veritas4156

I actually think the JK width might be your best bet but I think the body lines would look horrendous. If you park an MJ nose to nose with a TJ or YJ you'll notice that the MJ is a bit wider in front of the wheels where the JK is fat all the way forwards. The YJ would probably be your best bet in terms of matching the angular body style though. Regardless, this is going to be a ridiculously long and tough project with a lot of fabrication.

Its bad, so I'm pulling it out anyway. If its something else, I'll post pics and let you know.

I assumed that was what they put in it since they said 130 Amp. I'll have to pull it out and check it out, but thanks for the heads up. Odd that they would mess up like that. I should go to my dodge dealer and tell them "Hey, my build sheet says 130A and this one is only 90!" I'm still on the original brake rotors, maybe I'll try for that recall too...

I already checked. Hmm... Maybe they made a goof on my build sheet? Did comanches ever have 130amp alternators?

Really, with a comanche, you'd be doing it an injustice putting a 2JZ in. 2JZ is great because it is small and fits in small cars (small ish). You have the space, run something big, or run a turbo 4.0L or a 4.7L stroker. Or a 4.7L stroker turbo

Really, with a comanche, you'd be doing it an injustice putting a 2JZ in. 2JZ is great because it is small and fits in small cars (small ish). You have the space, run something big, or run a turbo 4.0L or a 4.7L stroker. Or a 4.7L stroker turbo

All of those old 2.2L carb'd K cars and L cars used to diesel terribly. Mine didn't spin backwards though... Or at least I didn't know it did. Drove it like that for years and just put it in gear after I shut off the car and that always stopped it.

The only options I saw at autozone or advance or anything is a difference between new or reman.

Alright, so my alternator just seized up and I need to replace it, however all of the auto parts stores that I check seem to only have a 90 amp alternator, which is what I believed should be correct. However, my build sheet from chrysler lists a "BAFP 130 Amp Alternator". Does this even exist? If so, where do I get this? I don't want to downgrade because my alternator went out.

Can someone measure and confirm the: lwb,_4.0,____ax15-ba10/5,__np231,___d35= 50" I pretzeled my shaft a while back, measured for a new shaft (wrong) at 51.5". :mad: Must have had too many beers when I was working on it.... Now I measured from ujoint center to ujoint center with the slip yoke hanging out of the end of the tcase and i'm getting 50", which sounds right, but it really looks like there is no possible way that my old shaft could have been 50". Laying the two pieces next to each other it comes out to 48" and generally when you pretzel a shaft the metal stretches. Also, as far as I can push in the slip yoke, there is still 1.5" that hang out of the tcase. Is this normal?

http://jalopnik.com/5865056/the-ten-mos ... /gallery/4 Hell yeah guys, the comanche was finally mentioned on Jalopnik in a good light! Won the #8 spot on Answers of the Day for Top Ten Most Badass Racing Trucks of all time. I've always wanted to build a reproduction SCCA racer 'Manche but does anyone actually know what was in them? They were used in the SCCA racetruck series in 86 and 87, so that means if they used the sames trucks in 87 as in 86 that they were all longbeds. I'd assume 2wd. I can't imagine that they actually won anything with that 2.8L or 2.5L in them, and definitely not with the itty bitty smoke machine. If anyone has any information on these I'm sure everyone has been curious about them at one point or another.

Just got some parts in the mail for my MR2 from rock auto and when you order parts they send you a Rock Auto collectors series magnet that has a vehicle "Built with parts from rock auto" Number 58 is a comanche. Thought that was pretty cool.

Just had a near rear shaft made and they wanted the length from the center of the u joint cap to the center of the u joint cap because apparently some ends are different lengths from different manufacturers. Tom Woods wants all sorts of crazy measurements, on their site they have a 5 page guide to measure your shaft properly (that's what she said?). Shows their quality work. Other places just asked me for weld to weld length.

If you replaced it with rubber hose, you need to make sure you use high pressure fuel injection hose. If you used metal line and a compression fitting, you might have kinked one of the lines inside the fitting, killing the flow. In this case just buy a new fitting and try again.

They do feel significantly heavier than purolator/ fram /etc.