Geonovast

The Dakota option isn't necessarily just a -get-the-bellhousing-and-pop-it-in kind of deal. You're going to need different length driveshafts. You'll have to address the trans mount issue, and, if I'm not mistaken, there are pilot bushing and clutch problems you also need to address. Throwing in an AX-15 for it "not shifting like normal" is a little overkill. You could simply have a clutch problem, low/old oil in the trans. If you need to swap the trans, I think you'd be better off getting another AX-5.

The AX-15 will bolt up to a 2.5, but you need a super rare late 90s Dakota bellhousing to do it. The only 5 speed that came behind 2.5 Jeeps is an AX-5. The BA only came behind the 4.0.

Keep in mind you can't just dump in the 6. You need to swap literally everything over from the donor, engine, tranny, all wiring, cooling stuff and accessories. You'll also need to modify your rear driveshaft.

Another bit of advice to the OP. Remove your CPS before you pull the motor, and put the motor back in before you re-install your CPS. I realize dealing with the CPS on a 4.0 is a PITA, but doing this is much better than having to replace it after you're "done". Doing the CPS with the manifolds out of the way isn't that bad. It is very easy to break during removal/installation, and you probably won't notice until the truck doesn't start.

It's quite a bit different when the trans is already out. Maybe not for pulling, but when it goes back in, you're going to want as much wiggle room as you can get. Lining up the input shaft on the trans isn't the funnest thing.

This is an 87 we're talking about. The .75 was introduced in 92. The ID should be a tad over 1/2 inch. Not sure exactly, there seem to be a wide variety of measurements depending on what brand you buy.

You can do it without removing the hood, but you'll probably have to pull it back further than the prop rod can hold it up. When I yanked the motor out of my first XJ, I kept the hood back with ratchet straps hooked to the roof rack.

Not if you save him!

I started shaving when I was 15. I got away with shaving once a month back then, but now I look all fuzzy if it's been more than 2 days. I usually only shave when I have to look all schmancy, or when it starts to itch, which is usually about every week and a half. I would kill to grow it out where I want it and then take a pill to make it stop. Also, I cannot stand electric razors. I used to have an electric, but it died, and I decided to try a regular razor (bought a Schick Quattro) Love it. I'll never use an electric again.

What cluster are you using? The oil pressure gauge doing that indicates that the sender for the gauge is actually for a light. And if that's the case for the oil pressure, it's most likely the case for the temp sender.

I like the rake. Level I can understand, but nose up? :ack:

They're not supposed to be the same. The front just be pointing in a tiny, tiny bit. I believe the front of the tires are supposed to be 1/32 - 1/16th of an inch closer than the back.

If you read the link I gave you, it'll explain how to do it pretty easily. It's not a hard thing to adjust. There's no guesswork, it's all done with measurements. Shouldn't take you too long to do, especially if you've got some help. I did a toe-in adjustment on a co-worker's XJ once on a 15 minute break the day after I put a knife in my left arm. If you're hard-pressed to lift the front, I really hope you'll stay away from those spring stiffeners. If you're going to "fix" something that isn't broke, please don't "fix" it the wrong way.

It makes sense because of how the steering is set up. There isn't a single bar that simply attaches one wheel to the other. The draglink goes from the steering box, to the right wheel. The tierod the goes from the draglink to the left wheel, however, where it attaches to the draglink is not the same spot that the draglink attaches to the right wheel. When you lift the truck, it pulls up on the draglink, changing the angle that the tierod intersects it at. If you go up, the angle gets smaller, and the wheels pull in. If you go down, the angle gets bigger, and the wheels push out. It's a simple fix after the height change, all you have to do is turn the tierod until your toe-in is readjusted properly.

Is it just me, or does it look like the slave was damaged?

You CANNOT change the front height AT ALL without affecting your alignment. The fact that it's a solid axle does not negate that. You will have to do at least a toe adjustment after and height change - up or down. It's rather easy to do yourself: http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html Also, your truck is supposed to have a rake. The back's supposed to sit a little higher than the back. It'll appear to be more than it is, because the rear flares are further away from the tire than they are in the front.

:peek:

Sending units are the same between 2.5 and 4.0. They're not the same between XJ and MJ. I'm fairly certain XJ pumps are not the same as MJ pumps.

Flat piece of plastic and tiny bit of RTV. Just drill 4 holes in the plastic and bolt it on. Also, if you have an extra slip yoke around, it wouldn't hurt to stick it in the back, be better than taping a bag over it.

If you stand it up, drain it. If you don't stand it up, it's not necessary. If you remove the shifter to store it, make sure you seal off that hole too.

Because the front suspension on an XJ and MJ is the same. In the rear, they use different leaves, different shackles, XJs are SOA while MJs are SUA..

Any front lift/suspension parts for an XJ will work with an MJ. Rears are different, and won't.

I'm 6'2", and one of my MJs has XJ bucket seats in it that cause them to sit up higher than original MJ bench or buckets. I actually prefer the higher seats than the bench. If you're first in line at a stop light, you have to lean forward and look up to see the light, but otherwise it's rather comfy.

Nooooooooooooooooo Also, again, putting in used gears requires a full gear setup and is a bad idea.

After spending 2 hours scraping off 1% of the gasket on the pan, you'll probably end up buying a new one anyway.