Geonovast

You mean you want one that monitors the actual speed of the vehicle, not just lock the throttle in one place?

You can't just bolt your gears in. They have to be re set-up, and used gears are harder to set up that new ones. Average gear setups run about $600. How'd you bend your axle? They don't just do that by themselves.

Can the internals be swapped? Sure. Is it a good idea? Not really. Swapping gears still requires a gear setup, and it's not really a good idea to put used gears into an axle they didn't come out of. Now, if the donor has the same gearing you do, then there's no problem, just swap the axles.

There is nothing wrong with 220 deg. 210 is "perfect" operating temp for these motors. Cooler does not always mean it's running better.

No, you can't just replace the rings. I would replace it. It's severely cracked and already pulling out.

Why would it be less legal to swap your current VIN tag into a new dash, so it stays with its matching truck, than to swap in a dash that doesn't have a matching VIN?

The Rubi front 44 isn't a true 44, only the center section is. The tube, the shafts, and Cs/knuckles are all D30. It is an upgrade, but not against tube bending. The D30 is pretty stout. You'll be fine with another one.

The CmPS is inside the distributor. You know, on second thought, the TBI 2.5s may not have one...

Ground strap going from the block to the firewall is common. The CmPS I believe can also kill the spark, but those seem to rarely go out. Have you check the cap and rotor?

The AW-4 has a separable bellhousing. I do not believe any of the Chrysler transmissions have that.

Could simply be a result of the comparatively slower throttle response of the TBI. Unfortunately I can't directly relate, as the only 2.5 I've ever owned is MPFI. The only times I've had my Jeeps rev up a bit during a shift was when the IAC was sticking, resulting in a high idle.

Whoa... no idea how I misread that. Not quite awake over here, apparently. Don't know if the TREs are different or not, but the ZJ TREs should go into the XJ knuckle/draglink just fine.

Indeed. I believe there were a few 4.0L/AW4 drivetrain combos in some of the very early '93 ZJs. I'd probably pick one of those up if I could find one with low mileage and in decent shape. I love my ZJ, but it's such an f'ing gas hog :D What qualifies as an early ZJ? I found a '93 4.0 auto with low-ish mileage. I'm going to go see it tonight to see if it's in decent shape. I'll definitely check for an AW4. Early 93s could also be had with an AX-15 if specially requested from the factory. Only time the grand ever came with a stick.

Should bolt straight in. If it's a different diameter, you'll need to grab the bushings that go with it where it bolts to the frame.

Does it idle high? Are you not completely letting off the gas before you push in the clutch?

The x100 tach was 84-86. 87 Shouldn't have one.

That depends. If you're talking the BA 10/5, yes, they should. The AW-4 was still 21 spline at that point. If you're talking AX-15, no, it won't as the AX-15 was 23 spline. You can swap the input shafts, if the cases are from the same generation... the pitch on the reduction gears was changed a few times, not sure on when that happened. The AX-4/5 was 21 spline, but it used a long input on the T-case.

For manuals: Put it in the highest gear you have (4th or 5th), and have someone sit in it while pushing down on the brakes. Then just use a big breaker bar for removal and installation. For autos, you don't have that luxury. All you're going to do is spin the motor. For removal, you can get the breaker bar on it, then turn the motor with it until the bar is either sitting against the framerail or the ground. Disconnect your CPS and any additional devices you wish to prevent the thing from starting. Get it in, hold the brake, and turn the key just enough to get the starter to grab, then let go. Should break the bolt free. This will not work for tightening it, only breaking it loose. Also, make sure noone's around it when you do this, and that it's secure enough to not simply go flying. I really prefer not to have to do something like this, but it's been necessary.

Manual or automatic?

The only wires for an AX-15 is the reverse light switch.

Me too.

In order to adjust the potentiometer, you need to remove the tach from the cluster. There should be 4 (IIRC) screws holding the front clear plastic on, then I believe, 6 or 8 on the back holding the tach in. Gas gauge needs no adjustment.

Yes.

AX-4/5. Definitely not an AX-15. Cast midplate, raised shift tower, and that's definitely a 2.5/2.8 bellhousing.