Geonovast

4wd and 2wd used the same control arm bushings, I believe for all years.

I, for one, am glad threads like that go away. Crap like that is one of the biggest reasons most of the forums out there, for anything, suck.

Do not jack up the truck at all. Not by the frame, not by the axle. It must be sitting at driving stance.

Why not?

After reading this I don't know if this will be worth it or not. It would be REALLY nice to have 2 sections of the classifieds. Parts and Complete Vehicles. :brows: But if they are a real headache, no sense in doubling the headache. :dunno: :wall: It used to be just classifieds... then it got broken up into the three sections.

A bad CPS will also cause no injector pulse. Do you have spark?

Correct, the CJ bushing is only for putting a 92+ AX-15 behind an 87-91 4.0. You won't need it. You will need the AX-15 trans crossmember and trans mount. If it's 4wd, you'll need the AX-15 4wd shift linkages. Your current clutch master cylinder and pedals will work. Those weren't changed.

Most of the gearing "differences" comes from people rounding differently. Dana 35 "3.55" gear tooth count is 39 on the ring, 11 on the pinion. 39/11 = 3.545454545454..... Some round up to 3.55, some round down to 3.54. AFAIK, the Dana 30(HP & LP), D35, and 8.25 all have the same tooth counts for 3.55. Most 4.10 and 4.11 difference I don't understand, since most of our Jeep axles are 41 ring / 10 pinion. 41/10 = 4.10 exactly, so no rounding. The D44 however is actually different, at 45/11 = 4.090909 and 46/13 = 3.53846. http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog ... inion.html

The 4.0/AW-4 front shaft is about and inch longer than the 4.0/5 speed front shaft.

Just tryin to save the OP one of the biggest headaches these things can cause. :cheers:

Not trying to be harsh here, just warding off confusion. The CPS is not held in with torx bolts. They are standard hex head, 11mm shoulder bolts. The torx bolts at the top of the bellhousing on a 4.0 are holding the bellhousing to the block.

The problem is obviously that Geek Squad touched it. I wouldn't be surprised if the computer was, had they not touched it. I personally have extremely poor experience with geek squad, and know of nobody who has had a good experience with them. "New Computer Setups" are a scam. Any computer is ready to go straight from the manufacturer. It doesn't take much, or a genius, to even install Windows 7 and some drivers from a CD. You literally put the CD/DVD in and follow directions. The "New Computer Setup" is nothing more than them installing a ton of bloatware to slow down the computer.

Changing the color of links is something you can do in your browser settings.

Every XJ/MJ came with both the shifter hole and the 4wd lever hole already cut out. If they were unused, they were simply plated off.

What ratio is the axle now and what ratio are you going to? What difference does that make, Don? The pinion gear is missing a chunk and the carrier is cracked... Regearing = new gears = easy chance to get new carrier, especially since the D44 has a carrier break..

That is an incredible price for a 44. Jump on it before it's gone or the owner comes to his senses. A disco is short for a central axle disconnect. A vacuum system to disengage the passenger side axle shaft on the Dana 30 front axle when in 2wd. It had problems (vacuum lines get caught off road and ripped off leaving you in 2wd) and two piece shafts with the larger u joints you want are hard to find. It is relatively simple to get rid of it and run a single piece shaft, though. Generally when I see/hear disco, it's referring to front sway bar link disconnects. The central axle disconnect on the D30 is usually just referred to as the CAD.

Unfortunately the only direct swap is out of another MJ. XJ axles are the same, but need the XJ perches cut off and new perches welded on in the MJ spots.

Not trying to talk you out of what you're doing, I understand that you can't do a swap right now, but thought I'd mention that me(and my family) has owned 8 Jeeps (6 XJs and 2 MJs) with the D35. The only one of those axles to die was in the only truck of those 8 that had a 2.5.

How does the older style provide "extra support"? All it's doing is moving the seal back further so that it has to seal against the yoke itself. It's not actually holding the yoke up.

Easiest way to deal with the rear driveshaft is to have your 2wd one cut down to the correct length. I paid $102 for mine, and it included the cut, balance, paint, and two new spicer U-joints installed. It's going to be a pain to get all of the parts separately. If you can find yourself a junked XJ that has a 4.0/auto/4wd, and just get the whole truck, it will make your job 1000% easier.

5 days and nobody once tried to talk to him? Really?

Sounds like you lost a bolt....

Could also be an oil filter adapter O-ring.

I seriously doubt the cost of the parts is going to be included in their labor quote.