zagscrawler

After thinking about what I wrote about using the unprotected switch for the ACC power I might be mistaken about how you could use buss bars to get voltage to all the separate wires. I will have to grab an old switch and see if I can test a few things. I'm worried about backfeeding voltage from the ACC switch over to the buss bar with all the other main functions, like ignition fuel system..?? Even without the buss bars you could backfeed voltage to unintended circuits without some fancy wiring.

I would like to think it was just the oil pump but isn't it driven off of the cam? The fast spinning makes me think maybe broken timing chain or missing bolts in timing gears.... good to know about the clearance though I have always wondered.

I personally would use the protected switch for the regular ON position circuit, the unprotected switch for the ACC position circuit (incase you want the radio and other small features without the comp and fuel system hot), and of coarse the start button for engaging the solenoid at the starter. To turn it off you simple smack the protected cover down and it kills everything like the stock set-up would. Also like said above if you cut into the wires at the steering column you shouldn't need to use the relay that came with the kit. I don't know the wire colors at the stock ignition switch so maybe someone else can chime in with them. There are a lot of wires there and they will likely not fit safely onto a couple of spades for the new switch. You could probably use some Bus bars from any local electronic stores (radio shack) to keep it all clean. Automan said it best I'm afraid. Its not a real easy job like a column swap could be, plus you get the security of the key again. good luck with what ever you do. :cheers:

oh man that's not good. Are these motors noninterference? ive never asked.

I don't mean to keep at it but you can have all the fuel pressure in the world but without injector pulses it won't fire either. If I remember right the same era ford efi wouldn't spark or pulse injectors if the distributer pickup or crank sensors were goofing up. Its been a while since I had to mess with them so I could be wrong. If you know someone with an injecter test light you could see if they are getting voltage properly. Good luck dude.

paradise I feel for ya man. I should probably tell you I am no longer in the same boat as you. I went ahead and picked up the Rail II switch and am now running my trans in manumatic . soo I have a 92 HO aw4 comp and unmolested harness, accept for the trans plug of coarse, if you need anything out of it or the whole thing. Just let me know. I admire your drive to make this happen. I gave in and took the easy way out. keep at it man and let me know if you need anything. p.s. I really love that shifter, so do all my buddies, my wife will be on board soon also..... I hope lol take care bud. Nate

sound like the throwout bearing to me. Try pushing in the clutch and holding for at least 10 seconds. if the sound is still there and consistent rev the motor up to see if the sound is relative to the rpm. If when the motor returns to idle with clutch pedal still pushed in it makes the same noise i would really think throwout bearing... If the noise goes away or gets a lot less it could, I mean could, be the clutch disc rubbing rivets or springs against the other surfaces, only reason i even might think cluch disc is also to do with you stating being able to start it in second gear... shouldn't really do that lol. Not with out considerable luggin anyway. LOL jus thought of something else that can help tell. get to a comfortable driving speed and just slightly begin to push the pedal in until the noise starts while under power. If the noise starts before the clutch slips it most likely the throwout bearing, if the noise starts close to the same time the clutch slips it could be clutch disc. gl snake

ouch.. does it still sound like it has even compression when cranking it over or does it have an easy spot or fast turnover rate (faster then when it was before it died) when holding the key in start for a small period? I'm assuming you mean my dizzy doesn't turn you pulled the cap and the rotor doesn't spin while cranking?

The 5000 pound mark seems very realistic at this point but I guess I was pondering to much on the 400 hp and boosted upgrade which puts the towing range (power wise) a bit more than that i would imagine. I guess you would just have power to spare on the uphills with that kind of power. The way the thread started threw me off i guess considering the truck can tow what you want right now..

when you say no fire do you mean you checked for spark and there was none or it doesn't fire the engine up?

Can you hold the distributer and feel it when crankin it? or just when its running?

ahh that never crossed my mind. I just assumed it was the 4x4 but now that I think... :hmm: .... :idea: the 2wd auto sits in the same place as the 4wd. Sorry bout those useless tips lol

No I was not just referring to a diesel only. there are plenty of gas tow trucks out there as well and they share the same platform as the diesel versions but with like you said a bit more up front for the heavy engine. Its the platform that worries me is all. I am not an expert on how strong the stock chassis is really but when I converted mine to 4wd I stuck some 35's on it and of coarse had major deathwobble troubles. I read and talked to many different folks on what causes and cures it of coarse and they all had different reasons and fixes. Most of the fixes were bandades in my opinion so I looked at how the road forces were being applied to the chassis and came to realize that all the important pickup points were on the driver side only. Fine I'm sure if you are trying to control things in stock form but needed to be strengthened for the large rubber it was trying to keep in check. All I did was build two frame connecters up front and boom no more dw's, The driver side of my chassis was flexing and I would have never guessed it. I didn't change anything else, hell my stearing stabilizer shock is the original and completely useless. This is why I think the chassis was just not built to handle full size duties from the get go. I think it can be made into a much more sturdy platform with a little care. I wish you the best of luck and I will fallow the build for sure. The turbo motor is just to bad @$$ to not check out. I know I am coming of as a downer so ill keep my negatives to my self from now on and want to wish you the best of luck with your truck.

this is good news. thanks again.

lol I sure hope I get to meet some of you in person some day. what a b*@$£ it is to tell when yall are kidding when in writing ;)