incredibly small percentage of the money that should be spent on a stroker. Stroking a 4.0 is something you don't do cheaply or half-assedly if you expect it to last any amount of time, or even work.

The older 258 cranks will work, but the snout has to be machined down to fit the harmonic balancer for the serpentine belt. Also, there are lightweight and heavyweight 258 cranks. I'm not sure what vehicles had which, or which one is better for the stroker.

258 was used in the YJ up through 1990. They have the snout already machined for a serpentine belt too.

Maybe it only takes measurements with the prefix milli...

Multimeter leads are pretty universal.

Best way to disable the ignition is to unplug the coil and the CPS. unplugging the CPS will also disable the injectors, so you won't be spraying gas into the cylinders while doing this.

2.5 did use the AW-4, with a different bellhousing. Do you have a picture of the bell?

Got placed at a job today, once the checks start comin' in, I'll be overpaying for some stickers.

All the timing is controlled by the computer, so really the only thing mechanical that can screw up your timing is a broken chain, and if that happens, timing is the least of your concerns. I'm betting it's either 1. That you're in an area that needs the high alt CPS, or there's something wrong with the replacement you got (not uncommon).