Geonovast

It will affect driveshaft length, but that shouldn't be an issue if you haven't already located a rear driveshaft/had yours shortened

And that's pretty close to the old coil?

I think O'reillys might test coils. What kind of resistances are you getting on the new coil?

Maybe the plug connection was just loose? Have you put it back into see if it would fire again?

You're using the rubber gasket, yes?

50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is supposed to put PB to shame. Have you tried tapping the caps with a rubber mallet to try to shock them loose?

Lock the CAD and forget it's there.

So it still had a 4wd transmission? Or did they bother swapping in a 2wd one so the speedo would still work?

When you're stopped, the clutch in and the trans in a gear, it can't whine. This is the point in the transmission's operation that nothing inside is moving. Sounds like it's your throwout bearing.

You mean those lovely torx bolts? Hope you're not putting those back in. :thumbsup:

You just turn the adjuster until it reads correctly. I believe it's set up so that all the way one direction is for a 6, and the other direction is a 4, but it's best to check it against one of those laser tachs.

That's Brent's ($500 MJ), truck. I've ridden in it.

When it's in the "outbox", that means whoever you sent it to has not read it. Once it's been read, it will move into your "Sent messages" folder.

The Renix ones are adjustable via potentiometer on the back of the gauge.

There's a much, much easier way to identify C-clip vs non C-clip. Look through your rear wheel. Look at your brake drum. Non C-clips use 10x1.75" brakes and the drum looks like this: C-clips use 9x2.25" brakes and the drum looks like this:

91 won't work with a Renix truck.

Yes, in fact leaving the axle in the truck is going to make your job considerably easier.

Absolutely NO differences between the 2wd and 4wd crossmembers. The only difference, when it comes to crossmembers, is that the AX-15 and NV3550 used a different one than the AX-4, AX-5, AW-4, BA 10/5.

Changing the distributor isn't difficult, just takes some patience and a good camera is always a plus. Get both motors so the distributor is facing the exact same place. When you pull them out, they'll turn a little but, so they'll turn the opposite way the same amount when you put them back in. DO NOT turn the motors with the dizzy out. You may have to change the key for the oil pump to get it to slide in, but that's all. Just keep trying until you get it lined up the exact same way the old one was.

I'm assuming you already have a 2.5. I'm 99.999% sure it will all work fine, as long as you re-use all your current sensors, and you'll have to swap your distributor in.

Use the axle and driveshaft out of the 94.

Ballast Resistor is a piece of porcelain mounted on the inside of the driver's fender. It has two wires running to it, which can easily be jumped together. Power to the pump is run through the resistor after start up. If the resistor is bad(open), then as soon as the startup process is done, it will switch to it, and the pump will quit. If your truck is an early 87, it's possible it won't have one, and therefore that won't be the problem.

Jump the ballast resistor and see if it'll stay running. It's a very common culprit for a start -> run a few seconds -> die scenario.

86-90 Renix 91-92 HO

Last time I got a tool from O'reillys, I was told to get it back "whenever". Apparently that particular branch didn't lend out their valve spring compressor much.